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Old 23 June 2009, 14:35   #11
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Then you'd better off connecting the outboard leg to the boat hull somehow or taking a little more time over the rough ground
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Old 23 June 2009, 14:47   #12
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As one who regularly trailers from south to west scotland I have never been let down by the engine bracket and a block of wood. I would therefore support Hightower in his comments.
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Old 23 June 2009, 15:52   #13
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I'm with Hightower - the loads on the engine/ transome at full chat make the trailering loads seem like bugger all to me.

Try looking at the engine when travelling at speed in rough water - makes me cringe !
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Old 23 June 2009, 18:11   #14
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Originally Posted by nugent View Post
not poly bush but works for me 2 x keel rollers from tow sure
That's it - brilliant!!!
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Old 24 June 2009, 11:32   #15
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Originally Posted by Hightower View Post
If the rams can cope with 150hp or whatever pushing a tonne of RIB in and out of the water, then a few little bumps in the road on a suspended trailer won't be a problem.
The difference is in direction. When in the water and underway, the prop force is all in one direction.

When trailering, the motor is being bounced backwards and forwards; something the transom normally doesn't see too much of in the water.

Plus, depending on how far you trailer, it's a lot more than "a few bumps".

But, hey; it's your rig. Not saying you should use one; just stating my reasoning.

jky
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Old 24 June 2009, 11:36   #16
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You get alot of up and down movement on the boat too though, like when you land after hitting a wave, the transom (in most cases) takes this fine.
I've never actually seen anyone using a transom saver in the UK.
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Old 24 June 2009, 11:52   #17
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Quote:
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I've replied to a thread like this one before on RIBnet.

I think transom savers are a waste of money and are a marketing ploy to get the boat owner spending more.

There is nothing wrong with the normal engine bracket if you have one or similar devices used by Nasher and Nugent.

IMHO, if your hydrualics don't leak I would be happy to tow tilted up on the hydraulic rams.

If the rams can cope with 150hp or whatever pushing a tonne of RIB in and out of the water, then a few little bumps in the road on a suspended trailer won't be a problem.
Oh I agree with you 100% Hightower.

If you guys would see how the motor moves at high speed or in rough conditions you would quickly realize that the movement on the trailer is very minimal.

Transom savers are sold everywhere around Canada & USA but has been a huge debate among performance boaters out here. Most don't use them from years of experience towing boats set up with large outboards.
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Old 24 June 2009, 16:50   #18
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I stick a block of wood between the engine and bracket for short tows and back it up with a ratchet strap for longer ones.
Haven't had a problem yet.
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Old 26 June 2009, 03:06   #19
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I'm with Hightower if the engine has hydraulics!
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Old 26 June 2009, 04:59   #20
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The high level theory of them is good, but I bet if you stuck a few relative position sensors on your trailer & hull, you;d find the transom saver may actuallty do more damage than an unsupported engine.

Bottom line is that unless you can absolutely lock the boat down onto a perfectly rigid trailer the flex of the trailer alone wil limpart a h*ll of a movement onto the extended leg of the engine, which through it's length acts as a lever..... If your PT is perfectly rigid, you have just added a big twist to the top of the transom...... It might work if you parked the PT in "manual" to allow the engine leg to move relative to the clamps, otherwiise I reckon it will actually make things worse.

I also go with a variation of Codder's lump of wood, but as I have yet to hit the dizzy heights of Power trim, the wood is a necessity for me, as the "lock up" mechanism wouldn't survive the first pothole! I lash the engine down with a 4:1 block / cam cleat system with a carrabine at each end that clips round the tilt pin - makes it ridiculously fast & easy to fit
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