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Old 24 January 2016, 09:33   #11
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Transom cutting question

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Originally Posted by Poly View Post
that looks like it has a "bulkhead" a few feet in front of the transom though?

I'd missed that👍 which effectively makes the transom a built in bracket
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Old 24 January 2016, 10:33   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
I'd missed that�� which effectively makes the transom a built in bracket

Nope..it makes it a cut down transom with an internal well to keep out the swell

Is that splitting hairs ?
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Old 24 January 2016, 11:04   #13
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Transom cutting question

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Originally Posted by The Gurnard View Post
Is that splitting hairs ?

Yup 😄
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Old 24 January 2016, 19:09   #14
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Ok here is a photo of the sister ship to the red one I posted. Yes there is a raised area in front of it with a drain system to allow water to drain out. The water line is below the three holes between where the outboards were removed. Plenty of outboard out of the water. These hulls float very high .

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Old 24 January 2016, 19:49   #15
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Originally Posted by Searider View Post
I think you'll be fine - subject to the repair of the sterndrive aperture being good.

My boat only has about 6" freeboard at the outboard.

I would also think that the weight in the stern will be much less than the 450kg engine you've removed. Heaviest outboard is about 300kg?

What's the distance between your blue and black lines?
Thanks for the feedback guys. Distance is 9.5". My SR6 and SRMN600 had even less freeboard and I did not ever see it as a problem. I have a Honda 150 ready to go on it now but may do a Yam 250, so heaviest OB on there will be less than 300kg for sure.

Here are a few more pics. One thing I need to find out is if the motor can be fully turned on either side when trimmed up (thanks for reminding me cgoing). The interior shot shows the knees. I would make a splashwell between the knees after I put in a floor. The black lines show what the cut would look like.
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Old 25 January 2016, 00:50   #16
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I'd imagine the fixed trim tabs might be superfluous too ?
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Old 25 January 2016, 06:17   #17
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What about getting an Ultra Long Shaft on there... would reduce the need to have such a deep cutout.
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Old 25 January 2016, 12:34   #18
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Chris, you beat me to it!

That looks well low to the water. I wonder - will the idle ports on your exhaust even be above the brine?

Next silly Q - have you already got an engine? If not - hows about twins? - they'll sit further out and so not need to go so low to clear the hull.....
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Old 25 January 2016, 13:24   #19
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Quote:
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Chris, you beat me to it!

That looks well low to the water. I wonder - will the idle ports on your exhaust even be above the brine?
9.5 inches is a pretty fair clearance. Mines (all factory spec) is a lot less than that and there's no issue with the exhaust idle ports ports. (see the picture on my profile). The engine-well preserves the integrity of the freeboard and that's where you are going to get into trouble. I've had a good few boats where the ports are just above the water and it's never caused a problem.
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Old 25 January 2016, 15:01   #20
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I would be careful cutting away the transom to close to the knees. The close change in section will weaken the top of the knees close to the cut out.
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