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Old 08 April 2017, 16:06   #21
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Originally Posted by boulmer nidge View Post
evinrude have got back said that break like that cannot be done in normal use . even seen the two other cases on here . will have to hope insurance are more willing to pay out


Have you looked in the Etec owners forum? Might be more ammo on there
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Old 08 April 2017, 16:34   #22
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Originally Posted by boulmer nidge View Post
evinrude have got back said that break like that cannot be done in normal use . even seen the two other cases on here .

Good enough reason to stay well clear of that brand of pi5h then ......
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Old 08 April 2017, 16:38   #23
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Good enough reason to stay well clear of that brand of pi5h then ......


I wondered how long it would take[emoji57]
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Old 08 April 2017, 16:46   #24
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Good enough reason to stay well clear of that brand of pi5h then ......
Sorry to hear that! But don't give up...plenty of stuff here and on line to back your claim up!
Just trying to Palm you off by the sounds of it!...Hoping you will claim on insurance.

Trading standards would be a next step....Warranty??...Merchantable goods...and Fit for purpose???
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Old 08 April 2017, 16:50   #25
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Have you looked in the Etec owners forum? Might be more ammo on there


Who's told you they won't entertain it, your dealer or BRP themselves, don't be fobbed off. Is the motor still under warranty?
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Old 08 April 2017, 17:27   #26
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Who's told you they won't entertain it, your dealer or BRP themselves, don't be fobbed off. Is the motor still under warranty?


Assuming you have insurance, did you take the legal protection option?
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Old 08 April 2017, 18:25   #27
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I wondered how long it would take[emoji57]
23 posts I'd expected it sooner tbh

I definitely wouldn't give up I'd imagine warranty departments are encouraged to save money if they can but I'd imagine when pushed they would have to pay up

One common failure doesn't make the whole brand lemons plenty of cars on the road have common failures.

With anything mechanical there is going to be a point where something will break ,the weakest link, and it stands to reason the same part will likely fail in a lot of instances
Outboard manufacturers are constantly trying to make things lighter so they have lightest in class etc sometimes they will get things a little too light and should be big enough to admit it and sort the failures foc

Hope you get it sorted and I'd definitely keep on the case and don't let them off the hook
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Old 08 April 2017, 18:56   #28
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I was with Kerny when his broke as stated.
Again on a New engine in exactly the same place on the same 60hp rated engine ..which was still early into warranty!
It was on a calm day with absolutely no stress ( why that should matter,to me is beside the point anyway!) other than propelling the 5m RIB...IT WAS DESIGNED FOR.
I believe he had a few shenanigans from BRP too although it was sorted under warranty in the end.
I'd pm him for info.
The fact it's the second time it's failed on yours only lends weight that there is a fundamental fault in the design/manufacturing process.
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Old 08 April 2017, 20:30   #29
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i will learn from this , i will not buy evinrude again . the engine was very good but i am always out with the same mate who has a mariner , same weight same conditions his is just older . the first time it broke it was on the bottom where the trim and tilt pivot . the second time it went through the hole thats in the bracket . i dont know why its there it must weaken it . the biggest problem is that you do not know its happened and it damages the trim and tilt rod which requires the whole unit to be replaced and bends the other saddle which has to be replaced . 2000 pound to repair an engine that cost just over 5000 is steep . i will see what my insurance say and if they will not pay i will try taking legal action .
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Old 08 April 2017, 21:09   #30
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i will learn from this , i will not buy evinrude again .

Looking at it, I don't think you will be the only one ........
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Old 08 April 2017, 21:28   #31
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Looking at it, I don't think you will be the only one ........


Aye! I'd stick with the brand that never breaks down & has impeccable customer service [emoji106]
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Old 08 April 2017, 22:21   #32
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Aye! I'd stick with the brand that never breaks down & has impeccable customer service [emoji106]
My 1yo son has one he has in the bath but it ain't much good for diving fishing cruising..................etc
But it's totally reliable and never goes wrong
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Old 09 April 2017, 07:16   #33
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Despite the transom saddle breaking on !Y etec. I have been very happy with it. The engine is not that difficult to work on. I would have another sixty in the morning. It works well on my rib. Other engines Jap makes tend to suffer badly from corrosion but that doesn't make them scrap.

I believe that the problem with the sixty is lack of support when raised one hole. I contacted osprey ribs about this problem and they did not have clients retuning with broken saddles. I asked when they raise an engine do they pack the gap but was told that the transoms are designed for the engine that is going on the boat.thus engines do not have to be raised

Tsm
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Old 09 April 2017, 07:27   #34
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i didnt think my engine was mounted too high but i am not sure can you tell from my photo if it is or not , i really like the engine just not happy about it snapping . was happy about them fixing it the first time but didnt expect it to happen again .
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Old 09 April 2017, 07:31   #35
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was thinking of getting another rib and using the 60 but now i wonder if its a good idea
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Old 10 April 2017, 09:12   #36
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i own a 2015 etec 60 on a 4.80 .
using the one hole up setup, and doesnt have any problem.
looks interesting.
questions to friens who had this broke isssue; how is your steering wheel stiffness ?
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Old 10 April 2017, 12:08   #37
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I had an unrelated warranty issue with my Evinrude 200. Mike at South Coast Marine was a true diamond, even though I did not buy the engine through him. He had to battle with Evinrude, but did get satisfaction for me in the end. Might be something to do with the amount of business he put BRP's way.
My point; it would seem to be the tenacity of the dealer that has a significant influence
Keep pushing.....
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Old 10 April 2017, 12:11   #38
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I had an unrelated warranty issue with my Evinrude 200. Mike at South Coast Marine was a true diamond, even though I did not buy the engine through him. He had to battle with Evinrude, but did get satisfaction for me in the end. Might be something to do with the amount of business he put BRP's way.

My point; it would seem to be the tenacity of the dealer that has a significant influence

Keep pushing.....


[emoji106] I've always been looked after by Mike, a true gent & will fight your corner. That's why I asked the OP early on if it was the dealer or BRP who wouldn't play ball.
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Old 10 April 2017, 12:54   #39
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It might be worth fitting a spacer to pack the gap imho some pics on here.... :thumbup:

http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/the-cur...rny-72630.html
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Old 10 April 2017, 14:18   #40
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I've been thinking about the spacer/packer theory and I can't reconcile it as the cause of the failure. The most force is exerted by the prop which pushed the gearcase forwards, putting tension into the top bolts whilst pushing forward on the bottom of the saddle. The exact load path is transferred through the various pivots and trim cylinder, but ultimately acts on the transom bracket as described. Under power the top of the bracket will tend to be pulled away from the transom and packer, thus the packer is not supporting the bracket unless you drop the throttle and the prop acts as a brake, as per my very crude diagram (Blue arrows represent forces).

Click image for larger version

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Also, the bracket design doesn't look like it is meant to sit on anything, otherwise there would be a flat section for it to contact the top of the transom, whereas it is all curved.

I could also go with a theory that if the engine is mounted higher, the top bolts are lower down the bracket so the bending stress in the bracket is higher (greater moment) and thus it may lead to a failure. Yours looks to be on the top hole, so there goes that theory.

It may also, of course, all come down to manufacturing defects in the casting which act as stress raisers and lead to fatigue failures. A problem with the casting material flow could lead to porosity in certain areas of the casting, which then lead to a failure. Can you get a close up photo of the failure, ideally one of each side of the split, with the two separated? A fatigue crack has tell tale marks and it may be possible to spot the failure initiation point, which may be a material defect.

I may be wrong and happy to hear other theories. I used to do this sort of investigation at Caterpillar, years ago and always love a failure to get to the bottom of.

Phil M
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