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Old 18 August 2011, 14:14   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by free View Post
Since Jace has not come back, I'll try to tease him out with a bit of bait. Does anyone see anything wrong with the 2nd exemplary picture? Even if the Pikeys hatch had been done like this it would still have leaked, but why?



free
Also not sure about the purpose of the bead around the edge of the frame in picture 3. I would have coated across the full face of the frame flange. However I would also have sealed the ply with resin (not relied on the sealant to do this) and would have painted the sealant on the edge of the hole to be sure before putting the frame in the hole.

I would then spend 7 days trying to get that black sikaflex off my hands cos the gloves ripped.....
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Old 18 August 2011, 14:27   #42
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My RIB has no wood of any kind. The only GRP is the console, the hull, seat, and anchor locker are all aluminum, a real hull material
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Old 18 August 2011, 14:29   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Selman View Post
I would have coated across the full face of the frame flange.


Most of the applied Sikaflex would fall through the hole, it should be along the center rib of the flange so that it is squeezed out evenly for a continuous seal. Given how well Pikeys hole was cut, some of the hatch would have had no seal at all! Also can't work out what the outer bead would do, other than peel off eventually.

The pictures look like a Top Line hatch by the way, not a Bailey

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Old 18 August 2011, 15:46   #44
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The pictures look like a Top Line hatch by the way, not a Bailey
Are you sure it's not a Viking? I'm sure the one I had to replace was a Viking hatch......
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Old 18 August 2011, 16:45   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by free



Most of the applied Sikaflex would fall through the hole, it should be along the center rib of the flange so that it is squeezed out evenly for a continuous seal. Given how well Pikeys hole was cut, some of the hatch would have had no seal at all! Also can't work out what the outer bead would do, other than peel off eventually.

The pictures look like a Top Line hatch by the way, not a Bailey

free
The Bailey hatch is in the deck by the stern. It's not the one in the photos although it was fitted to the same standard.

ee lad, tha can't educate pork
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Old 18 August 2011, 18:47   #46
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Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
The Bailey hatch is in the deck by the stern. It's not the one in the photos although it was fitted to the same standard.
That's a shame, 'cos the Bailey hatches are top notch and have a very good sealing system.
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Old 19 August 2011, 14:10   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
...and have a very good sealing system.
So does mine.....................................now:thumb s:
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Old 19 August 2011, 16:38   #48
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Sorry, the ones we use are quite good, not the cheapest though Bailey Marine


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Old 20 August 2011, 16:09   #49
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Another Ribcraft botched hatch fitment

Hi,

(Not been to Ribnet for ages but time to get back into it!)

Was down at the boat today (RC 5.3 purchased new by me from ribcraft) looking at the anchor locker which has also been leaking and guess what - exactly the same situation as Pikey Dave.... So this is NOT an isolated incident!

I see 5 issues with the way that it's been installed:

(1) The screw holes were not sealed
(2) No attempt has been made to seal the ply edge of the hatch cutout
(3) The Sikaflex "bead" was really thin. On the hatch itself I can see where water has been tracking from the screw holes
(4) The hatch was fitted directly on top of the non slip deck paint
(5) The gellcoat under the hatch seems to have been cracked when the hatch hole had been routed out so even if it was all totally sealed there was still a water access track via the gellcoat underneath!

NOT impressed.... When I got the boat originally the rear bung into the chamber under the floor was not fitted correctly (hardly any sikaflex) and it totally filled up with water when the rear well got full so I re-fitted that myself as well as fitting a bung in the transom! I spoke to Charlie in RC about the leaking anchor locker and he said it was likely grit in the rubber seal between the locker and lid so I assumed that was the issue... Have just been periodically mopping it out since then and trying to keep the seal clean (which is difficult when you anchor in sand). Ribcraft did send me a tube of 3M sealant at one point but I think that was to re-seal the bung.

Some Pics (not sure how to get them inline so they are in as normal attachments)

(1) - The anchor locker with cover removed. Just undid the screws and lifted it straight out. The Sikaflex was not well stuck to either the hatch or the deck. You can see where the sikaflex has been (clean line in the deck paint).

(2) Looking at the face of the cutout hole. Note the ply starting to de-laminate

(3) Squeexing the ply all the way round the hatch cutout results in brown water squirting out - it's pretty waterlogged!

(4) The hatch cover. Note the water track mark from the screw hole where water has been running into the locker.

Not atall impressed. The boat is great but it's just lack of attention to detail in the "hidden" things (as well as general lack of aftercare) that would really make me think about purchasing from Ribcraft again. My console is also leaking around the steering wheel so I expect to find similar lack of sealant in there

I din't have the luxuary of being able to keep the hatch cover off and let it dry out as I don't have an overall cover for the boat (have asked RC twice for a quote for this but no reply) so just had to re-fit it with some Silicon while I work out the next step.


Al.
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Old 20 August 2011, 16:33   #50
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That looks depressingly familiar I used "G" clamps to squeeze out the water & then left it for 10 days or so, I'm fortunate that I have a large shed to keep the boat in. The reason I started this thread was to alert other owners to the problem. Any more out there?
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