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Old 27 August 2012, 07:32   #51
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Country: UK - England
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Originally Posted by TRevor Lawson
Hi the way i get my boat (not a searider )to fit in garage is to move snubber post forwards on trailer as far as poss, then winch boat forward up to post again , i have a roller trailer, this shortens overhaul lenght of trailer /boat set up , have to put back befor use but only takes about 10mins.
Hmmm managed to miss your post. But this sounds like a perfect option if fit is an issue. As you say a few minutes and its back in the right place for towing. thanks.
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Old 29 August 2012, 09:49   #52
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Provisionaly sold pending confirmation i can actually get it in the garage


Well after getting measurements from Whisper and all the tinkering, moving, adjusting and best will in the world its just not going to fit and i have no where else to store it. Even tried the parents garage and no joy.

So my next task is to extend the garage.
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Old 29 August 2012, 13:04   #53
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how much extra do you need?, another option is to take off coupling ,gives about another 60mm( only two bolts) i also have to trim my engine right down to transom if it sticks up it is longer mine is touching wall and door Phew it fits.
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Old 29 August 2012, 13:10   #54
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Country: UK - England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRevor Lawson
how much extra do you need?, another option is to take off coupling ,gives about another 60mm( only two bolts) i also have to trim my engine right down to transom if it sticks up it is longer mine is touching wall and door Phew it fits.
Believe me I've thought of everything to try and get it to fit. It will go if i shorten draw bar and slide boat forward on trailer when in storage i think, just, but i still wont get the up and over door closed. It only just misses my 4.2 boat and engine. Im now looking at extending the rear of the garage with a simple timber extension and the possibility of changing the up and over door to two uprights / outward openers. Trouble is its not going to be a quick fix especially with the pouring rain. Im sure ill get there eventually.
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Old 29 August 2012, 14:52   #55
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A sectional door or a roller door will get around the problems you're encountering with the up and over door.
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Old 29 August 2012, 16:52   #56
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A sectional door or a roller door will get around the problems you're encountering with the up and over door.
We were having a measure up today to see what we could get and what we would need to do to change the door.

I think, as its an old precast i can remove the old up and over door, then remove the door guides which are bolted on. Then use the original bolt holes to to atttach two lengths of 2 by 4 and then attach said doors to them.

I'm also planning to lay an extension to the concrete base and extend rear using timber and corragted roofing. This way i know for sure i can eventually get a 4.7 to fit.

It wouldnt have been an issue if it would have gone on the drive and i'd have left both cars on the road whilst i did the works, but it wont even fit there without overhanging the pavement. Also given the amount of "scrap dealers" travelling the streets now id have concerns it may go missing.

Out of sadness today i decided to clean the 420 and treat her to an oil change.
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Old 29 August 2012, 16:58   #57
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Old sectional concrete garages are often available for a couple of hundred quid. May be worth seeing if you can get one of the same type and use some of the panels, frame sections and roofing sheets to extend yours in a 'cut & shut' fashion by adding an extra bay.
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Old 29 August 2012, 17:11   #58
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Country: UK - England
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Old sectional concrete garages are often available for a couple of hundred quid. May be worth seeing if you can get one of the same type and use some of the panels, frame sections and roofing sheets to extend yours in a 'cut & shut' fashion by adding an extra bay.
Not a bad idea. A quick search on ebay has revealled a couple at 99p starting bids, only one is local (two hours drive) at 28 so far but they want the whole lot removed for that price. I'lll add an auto search to my ebay account.
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