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Old 17 May 2010, 12:31   #31
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You're probably right on that. I'm strictly limited to 18' maximum as it will need to fit in a domestic garage, so can't even fit an A-frame, unless it's hinged so that it can fold forward.
Excatly how big is your garage? Mine (what became the Attaque before it became "Classic")fits with A- frame. Granted I asked West Mersea to supply me a shortened drawbar trailer for it, but if you have 5.7m from door to back wall, I can let you know my trailer chassis number, I'm sure if you quoted it to them they could make you another.........


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The Ocean Pro 5.0 based on the 'Attaque Classic’ has a 2.0m beam, and is rated for 90hp maximum. The weight also jumps up to 280kg. They have a picture on their website of a 5.3 Ocean Pro with a Mariner 60hp, with double jockey set-up.
Mine runs nicely with a 60, granted is only rated for same, so is a touch lighter.
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Old 17 May 2010, 18:16   #32
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Exactly how big is your garage? Mine (what became the Attaque before it became "Classic") fits with A-frame. Granted I asked West Mersea to supply me a shortened drawbar trailer for it, but if you have 5.7m from door to back wall, I can let you know my trailer chassis number, I'm sure if you quoted it to them they could make you another...
18' (5.4m) length exactly. Width is standard 8' and height is 7'. I've had an Indespension Rollercoaster 1 trailer (750kg unbraked) in there and the tow hitch is hard against the wall. It has a long drawbar, and the winchpost can move forward along the length of the drawbar. It will carry boats up 4.9m in length. One thing I have to watch is - it's an 'up and over' door, so there is a possibility the engine or an A-frame could be clipped on closing. I'm not bothered about an A-frame just now, it's something I plan to add when funds allow.

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Mine runs nicely with a 60, granted is only rated for same, so is a touch lighter.
The Tohatsu 60hp (2-stroke, 3 cylinder) weighs 115kg. As far as I know it shares exactly the same block and carbs as the 70hp, There is a modification that can increase power to 70hp by adjusting the throttle stop on the second carburettor from 22mm to 14mm to get full travel. Timing is exactly the same, but with 100% throttle opening. A stainless steel propeller will also add a little more power. Factory fit is aluminium 15" pitch. Throttle operating range is 5,150 - 5,850rpm.
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Old 17 May 2010, 18:34   #33
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Thats fairly unusual if true, most common block outboards usually have different reeds, carbs and most especially exhausts to restrict power output.
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Old 17 May 2010, 19:24   #34
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A stainless steel propeller will also add a little more power.
How does that work, then?

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Factory fit is aluminium 15" pitch.
What gear ratio does your Twatsoo have? Is it a 60C?
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Old 17 May 2010, 19:47   #35
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How does that work, then?
Increased power, not as in extra horses, but more bite in the water. Increasing the pitch combined with the rigidity of a stainless-steel propeller potentially adds an extra couple knots at the business end at WOT. Propeller choice from 11" through to 21"

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What gear ratio does your Twatsoo have? Is it a 60C?
Model is M60 (938cc). Gear ratio is 2.3:1
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Old 17 May 2010, 19:52   #36
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Thats fairly unusual if true, most common block outboards usually have different reeds, carbs and most especially exhausts to restrict power output.
I haven't tried this yet. Will only really be able to test it once it's on the boat, with the right propeller at the right operating rev range using GPS to confirm. I've read a few posts that it can be done. I looked into this with a Yamaha 40hp (model 40V) with the possibility of converting to a (50G), but it definately has bigger carburettors and a different exhaust manifold. Finding both is nigh on impossible.
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Old 17 May 2010, 20:15   #37
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Model is M60 (938cc). Gear ratio is 2.3:1
That's the one I have - it's a very low ratio LU compared with other 60/70ish hp 2-stroke outboards. My motor was on a 'Raider' fishing boat originally - a right beamy old tub of a thing. It had a 15" pitch prop fitted, which was probably ok on the Raider, but screamed its nuts off on the SR4.7, so I fitted a 17" pitch ally prop instead, which is a lot better. I reckon 18" would be spot on for the SR4.7. A shallower hulled RIB could probably run a 19" pitch, if lightly loaded
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Old 18 May 2010, 07:00   #38
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That's the one I have - it's a very low ratio LU compared with other 60/70ish hp 2-stroke outboards. My motor was on a 'Raider' fishing boat originally - a right beamy old tub of a thing. It had a 15" pitch prop fitted, which was probably ok on the Raider, but screamed its nuts off on the SR4.7, so I fitted a 17" pitch ally prop instead, which is a lot better. I reckon 18" would be spot on for the SR4.7. A shallower hulled RIB could probably run a 19" pitch, if lightly loaded
Interesting. If you're looking to upgrade to stainless propeller, Extreme Marine do a 18" for £200. It's shiny - get's my vote!http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-Tohatsu...item58837a80ce
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Old 18 May 2010, 07:31   #39
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Thats fairly unusual if true, most common block outboards usually have different reeds, carbs and most especially exhausts to restrict power output.
Suz DT25 / 30 was a similar setup, although the stop was brazed to the end of the shaft so you ended up having to change the entire carb.........


[QUOTE=spartacus;353061]
18' (5.4m) length exactly. Width is standard 8' and height is 7'. I've had an Indespension Rollercoaster 1 trailer (750kg unbraked) in there and the tow hitch is hard against the wall. It has a long drawbar, and the winchpost can move forward along the length of the drawbar. It will carry boats up 4.9m in length. [QUOTE]

Remember the quoted "will carry boats up to Xm" assumes hard hulls. Your toob cones & bow overhangs will probably increase (or subtract when it comes to trailer rollers) about a metre or so. That;s why mine is a unique build - I got a braked axle on a smaller trailer. Also got 10" wheels for a bit more headroom through the door.......

I also reverse in to solve the "frame meets up & over door" problem - and have a length of old carpet underlay down the back wall to protect the engine. When the casing touches, there is a 1/2" gap between hitch & door.

Sounds like your garage is about 30Cm shorter than mine. Which frrm memory is about the difference in length between a braked & unbraked hitch. You might just get an O-pro in there!
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Old 18 May 2010, 07:40   #40
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I also reverse in to solve the "frame meets up & over door" problem
The downside of this is having to have clear space all the way to the back wall of the garage. If you can get away with 'bow first', this allows some storage room alongside the pointy bits of the boat.

An overhead sectional garage door hardly intrudes when opening/closing, in the way up & over doors do.
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