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Old 16 June 2013, 16:51   #1
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Stormforce 750 Cabin

Hi Folks,

I have recently purchased a Stormforce 750 Cabin Rib with a DF300 Suzuki on the back, and have some questions for the guys that have similar Boats or Engines.

I have given the boat it's first outing a couple of weeks ago and had a few issues with the inline fuel water seperator. The bowl that came with the boat was made of plastic, and had perished over time. This subsequently cracked and drained all the fuel from the filter, and would not fill again because it was drawing in air. I have now ordered glass bowls from the manufacturer. Did anyone have similar problems, and are people now using the glass bowls? If not what is better?

Secondly, I was wondering about swinging moorings. What rigging are you guys using to connect the mooring line to the buoy, and to what point on the boat is going back to? Is it going back to the for'd bollard via the roller, or is it hooked onto the trailer towing "U" Bolt on the bow?

As I do have a fairly substantial canopy, there are lots of zips, and I would like to know what type of lubricants are used to prevent the zips from corroded and wearing? And where I can get them.

For the guys with Suzuki 300's, how have you been fresh water flushing the engine. Are you using the flushing ports on the engine or a tank of water. If you are using the flushing ports could you tell me what connections you are using?

I know there are a nice few questions there, but I also know that this is a great place to get the answers, and I also know that you guys like pictures so I will attach one of Sea Borne!

Cheers.
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Old 16 June 2013, 16:58   #2
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I stuck a couple of these on mine http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/...on-fuel-filter
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Old 16 June 2013, 17:02   #3
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Lovely Loooking Rib, Really Nice!!
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Old 16 June 2013, 17:15   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipper1 View Post
Hi Folks,

I have recently purchased a Stormforce 750 Cabin Rib with a DF300 Suzuki on the back, and have some questions for the guys that have similar Boats or Engines.

Sweet, is that Peter's previous boat?
I have given the boat it's first outing a couple of weeks ago and had a few issues with the inline fuel water seperator. The bowl that came with the boat was made of plastic, and had perished over time. This subsequently cracked and drained all the fuel from the filter, and would not fill again because it was drawing in air. I have now ordered glass bowls from the manufacturer. Did anyone have similar problems, and are people now using the glass bowls? If not what is better?
I had problems with my plastic bowls, more that they didn't seat very well. They had become very clouded and cracked. If the filters are well protected, glass seems like a solution.

Secondly, I was wondering about swinging moorings. What rigging are you guys using to connect the mooring line to the buoy, and to what point on the boat is going back to? Is it going back to the for'd bollard via the roller, or is it hooked onto the trailer towing "U" Bolt on the bow?
I'd use the bow eye (trailering eye) - use a drop line to it for recovering it
As I do have a fairly substantial canopy, there are lots of zips, and I would like to know what type of lubricants are used to prevent the zips from corroded and wearing? And where I can get them.
Are the zips plastic? If so, hose them off and apply a silicone based lubricant - I think 3in1 do one - any hardware shop
For the guys with Suzuki 300's, how have you been fresh water flushing the engine. Are you using the flushing ports on the engine or a tank of water. If you are using the flushing ports could you tell me what connections you are using?
Not my area - but you can't go wrong with a tank - bit of a faff though. Not sure can you run a monster like a 300 on a hose? Maybe just a flush out?
I know there are a nice few questions there, but I also know that this is a great place to get the answers, and I also know that you guys like pictures so I will attach one of Sea Borne!

Cheers.
Beautiful RIB - health to use her!
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Old 16 June 2013, 18:13   #5
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Are the zips plastic? If so, hose them off and apply a silicone based lubricant - I think 3in1 do one - any hardware shop
Make sure to keep silicone based products well away from the tubes though as overspray will mean future patches don't stick well.
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Old 16 June 2013, 18:20   #6
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Make sure to keep silicone based products well away from the tubes though as overspray will mean future patches don't stick well.
Oh yeah! From personal experience, trouser seats don't stick too well either...
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Old 16 June 2013, 19:09   #7
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Regarding the zips, will this work...?

Halfords Silicone Lubricant

It seems to be an easy fix in a can. Also a lot different to some of the search results I got when I looked for " Silicon Based Lucricant!"
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Old 16 June 2013, 19:19   #8
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Regarding the zips, will this work...?

Halfords Silicone Lubricant

It seems to be an easy fix in a can. Also a lot different to some of the search results I got when I looked for " Silicon Based Lucricant!"
Yea - not the other stuff!
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Old 16 June 2013, 19:23   #9
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You might find the zips will work better if you give them a spray with salt-away or the like before you lubricate them. Beeswax as a lube may do the job too.

Ref the fuel/water filter, it's possible to buy a 316 stainless body from the USA that you can screw standard Quicksilver cartridges onto. I have one on the Ballistic. It's heavy, but it's not going to go furry, and looks really nice.
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Old 17 June 2013, 01:37   #10
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On my most sensitive (or expensive) zippers on my diving dry suits I use wax. They sell it in dive shops. Usually bees wax or carnauba? Wax. Works well and doesn't have much side effects.

Jason
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