Stormforce 750 Cabin

Skipper1 · 16 June 2013, 20:51

Hi Folks,

I have recently purchased a Stormforce 750 Cabin Rib with a DF300 Suzuki on the back, and have some questions for the guys that have similar Boats or Engines.

I have given the boat it's first outing a couple of weeks ago and had a few issues with the inline fuel water seperator. The bowl that came with the boat was made of plastic, and had perished over time. This subsequently cracked and drained all the fuel from the filter, and would not fill again because it was drawing in air. I have now ordered glass bowls from the manufacturer. Did anyone have similar problems, and are people now using the glass bowls? If not what is better?

Secondly, I was wondering about swinging moorings. What rigging are you guys using to connect the mooring line to the buoy, and to what point on the boat is going back to? Is it going back to the for'd bollard via the roller, or is it hooked onto the trailer towing "U" Bolt on the bow?

As I do have a fairly substantial canopy, there are lots of zips, and I would like to know what type of lubricants are used to prevent the zips from corroded and wearing? And where I can get them.

For the guys with Suzuki 300's, how have you been fresh water flushing the engine. Are you using the flushing ports on the engine or a tank of water. If you are using the flushing ports could you tell me what connections you are using?

I know there are a nice few questions there, but I also know that this is a great place to get the answers, and I also know that you guys like pictures so I will attach one of Sea Borne!

Cheers.

mick · 16 June 2013, 20:58

I stuck a couple of these on mine http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/...on-fuel-filter

matt h · 16 June 2013, 21:02

Lovely Loooking Rib, Really Nice!!

willk · 16 June 2013, 21:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skipper1

Hi Folks,

I have recently purchased a Stormforce 750 Cabin Rib with a DF300 Suzuki on the back, and have some questions for the guys that have similar Boats or Engines.

Sweet, is that Peter's previous boat?
I have given the boat it's first outing a couple of weeks ago and had a few issues with the inline fuel water seperator. The bowl that came with the boat was made of plastic, and had perished over time. This subsequently cracked and drained all the fuel from the filter, and would not fill again because it was drawing in air. I have now ordered glass bowls from the manufacturer. Did anyone have similar problems, and are people now using the glass bowls? If not what is better?
I had problems with my plastic bowls, more that they didn't seat very well. They had become very clouded and cracked. If the filters are well protected, glass seems like a solution.

Secondly, I was wondering about swinging moorings. What rigging are you guys using to connect the mooring line to the buoy, and to what point on the boat is going back to? Is it going back to the for'd bollard via the roller, or is it hooked onto the trailer towing "U" Bolt on the bow?
I'd use the bow eye (trailering eye) - use a drop line to it for recovering it
As I do have a fairly substantial canopy, there are lots of zips, and I would like to know what type of lubricants are used to prevent the zips from corroded and wearing? And where I can get them.
Are the zips plastic? If so, hose them off and apply a silicone based lubricant - I think 3in1 do one - any hardware shop
For the guys with Suzuki 300's, how have you been fresh water flushing the engine. Are you using the flushing ports on the engine or a tank of water. If you are using the flushing ports could you tell me what connections you are using?
Not my area - but you can't go wrong with a tank - bit of a faff though. Not sure can you run a monster like a 300 on a hose? Maybe just a flush out?
I know there are a nice few questions there, but I also know that this is a great place to get the answers, and I also know that you guys like pictures so I will attach one of Sea Borne!

Cheers.

Beautiful RIB - health to use her!

Poly · 16 June 2013, 22:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by willk

Are the zips plastic? If so, hose them off and apply a silicone based lubricant - I think 3in1 do one - any hardware shop

Make sure to keep silicone based products well away from the tubes though as overspray will mean future patches don't stick well.

willk · 16 June 2013, 22:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

Make sure to keep silicone based products well away from the tubes though as overspray will mean future patches don't stick well.

Oh yeah! From personal experience, trouser seats don't stick too well either...

Skipper1 · 16 June 2013, 23:09

Regarding the zips, will this work...?

Halfords Silicone Lubricant

It seems to be an easy fix in a can. Also a lot different to some of the search results I got when I looked for " Silicon Based Lucricant!"

willk · 16 June 2013, 23:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skipper1

Regarding the zips, will this work...?

Halfords Silicone Lubricant

It seems to be an easy fix in a can. Also a lot different to some of the search results I got when I looked for " Silicon Based Lucricant!"

Yea - not the other stuff!

Nos4r2 · 16 June 2013, 23:23

You might find the zips will work better if you give them a spray with salt-away or the like before you lubricate them. Beeswax as a lube may do the job too.

Ref the fuel/water filter, it's possible to buy a 316 stainless body from the USA that you can screw standard Quicksilver cartridges onto. I have one on the Ballistic. It's heavy, but it's not going to go furry, and looks really nice.

Bigtalljv · 17 June 2013, 05:37

On my most sensitive (or expensive) zippers on my diving dry suits I use wax. They sell it in dive shops. Usually bees wax or carnauba? Wax. Works well and doesn't have much side effects.

Jason

Portnahaven · 17 June 2013, 11:33

Lovely rig -best of luck with it

. Big suzi should lift her nose up.
I prefer to use bow roller cleat to moor up with, as this cleat should be the strongest on board.
I flush my engine leg with muffs - the larger square shaped ones.

HUMBER P4VWL · 17 June 2013, 11:50

RE flushing.

We're on a swing mooring and never flushed during the April - Sept season that we leave her. Done this for 15 years with two engines, both Merc Opti's and never had a problem. Also, it only gets used once a month, so its not like we don't let it sit.

As long as it is flushed out at end of season when winterised, can't see the problem personally. It's been discussed on here before and some who are in marinas do flush, as they can, but no one really posted to say they had encountered problems by not!

Lovely boat btw

Skipper1 · 17 June 2013, 18:36

Thanks guys for your replies and the well wishes!

I now have a plan for all the zips that I have.

Regarding the swinging mooring, I'm still open to suggestions on the best rigging for this. Portnahaven I know you have a similar boat, do you ever keep it on a mooring?

Also interesting regarding the frequency of the flushing of the engine. Previously I was flushing after every use, but I guess if you were on a mooring or in a Marina, that is simply not possible. Are there any manufacturers recommendations on this?

Cheers

Maximus · 17 June 2013, 18:45

Silicon Grease is a Good Bet.. Used 'Spareingly'...Used it on my Drysuit for years no probs...Pluss no ''Overspray''!

Portnahaven · 17 June 2013, 19:52

I have been on visitor moorings several times.
I have spliced an eye which fits tightly around cleat (or post in your rib) with 16mm 3 strand nylon rope. For extra security you can pass a rope over your sampson post, and through mooring strop and bring back to deck cleats.
Quite a few moored boats (mainly yachts) also use shock absorbers to take up any snatching.

wavelength · 17 June 2013, 21:24

Quote:

Oh yeah! From personal experience, trouser seats don't stick too well either

+1 Mrs W did indeed learn that lesson when we (ok I) polished our SR4 tubes with silicon. Really shiny, and REALLY slippery. Didn't laugh-honest