Stiff Steering

Wightdiver · 23 July 2012, 07:43

The cable steering for my 60HP yammie has become very stiff over the winter. Cannot seem to find any way to lube it, anyone on here got any hints tips advice?
What type of lube should I use on the stainless steel piston that attaches to the engine moving in and out to control the direction of the boat?

Many thanks

Andy

HughN · 23 July 2012, 09:05

In my experience it is the engine end that gets gummed up with lack of use - especially if it is going through the pivot-tube of the engine mount.

A clean, a polish and a lube of the engine-end might help. Use good quality marine grease. It might be worth taking the cable out and cleaning everything and giving it a bit of a lube - but not too much or you could end up with hydraulic lock.

There is a risk that stiff steering mangles the helm end of the system - either the gear gets worn away by the spiral 'worm' wound round the cable or the spiral spacing gets distorted and the cable ends up wedging between the gear and the case. Either way, there is a tendency to use more force, which only wears things more quickly.

I gave up with mounting steering through the pivot tube of the engine mount. They always seem to go rusty and cause lots of friction.

I am sure there is a theoretical 'right way' to steer the engine if it is going to sit for a while - either so that most of that stainless rod is inside the cable, or so most of it is outside and exposed: I wouldn't like to guess which!

If there is a grease nipple on the pivot tube it is worth bearing in mind that it only greases the outside of that tube - not the inside where the stainless rod is going through.

Boats&Outboards · 23 July 2012, 09:27

Remove and run a 16mm extended drill through the tube. That will clear any rust, then it's a case of regular maintenance to keep it free, or regular use so in short - get out on your boat, what more excuse do you need

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007

Wightdiver · 23 July 2012, 13:48

Guys

Many thanks for taking the time to reply, Hugh your thinking is much the same as mine now that I have had time to look at the problem in detail. There is some very thick brown gunk along the stainless rod (piston, tube, whatever, not sure what its called but you get the idea) which I have cleaned off but one turn of the wheel lock to lock and its back again.

I will try and take it apart to night and see how it goes.

Once again thanks.

Andy

9D280 · 23 July 2012, 14:30

I tend to leave mine out, (hard Stbd Lock) for two reasons - 1) if the grease solidifies, it's on the outside where I can attack it with carb cleaner 2) It's easier to hit things with a big hammer than to pull them out of a small hole when it does sieze......

When towing I move it to hard port lock to keep the road drt off the grease film.

So far so good.....

Wightdiver · 23 July 2012, 14:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

I tend to leave mine out, (hard Stbd Lock) for two reasons - 1) if the grease solidifies, it's on the outside where I can attack it with carb cleaner 2) It's easier to hit things with a big hammer than to pull them out of a small hole when it does sieze......

When towing I move it to hard port lock to keep the road drt off the grease film.

So far so good.....

Good ponits, never even considered these. Once I solve the initial problem I will do the same.

Thanks

Andy

HughN · 01 August 2012, 12:21

I've just fitted one of these.

PeterM · 01 August 2012, 12:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by HughN

I've just fitted one of these.

I've got one too!

Seemed a good cheap way to stop 'stuff'getting in there and I give it a quick spray of WD40 inside it after each trip to keep things sliding freely

6 years on and no problems at all .

Wightdiver · 01 August 2012, 15:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterM

I've got one too!

Seemed a good cheap way to stop 'stuff'getting in there and I give it a quick spray of WD40 inside it after each trip to keep things sliding freely

6 years on and no problems at all .

Hugh/Peter Thanks for the idea I have one on order!!

Andy

BumbleAbout · 01 August 2012, 15:59

Nice idea - but he's sold out - I might have to use some universal steering rack gaiter instead!

Peter_C · 01 August 2012, 16:30

In my comp boat I went thru a steering cable and replaced the Teleflex with a much higher quality Morse. It to got jacked up when someone turned off my bilge pump and water was able to enter the cable. I found this out after towing it to the lake, so it sat on the trailer all weekend. Upon returning home, I removed the completely frozen cable poured ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) utilizing a bag into it. Beat on it lightly with a hammer in my vise and got it slightly moving again. Then at the rudder end I drilled gently into the aluminum housing, thru the cable housing and finished the hole off very carefully with a die grinder so as not to even nick the cable itself. Then I put a Zerk fitting in, and started pumping grease into the cable. Worked the now very free cable back and forth occasionally adding more grease. After putting it back into the boat it never failed me again and when down servicing the rudder, I just added more grease to the steering cable at the same time.

All steering cables should have a Zerk fitting, but then they would never get to sell more cables.

Wightdiver · 01 August 2012, 19:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter_C

In my comp boat I went thru a steering cable and replaced the Teleflex with a much higher quality Morse. It to got jacked up when someone turned off my bilge pump and water was able to enter the cable. I found this out after towing it to the lake, so it sat on the trailer all weekend. Upon returning home, I removed the completely frozen cable poured ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) utilizing a bag into it. Beat on it lightly with a hammer in my vise and got it slightly moving again. Then at the rudder end I drilled gently into the aluminum housing, thru the cable housing and finished the hole off very carefully with a die grinder so as not to even nick the cable itself. Then I put a Zerk fitting in, and started pumping grease into the cable. Worked the now very free cable back and forth occasionally adding more grease. After putting it back into the boat it never failed me again and when down servicing the rudder, I just added more grease to the steering cable at the same time.

All steering cables should have a Zerk fitting, but then they would never get to sell more cables.

OK so someone is going to have to ask, what is a Zerk Fitting??

Squid Boat · 01 August 2012, 19:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wightdiver

OK so someone is going to have to ask, what is a Zerk Fitting??

Same as a grease fitting here in the states.

Wightdiver · 01 August 2012, 19:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squid Boat

Same as a grease fitting here in the states.

Thanks, looks complicated, I will have to have a serious think about that!!

HughN · 01 August 2012, 19:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squid Boat

Same as a grease fitting here in the states.

Over here it would be referred to as a "nipple".

Just one engineering/technical term that releases waves of inner mirth that cannot be released in a serious engineering situation (despite everyone wanting to giggle).

Other such terms include:
"flange"
"bogey"
"annulus"
"shaft"
"gland" and
"nut"

(to mention just a few)

Jeff Hutcheon · 01 August 2012, 22:44

I had this cable problem after last winter layup, could hardly move the thing, I try'd different ways to get different light oils down the cable with no luck. Then fitted a length of heater hose to the end of the cable with a jubilee clip, and filled the hose with duck oil, fitted an air line connection to the end of the hose again with a j,clip. I then fed it with low pressure air and eventually forced the oil through the cable making it totally free and no probs since.