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Old 19 February 2006, 05:43   #11
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Have you used the old trick of trying to tighten the bolt yet?

Sounds a little strange but very rarely it does work. Tighten to crack the seal and then try undoing. Trouble with lotions and potions is getting it where you need it.....The thread. Because your bolt effectivley is upside down you are relying on capillery action to wick fluids to the point of the problem this of course is very difficult because of the position the bolt located in.

I guess the use of heat might be a good Idea, get a peice of metal (or grippys, Mole grips) attach this to the bolt head and heat the grippys with a blow torch or acetaline torch, this transfers the heat directly into the bolt where it needs to be and should leave your paintwork unmarked.

Good luck
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Old 19 February 2006, 11:11   #12
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Well thanks all for your sugestions, I can report back that after getting it all toasty hot with the hot air gun and giving it the good news with my BIGGEST hammer, it came out.

Impellor is now changed.

Many thanks.
Tim.
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Old 19 February 2006, 11:13   #13
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Heat the casing then freeze the bolt(nothing else) with electrical freezing spray (RS components sell it)-then do the WD /diesel thing immediately after. Diesel's pretty much as good as WD-I use it too-and it's better for a long soak as it doesn't thicken like WD when the carrier solvents evaporate off.
One hot/one cold will create the max clearance for penetrating fluid to get in and may crack corrosion that seals bolts in anyway.

Heating it again for a further few seconds after you've left the penetrating fluid on there to do its job will clear the oily slippy gunge off it so you don't round the head off.


LOL 2 minutes too late
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Old 19 February 2006, 11:19   #14
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Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swifty
Well thanks all for your sugestions, I can report back that after getting it all toasty hot with the hot air gun and giving it the good news with my BIGGEST hammer, it came out.

Impellor is now changed.

Many thanks.
Tim.
Good well done.
Sometimes you have to be a bit harsh on the thing.
I surely hope you went mad with the grease before putting it all back
Paul
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Old 19 February 2006, 16:19   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul F
I surely hope you went mad with the grease before putting it all back
Paul
Ohhhh yes. Pukka mercury stuff as well!!

It was a partly corroded bolt clogged in with a good dose of salt. Reading Nos's thread, I doubt if anything would have penetrated past the salt. To clean the hole out took almost as long as getting it out in the first place.
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Old 19 February 2006, 18:18   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swifty
Ohhhh yes. Pukka mercury stuff as well!!

It was a partly corroded bolt clogged in with a good dose of salt. Reading Nos's thread, I doubt if anything would have penetrated past the salt. To clean the hole out took almost as long as getting it out in the first place.
Shoulda been more clear really-you need to use a blowtorch to heat-or even better an acetylene torch then freeze the bolt.It'll crack the salt 'seal' when you freeze it. If you use an acetylene torch carefully enough you'll melt a lot of the salt too.
An electrical heatgun isn't enough-you can't heat a specific enough area fast enough.
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Old 19 February 2006, 19:51   #17
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The heat gun idea is probably a sound one if aluminium castings are involved, I learnt to weld aluminium once but did go through a lot of silvery puddles first. vbmenu_register("postmenu_134477", true);
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Old 01 March 2006, 01:50   #18
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In case you didn't know, white vinegar does a pretty good number on salt. I suppose, being Brits, you could use malt vinegar with the same end result; would probably smell better while cutting the salt, too.

jky
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Old 01 March 2006, 09:35   #19
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be honest, did the bloody impeller need changing after all that?
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Old 01 March 2006, 12:30   #20
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Ahem. No.
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