sticking down a seat

BogMonster · 04 November 2006, 16:29

Since I can't use the boat I'm doing the jockey seat. Which ought to have been an easy job but since I have to re-route all the wiring through the new seat base I'm now doing a lot of swearing ... but that isn't the query.

Humber supplied a bag of self tapping stainless screws, and a tube of Sikaflex with the seat.

What should I do to the GRP floor before putting the Sikaflex on? Its a sort of rough sandpapery non slip surface, do I need to try and smooth this down, or just rub the surface with sandpaper, should I use thinners, or just slap it on to the floor as-is? I'm hoping to make the second jockey seat basically waterproof so I can store stuff under there, so I can't just put it on with screws and anyway I think the goo adds quite a lot of strength if done properly.

Gray · 04 November 2006, 16:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by BogMonster

I'm hoping to make the second jockey seat basically waterproof .

Use superglue .5 mm away from the edge of the seat to deflect the water ...Biggles swears by it!

BogMonster · 04 November 2006, 17:09

If I have that much water sloshing around I'll not be worried about the seat

Nos4r2 · 04 November 2006, 18:11

How many self-tappers have you got?

BogMonster · 04 November 2006, 18:34

Lots - probably about 40 odd?

I've done it now, supposed to rain tomorrow so didn't want to leave half a job. Wiped over the floor and the mating face on the jockey base with thinners then once dry I drilled 4 holes (2 each end) as locators for the seat, put a big bead of Sikaflex 221 on and carefully lowered it into place then put the 4 screws in loosely. Drilled all the rest of the holes and put each screw in with a good squidge of Sikaflex to hopefully seal it and then tightened all the screws down. Seems pretty solid now and will hopefully provide some dry storage under the seat

New problem now which is that the engine instruments have a big harness with lots of plugs on and I can't for the life of me see how it went in through all the small inaccessible holes inside the main console... I can't even get it out and I'm damn sure I'd never get it back in again without taking the console off the deck

may be routed on the outside to save a lot of work!

Tim M · 04 November 2006, 22:31

How come you've got to rewire everything if your just adding a jocket seat? Is there any chance you can post some pics as I don't understand....

BogMonster · 05 November 2006, 12:44

Basically everything between the main console/seat and the engine (battery leads, fuel, instrument harness etc) ran across the deck in a big bundle right where the seat now is. Rather than just clip it to the outside and to avoid it being stomped on any more than it already has, I intend to run it through the new double jockey seat and out the back, thus giving it a bit more protection. Unfortunately there is a complicated harness running to the instruments which needs to be disconnected and since I can't even see where to disconnect it at the engine end, I need to take it off everything in the console if I am going to feed it in one end of the new seat and out the other. Once everything is in place running through the seat I'll be making a false floor to sit inside the jockey base to protect the harnesses and use the rest of the space for dry storage. Well that's the original plan anyway, subject to modification by the "can't be @r5ed factor" as always

Tim M · 05 November 2006, 13:27

Arr I see. Its a bit late now perhaps but I think I would have been temped to run the cables out of the front jockey to the starboard side and tuck them under the tube. You could have spiro-wrapped them to make them look OK and give better protection.
You talk about the loom. Are you trying to disconnect it from the control box end or the engine end. I can only speak from experiance of Mariner/Mercury and Evinrude engines but its easier to thread the engine end through holes than the box end as it's just a plug compared to loads of wires with things attached to them at the box end.....

BogMonster · 05 November 2006, 13:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim M

Are you trying to disconnect it from the control box end or the engine end. I can only speak from experiance of Mariner/Mercury and Evinrude engines but its easier to thread the engine end through holes than the box end as it's just a plug compared to loads of wires with things attached to them at the box end.....

Yes the console end - but having failed to achieve that, and also spoken to the original owner who rigged the boat, I'm going to try and get at the engine end (can't really see how it comes apart but I guess it must do somehow!) as it may be easier, he says he thinks there were 2 plugs on the engine end. So I'll be trying that, just as soon as I have remembered where all the silly little spade connectors go, up inside the console, what is it they say, a short cut is the longest distance between 2 points....

mdt · 06 November 2006, 07:43

Stephen

Can you not swap the back rests over form front to rear would give your rear passenger something better to hang onto.

BogMonster · 06 November 2006, 08:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdt

Stephen

Can you not swap the back rests over form front to rear would give your rear passenger something better to hang onto.

Will probably do that - I had thought the very same thing - but the little things like that are on the "to do" list somewhere below "stop the F thing exploding every time it gets wet", the first few trips will be solo anyway waited with bated breath for the next tube explosion.

I had thought about ordering another new stainless hoop assy from Humber because it is very nicely made and a big improvement over the original one, if I had realised they had changed the design I would have got two hoops with the seat but the fixed costs for shipping things here by seafreight are significant.