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Old 10 January 2016, 18:40   #11
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Country: UK - England
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Re wheels...

Probably the strongest with the largest tyres are the OE Zodiac/Bombard ones. They lift the outboard well clear of the ground and clip straight onto the existing buttons/holes as on a new boat. But they don't flip/swing up so raising and dropping can be a faff and in the stored posn they sit somewhat akwardly on the boat.

They are some daft price like 250 from Zodiac and often fetch 75-125 used.

I owned a set of those for many years and due to their weight/size always removed them completely after launch and took them back to the car.

I have now moved onto the flip up type and prefer the Trem brand as they are very well made and robust... I'm on my third set of the HD trems now and can't fault them. You ideally need the HD version which engages with the OE buttons on an Aerotec but you do have to drill 8 holes for the upper brackets.

Have a look at this thread where I was given advice then fitted my Trems.

Trem HD flip up wheels on an Aerotec
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Old 11 January 2016, 04:32   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
I was just wondering aloud really if they'd changed anything on the Aerotec.
Change the inner HP floor colour to black, widen the beam by 4" and sort the splashy transom/incorrect height issue would be a result. The rest is spot on.

OP - what engine did you choose?
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Old 11 January 2016, 05:36   #13
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They're halfway there on the floor Max with the around 2010 change to a wipe clean surface rather than the stain magnet finish of all Zodiac air floors prior to that.

Width... I have wondered if they found they were at the maximum before the floor becomes flexy?

Ah yes the splash... it was just too late in the season last year to experiment much but I think I will make that transom bracket with rubber that "seals" to the outboard leg as shown in an image someone posted last summer.
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Old 11 January 2016, 07:27   #14
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David
Is that the sticky outy piece someone had low down on the transom? Presumably to deflect upwards force of water when/where it hits the leg?
Love the boat btw... but the splashing is unbearable with the shim you used and my Tohatsu. Going to try higher with a welded bracket next Saturday.
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Old 11 January 2016, 08:13   #15
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Glad you are having some fun with the boat Neil. Yes I was meaning a semi-permanent bracket chipko posted an image of last year... with a bit of a cut-out where the leg sits and a rubber flap at that point so the leg can nestle into it. Hope he's OK with me linking to it here.

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/...pscd0bf026.jpg

I wonder if you are running solo? I found the splashing less with a second adult (on the seat) so the boat trimmed level... yes it is sensitive to outboard type too.

In truth I'm trying to improve it as something of a challenge more than an essential fix... once we achieved the best shim height for our Mercury we never had enough water to come over the floor even on a long fast bumpy run because the way the HP floor panels are made allows a good few pints to sit unseen between them and the outer floor skin.

Also I think it's a bit of swings and roundabouts as we found the Aerotec to be a much drier ride than others from the perspective of water/spray shipped just behind the bow which we've experienced with some other SIBs. The Aertotec seems to knife through a larger swell/chop with minimal slamming which otherwise can cause sheets of water to rise just aft of the bow on a flat floor SIB... and then on the windward side it gets blown into the boat.... at exactly the point where the Mrs is on the seat... and then I get grief!
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Old 11 January 2016, 09:18   #16
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I plan to make one like that following the experiments last season with the engine mounted deflector:

Bombard Aerotec ready for the maiden voyage (b@stard son of a Y Class)

(Which flew off and I lost somewhere in the English Channel on the last trip of the season - it's now keeping my GPS company somewhere out in the murky depths!)

But rather than drill yet more holes in the BAT transom I think I'll just make up an extended (ie lower) ply engine plate and fix the 'L' deflector to that as in the discussion in this part of the same topic:

Bombard Aerotec ready for the maiden voyage (b@stard son of a Y Class)

All academic at present as unless I find another Landy I won't be boating much!
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Old 11 January 2016, 09:30   #17
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>>>unless I find another Landy I won't be boating much!

You could break the habit of a lifetime and roll the boat up!

Re the transom mounted spalsh plate I did wonder if you could trap the L-bracket behind the lower part of the wooden motor pad... at least to trial it before drilling for permanent and stronger fixings if it looks worthwhile.
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Old 11 January 2016, 09:59   #18
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Errrr, right! Somehow 4 people, 1 rolled up BAT, a 15hp Mercury, a 25 litre fuel bladder, a huge Peli case, oars, rubber matting, dry bag, pump, transom wheels, ropes, food, skis, kids beach stuff etc, etc, etc does not fit in our little One Series hatchback....

And pump up an inflatable boat?!? Pah!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post

Re the transom mounted spalsh plate I did wonder if you could trap the L-bracket behind the lower part of the wooden motor pad... at least to trial it before drilling for permanent and stronger fixings if it looks worthwhile.
Yep, thought about that but it would not seal too well - just as easy to knock a new one up out of ply and screw straight into that I think.
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Old 11 January 2016, 11:27   #19
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>>> unless I find another Landy

Unless or until? I forget if it was that paticular one that was special or if you will always want a LR?

Re the plate thinking about it will be easy to make up a temp over-large transom pad to fix the bracket thingy to for a trial and then trim down as appropriate.
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Old 11 January 2016, 12:00   #20
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Quote:
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I forget if it was that paticular one that was special or if you will always want a LR?
Both.
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