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Old 18 June 2014, 08:10   #1
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Country: Ireland
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Sr4 with 15HP

Hi,
I'm off to look at an old SR4 today. It has no console just an open deck with two wooden seats. I have the use of a very nice 2 stroke yamaha 15hp. Will it move with this? Does it need to be long shaft?
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Old 18 June 2014, 08:17   #2
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SR4 needs a longshaft motor. Check that the transom hasn't been cut down though. The top of the transom should be straight and measure 20" high in the centre.

15hp would struggle, although I've seen a pic of an SR4 on here planing with a 9.9hp motor. Don't know whether it had a tow start to get it planing!
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Old 18 June 2014, 10:39   #3
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Thanks Downhilldai,
That saves me a lot of hassle. I have use of a SS Yamaha 15 so that wont work. It looks like I'd be better off buying a fully rigged SR4 with a 40hp and a centre console.
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Old 18 June 2014, 12:57   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donie View Post
Thanks Downhilldai,
That saves me a lot of hassle. I have use of a SS Yamaha 15 so that wont work. It looks like I'd be better off buying a fully rigged SR4 with a 40hp and a centre console.
Yes, great little boat.
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Old 18 June 2014, 13:08   #5
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A 15hp on an SR4 would just be bloody frustrating.
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Old 19 June 2014, 11:09   #6
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8hp-Tiller+Blocked off hull,thing planed on that

BUT they where only kids
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Old 20 June 2014, 11:48   #7
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Other way of looking at it - if it's a decent (state) hull at a decent price there will be plenty of used engines appearing at the end of the season......
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Old 23 June 2014, 04:23   #8
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Thanks for the help folks, I've scrapped the idea of buying the non-centre console boat and putting on the 15HP that I have. An SR4 has popped up for sale a few miles from my home so I'm hoping to view that today.
It's a centre Console boat with an old 40hp Mariner Pull Start. I'm guessing it's manual trim/tilt also.
Are these engines okay? It's a good price so I could always upgrade in a year or two.
Also, the tubes seem to have writing painted along the sides. Is it possible to remove this?
And the owner says there is a slow leak in one section. Is this a deal breaker or can a DIY repair be done?
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Old 23 June 2014, 08:25   #9
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I guess "how old" is the first question! ("Old" to someone like me is probably a different definition to some of the other forum members!). Have a crawl (use the advanced search funtion) to see if there's many (or any) posts about it. Also the older engines are arguably easier to service - if you know what you are doing.

...and if it's a 4 cylinder expect it to drink like a 60!


s for PT it wasnlt until relatively recently when "small" engines like that were PT. - even in the early 80s PT was still an opition on things like 70 & 90 HP. It will either be one of 4 things:
a) non PT with the "lift assist" rams on the outise of the clamp.
b) PT with powered rams, on the oputsode - there will be a hydraulic pump unit lurking somewhere inside the boat.
c) Non PT with the lift assist ram inside the clamp brackets.
d) PT version of c, possibly with two extra rams poking upwards at 45 degrees when the engine is up.

If you have c) , D is relatively easy to retro fit,
if you have a), turning it into B is mostly made difficult by the lack of donor parts (although I believe the Merc sterndrives might have suitable components?)

thing with b) is you end up with a mess of hydraulic pipes.

As you say, trading the engine in later might be a better option, but if you enjoy a wee engineering challenge, most engines can be PT upgraded.



A small leak shouldn' be a problem (you can get repair kits for 30 odd - but be wary if it;s at a seam as that will be a LOT more difficult to seal. - take a jar of heavily soaped water (washing up liquid) & a paintbriush with you to check.


As for the painted toobs - have a search - this has been covered before (and I can't remmebret the conclusion!)
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