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Old 08 June 2017, 14:51   #1
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Country: UK - England
Town: Tyne and Wear
Make: SR4 & Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
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SR4 refurb advice

Hi All

Bought a project SR4 on Sunday and would like a bit of advice about how to tackle a few problems.

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Deluxe model but I've removed the seating, steering console and bow dodger. It will be used for cruising / fishing and the back to back seating of the deluxe wouldn't have worked for me.

Transom and deck are both solid and the tubes seem in serviceable condition but there has been a repair at the bow at some point and I would like to know from those in the know the best way to make good.

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Hull looks ok, with a few knocks and scratches and a small crack down the keel. All look repairable fairly easy.

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The bow handle patch is bad with numerous repairs resulting in lots of glue and the bow has had a repair which has had a hypalon collar fitted ( for strength ?).

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I've taken this back as far as the tube collar becomes good and am currently removing the old glue with an abrasive disc.

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When taking the repair collar off at the bow I've had some fibreglass de lamination.

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What is the preferred way to correct this? Should I gel coat and rub back or add some glass and build it back up and then rub back before applying flow coat?
I would like to re coat in grey once the hull is sound.

Thanks for any help with this.
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Old 12 June 2017, 11:34   #2
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Hi Steven, I have a little damage to make good to my Searider's bow which has been covered up in a very quick repair by a previous owner - I am no expert but GRP builder suggests take it back to sound original lines and reinforce and finish. I am either painting or flow coating as I cannot flip over the 5.4m Searider and am working outside in Scotland. The guys at https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk were very helpful and are near you. all the best, Iain
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Old 12 June 2017, 11:51   #3
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Country: UK - England
Town: Tyne and Wear
Make: SR4 & Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
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Hi Iain
Thanks for the reply, I have been busy doing just that. Got half of the old paint off now and took the repair damage right back. Will be using light epoxy to repair any dinks then 2k epoxy primer followed by 2k pu top coat. I know all of the info I'm looking for has already been covered here in ribnet but it's finding it! Cheers, Steve.
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Old 19 August 2017, 11:10   #4
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Country: UK - England
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Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevem View Post
Hi Iain
Thanks for the reply, I have been busy doing just that. Got half of the old paint off now and took the repair damage right back. Will be using light epoxy to repair any dinks then 2k epoxy primer followed by 2k pu top coat. I know all of the info I'm looking for has already been covered here in ribnet but it's finding it! Cheers, Steve.


Just about finished this now.

Decided on light weather work paint and bought a console which i chopped down to a more suitable size.

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Did a bit of glass work and epoxy filling and was going to flowcoat the console but schoolboy error when i tried to apply the flowcoat as didn't realise the epoxy would repel the flowcoat. Anyway it was looking awful so sanded back and used light weather work 2k pu.

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Quite pleased with how its looking and after a couple of water tests i'm very pleased with the set up.
Bought a new Tohatsu tldi 50 which pulls really well but still running it in so taking it a bit easy.

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Using ipad to display wi fish and navionics and need to secure properly but today was all about testing and the wind was blowing hard down the river against the tide and i was well impressed with how it coped with the chop.

Probably sort the tubes out come the winter but i'm going to try and use it for the rest of the year until the weather turns.
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