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Old 11 March 2008, 11:52   #11
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Won't that entrain air into your prop once the boat is bailed?
I honestly don't know.
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Old 12 March 2008, 06:13   #12
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I'm only going by the nice "sooking" noise the self bailer on my Laser makes once the cockpit is dry (or as dry as its going to get on a laser!) The vacuum behind the wedge is always there, so it always sucks, whether water or air. Happens on every self bailer on every dingy......

On a similar theme could you fix a dinghy self bailer transom mounted like the pitot / depth sounder transom mounts, and stuff the hose down the wedge with half a gallon of sealant? Closing it would be irrelevant as the hose over the transom would prevent "feedback".

Still probably easier & quicker drilling for a trunk tho'........
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Old 13 March 2008, 15:02   #13
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Dinghy self baler into the flooding hull cavity?
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Old 13 March 2008, 19:34   #14
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Alex...did you try fitting a self bailer into the flooding hull yourself?

Andy
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Old 13 March 2008, 19:38   #15
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Dinghy self baler into the flooding hull cavity?
Nah. You'd weaken the floor doing that.

You could actually put a very small diameter elephants trunk over the bung hole It should drain fairly quickly-probably as fast as the bilge pump.It certainly comes in quite fast... I forgot the bung once...
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Old 14 March 2008, 02:47   #16
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I'm not saying this is the right way to solve your issue, just how I did it with the same boat.

I had a similar concern re strength while considering a bilge pump on a SR4, (I had a 60hp Merc). The set up I finally settled on was:

1) Blank of the flooding hull with a removable (screwed rod and internal bar) stainless steel disk. Rubber grommets cut to size for the two at the front of the hull.
2) Remove the internal sump plug.
3) Fit a bilge in the flooding section and run the hose through the sump plug hole into the boat and out over the transom.
Take the power cable through the same hole, run to the dash and switch it.

I used a whale in line pump for a water supply for a caravan fresh water supply. I found it emptied the flooding hull quickly enough> I kept waiting for it to fail after using it in the sea but it was still going strong after 8 years (as the boat got nicked it might still be working for all I know).

The benefits I found were no additional holes, no water sloshing around in the boat (wet skiers etc) as it ran into the flooding section via the sump hole.

As for space I also had a hummingbird depth sounder fitted in through the big hole, along with the pump, it was a little sore on the fingers, but it can be done.

The only concerns I would have if doing this again would be, if you don't make sure the flooding blank is water tight, over night the water will fill the flooding section come up through the internal sump plug and fill the boat, no real problem as the bilge clears it. Make sure your battery terminals are above the filled boat water line, if they get submerged they turn the inside of the boat into a battery.. any metal in it will dissolve over night, just another little experience.. .


I left the hose and power line free in the internal sump hole, if I were doing it again, I’d silicone them in place to seperate the flooding hull and the inside of the boat.


Only a suggestion, but it worked well for me for a number of years..
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Old 16 March 2008, 09:05   #17
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some interesting ideas here guys thanks...
I see that RibShop is selling a 70mm trunk kit.

As I am inexperienced with using fibreglass matting I was thinking I could use Marine epoxy to seal the hole in the transom, and also use it to seal the plastic drain tube in.

If that wont work, I'd appreciate some words of wisdom as otherwise I will have to take the boat to someone who can fibregalss!

thanks
Andy
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Old 16 March 2008, 11:37   #18
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some interesting ideas here guys thanks...
I see that RibShop is selling a 70mm trunk kit.

As I am inexperienced with using fibreglass matting I was thinking I could use Marine epoxy to seal the hole in the transom, and also use it to seal the plastic drain tube in.

If that wont work, I'd appreciate some words of wisdom as otherwise I will have to take the boat to someone who can fibregalss!

thanks
Andy
It's probably not what you want to hear but I'd take it to someone who can fibreglass. Holes in transoms aren't the ideal thing to cut your teeth on as it could be a major issue if you do it wrong.Start on something easier!. I still can't do it well...
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Old 16 March 2008, 12:42   #19
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thanks Nos....
will probably be expensive I suppose.
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Old 20 March 2008, 14:30   #20
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I was always told 'if you can masturbate you can laminate'!
Theres a guy round my way that does fibreglassing mainly making garden gnomes although he does do marine, he loves abit of cash in hand and has done loads of work for me over the years.
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