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Old 11 June 2007, 04:42   #1
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Some practical questions about my new searider

Bonjour,

I have just taken delivery of my new (to me) searider 5.4 with Brand new e-tec 90 and I reckon it's a nice job!

I am going tomorrow to have an a-frame manufactured at a local engineering place and want to know the best way to construct this and make it fold (single a frame with nav lights, marker lights and vhf aerial)?

Next, I want to fit a little bilge pump. What should I go for, how should I fit it? AND could I also use it along with a tank of fresh water for engine flushing?

E-tec questions -

How often should I check the oil?
Is XD100 my best option?
What should the torque on the main prop nut be? Feels a little loose
Can I leave the screw in flushing hose connector permanently attached?
Should I run the engine whilst flushing?
Any thing else I should know?

Searider questions -

Can I bolt stuff to the hull?
What is best tube cleaner / maintenance cleaner?
Can I and should I anti-foul the hull?
How best do I clean the flooding hull?

I am sure there is more but hey!
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Old 11 June 2007, 05:06   #2
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Wow a lot of questions, i'll have a crack at a few.

Folding A-frame - Seems to a be a real rarity, i've only ever seen 1 or 2 which is crazy as so many people have problems with height of garages and things. Us included. Just make sure are the joint that its locked in tight when its up or the rattling on every wave will drive you mad.
You might have some sort of GPS receiver to go up there too, and although they are of limited real use, I'm fairly sure you are supposed to have a radar reflector as well.

Prop Nut - we do ours up as tight as we can with a regular floating prop wrench.

If your keeping the boat on the water for long periods then i'd antifoul. Like a month or 2 at a time. But if you can pull it out and clean it every week or 2 then you'd probably be alright.

Harry
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Old 11 June 2007, 05:23   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowmitch View Post
Bonjour,

I have just taken delivery of my new (to me) searider 5.4 with Brand new e-tec 90 and I reckon it's a nice job!

I am going tomorrow to have an a-frame manufactured at a local engineering place and want to know the best way to construct this and make it fold (single a frame with nav lights, marker lights and vhf aerial)?
If you want it to fold you might be better off with an ex military a-frame that slots in and can be removed. It'll be a lot cheaper too.
If you're getting one made it'll probably need to be made in A4 or 316 stainless (expensive but won't ever rust unlike A2 grade). Make sure you can mount the steaming light high enough compared to the nav lights and you mount your VHF ariel as high as possible.
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Next, I want to fit a little bilge pump. What should I go for, how should I fit it? AND could I also use it along with a tank of fresh water for engine flushing?
If you've got elephants trunks then a rule 360 with a float switch would be enough to remove a buildup of rain/spray. If you don't have a trunk then go for at least 1000 gallons per hour.
You possibly could use a small pump for flushing if the engine doesn't need to be run while flushing but I doubt a small bilge pump could flow enough water otherwise. A hose is probably easier.
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Originally Posted by yellowmitch View Post
Searider questions -

Can I bolt stuff to the hull?
What is best tube cleaner / maintenance cleaner?
Can I and should I anti-foul the hull?
How best do I clean the flooding hull?

I am sure there is more but hey!
1) Assuming you mean inside then yes, just make sure you thoroughly seal the holes with sikaflex so there's NO possiblity of water getting in to the core.
2) Search 'tube cleaner' on the forums. You'll find a lot of answers.
3)If you're not leaving it in the water don't antifoul it. If you are leaving it in the water but are willing to scrub it clean every few weeks then don't bother.
Otherwise, antifoul it.
4) You shouldn't need to-nothing seems to grow in them.
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Old 11 June 2007, 05:36   #4
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You may find our web site useful; there are lots of products available online including cleaning products as well as information and advice.

http://www.rib-shop.com
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Old 11 June 2007, 05:40   #5
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when you say bolt stuff to the hull.

do you mean screw or do you mean bolt through.

either way make sure you don't put holes in the topside of the flooding void by mistake
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Old 11 June 2007, 05:49   #6
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holes and stuff

Yeah,

I had meant put a few u bolts on top side of the hull to strap and bungee stuff to, but i reckon i might scratch that idea now.

Seems dumb!

i do wanna maximise my storage and minimize the movement of stuff though.

Any good cost effective ideas?
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Old 11 June 2007, 06:17   #7
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build / buy a locker to attach to the deck, will also double up as a seat.....
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Old 11 June 2007, 06:49   #8
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Locker

That was the plan.

How and where?
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Old 11 June 2007, 08:52   #9
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Mine's got a small self-draining anchor locker which Matt H built. It's really useful.
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Old 11 June 2007, 09:04   #10
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Build one: (gives you the opportunity to get exactly what you want) 2 options. 1 - make a mould and apply gel coat / fibreglass (a pain unless you've done it before) 2 - build one from marine ply and apply flow coat / paint to the outside and job done. prob the easiest way to do a DIY job. (i'm almost completeing my anchor locker project built using option 2, i've taken lots or photos and will be posting a "how to" thread on here shortly) There is also another post somewhere of somebody doing a build on this forum, i think under the gallery section.

Buy one: http://www.leewaycomposites.co.uk/ or http://www.outhill.com/ there are more i'm sure

Improvise: Ice chest (cool box), army surplus stores oftern have large boxes, plastic crates....etc

Depends on your budget, DIY skill, if you can be arsed to build one youself, exactly what you would like it to look like etc.....

You going to post a photo of your new boat? The likelyhood is that someone on here has done / is doing something similar to you

hope that helps......
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Old 11 June 2007, 09:36   #11
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Locker

Hi.

Here are some pics of my boat. I will take more tonight, as it is undercover right now.

Any useful modification suggestions or anyone with photo's of any they have done?
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Old 11 June 2007, 11:12   #12
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That looks remarkably like mine apart from the orange floor. There's a guy on ebay that sells the same colour flowcoat as the hull if you wanted to change it.

I suspect that as it's an ex military boat it might be a good idea to get the original a-frame. It sits on the outside of the transom so there's a fair bit of extra room in there and it's a drop in removable one that's quite strong. I bet the original holes are still there.
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Old 11 June 2007, 12:28   #13
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Boat

I quite like it being grey underneath. Looks nice. Though the painty guys details would be handy

Where would I be able to acquire this ex-military a frame and would anybody happen to have any photos of one?
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Old 11 June 2007, 13:09   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowmitch View Post
Bonjour,

I have just taken delivery of my new (to me) searider 5.4 with Brand new e-tec 90 and I reckon it's a nice job!

I am going tomorrow to have an a-frame manufactured at a local engineering place and want to know the best way to construct this and make it fold (single a frame with nav lights, marker lights and vhf aerial)?

Next, I want to fit a little bilge pump. What should I go for, how should I fit it? AND could I also use it along with a tank of fresh water for engine flushing?

E-tec questions -

How often should I check the oil?
Is XD100 my best option?
What should the torque on the main prop nut be? Feels a little loose
Can I leave the screw in flushing hose connector permanently attached?
Should I run the engine whilst flushing?
Any thing else I should know?

Searider questions -

Can I bolt stuff to the hull?
What is best tube cleaner / maintenance cleaner?
Can I and should I anti-foul the hull?
How best do I clean the flooding hull?

I am sure there is more but hey!
Congratulations, I have the same combo and it's fantastic.

The ETEC gurus' consensus is that the XD100 is the way to go. The gauges will warn you when you're getting low on oil. Prop nut torque? don't know, check with the dealer. I wouldn't leave a quick disconnect screwed in, but try it and see... if no water comes out while running than it's okay I guess. I do run the engine while flushing, though the manual says either running or not is okay. I'd prefer to see the thermostat open up, if possible.

Yes, go ahead and bolt stuff to the deck, just be sure it's properly sealed. I prefer Sikaflex over silicone. Don't use 3M 5200 if you may ever want to get it off for any reason.
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Old 11 June 2007, 13:15   #15
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There's a pic of mine here

There was one on ebay here-might be worth contacting the guy who sold it to see if the seller turned up-he had negative feedback. If not, Babcock disposals may be able to help.
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Old 11 June 2007, 20:17   #16
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I have a thread in the North america section about my complete searider project. I have a lot mor pics I will post as it is almost dome. I have added a small bow locker in front. all I did was trace a pattern out of cardboard template for the top and another one for the front, then I cut them out of plywood and fiberglassed them to my bow. I will have pics of completed boat in the next couple of days. The bow locker was easy qand cost me no more than 25 dollars minus the hatch
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Old 12 June 2007, 18:41   #17
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Evinrude list the 90's prop nut torque as 120-144 in. lbs (or, for you folks to our east, 13.6 to 16.3 N-m.) You'll need to block the prop from spinning with a piece of 2x4 lumber, then crank on the prop nut. If there is play in the prop (fore-aft play, that is) after tightening, you'll get cavitation and eat metal bits from the prop (don't ask how I know...)

Bilge pump: Go bigger than you think you need. I've got a 1000GPH pump, and wish it was bigger. You will not be able to use it to flush the motor (not enough pressure, most likely not enough water, either.)

Flushing adaptor: Don't know. The 2006 manual looks like the hose screws directly into the back of the motor. The manual states that you do not need to run the motor on the hose; it also says that you may run the motor on the hose, but that you may get a CHK ENG warning light. It says the motor will shut off if you have insufficient water to it. I would advise not running, but that's just me.

No need to anti-foul the hull unless you're mooring it long-term in the water. Trailer boats aren't in long enough to foster growth.

Don't know on the rest of the stuff.

jky
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Old 12 June 2007, 18:44   #18
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Useful

Thanks for the prop nut stuff!!!

Engine has only done 7 hours so dunno why it was loose!!
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Old 12 June 2007, 20:57   #19
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I quite like it being grey underneath. Looks nice.
My Hurricane is "grey on grey"... very Gucci! More to the point, it doesn't show dirt and the tubes fade gently to a lighter shade over the years, rather than changing colours. (Ever seen faded orange tubes.... they go kinda pink!)

As for your prop feeling loose after a few hours, my guess is that it wasn't "set" properly when it was mounted initially. Make sure you have a little grease on the spline so it slips on properly...
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Old 13 June 2007, 09:39   #20
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Thanks for the prop nut stuff!!!

Engine has only done 7 hours so dunno why it was loose!!
No problem. You can hit the owners manual at the Evinrude site:

http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Access...re/?popup=true

jky
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