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Old 12 June 2013, 03:59   #1
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So where's best for a retube? Help.

I've heard good things re Henshaws but where else or which manufacturer would you use and most importantly why?

Ideally i think we want a re-tube and hull scrub to remove 5yrs of anti foul over winter. No real need for perfection glass polished finish as it'll be AF'd again. Also need new jockey seat and back rest pads.

Can you rip off existing handles and or rubbing strake and re use on new tubes?

we put thick rubbing strake material underneath the tubes at the back to stop the barnacles wrecking the hypalon. I think it was too much weight and now it feels like they drag dropping our speed massively. You can see the excess spray at the back at speed. That combined with a hull that's been anti fouled 5 times our WOT is 37mph. It was 51mph when we first got it.
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Old 12 June 2013, 05:05   #2
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Henshaws (Christopher on here)
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all have a good reputation, and are or have been trade members on here.

There are some "up norf*" too - Eurocraft and SIS. Humber will of course retube.

RibRaff (Ed Carter) has also done work for people on here - I *think* he works on more of a freelance basis that the others who are businesses with teams of people. When busy he can apparently be hard to track down.

* norf is relative as its souf of here - but probaly less towing for you than Devon
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Old 12 June 2013, 05:15   #3
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Henshaws did a grand job for me, were honest about lead in times etc.
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Old 12 June 2013, 05:20   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly View Post
Henshaws (Christopher on here)
RibShop
Tidel (Paul Tilley on here)

all have a good reputation, and are or have been trade members on here.

There are some "up norf*" too - Eurocraft and SIS. Humber will of course retube.

RibRaff (Ed Carter) has also done work for people on here - I *think* he works on more of a freelance basis that the others who are businesses with teams of people. When busy he can apparently be hard to track down.

* norf is relative as its souf of here - but probaly less towing for you than Devon
Cheers poly, got a few months to research and get quotes.
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Old 12 June 2013, 05:21   #5
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Henshaws did a grand job for me, were honest about lead in times etc.
When did you get it done?

Got any pics please?
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Old 12 June 2013, 05:37   #6
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H-P, do you really need a retube? How old are they?
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Old 12 June 2013, 06:51   #7
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Mick recently had Bouncer retubed at Henshaws, I think he was pleased with the job they did, worth dropping him a PM.
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Old 12 June 2013, 07:22   #8
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H-P, do you really need a retube? How old are they?
2008

The ends seem to be sagging and dragging in the water. Tops and sides etc are fine. A little faded but not bad.

Not sure what else to do? ....
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Old 12 June 2013, 07:56   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL View Post
I've heard good things re Henshaws but where else or which manufacturer would you use and most importantly why?

Can you rip off existing handles and or rubbing strake and re use on new tubes?

Henshaws are fine. Eurocraft (SIT) (I think they are different companies but some of Eurocrafts talent set up SIT). are ok but I always use Paul Tilley He's very good and cares about his customers and he's a man you can trust.

in thory yes you can but it will need to be reprepped and will always look older than thee tubes. Few retubers would want to do it as its going to make their work look iffy

[QUOTE=HUMBER P4VWL;545224Ideally i think we want a re-tube and hull scrub to remove 5yrs of anti foul over winter. No real need for perfection glass polished finish as it'll be AF'd again. Also need new jockey seat and back rest pads.

Do you Know DM hes very good at sorting that out failing that Mike at Osprey

QUOTE]

Quote:
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we put thick rubbing strake material underneath the tubes at the back to stop the barnacles wrecking the hypalon. .

Some people coat the underside of the tubes with Marge or dripping as that prevents the barnacles from forming. Somebody will probably be along to correct me and tell you it's Tripe but its that kinds stuff definitely not butter
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Old 12 June 2013, 08:00   #10
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Somebody will probably be along to correct me and tell you it's Tripe but its that kinds stuff definitely not butter
You'd never get tripe to stick
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Old 12 June 2013, 08:18   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL View Post
2008

The ends seem to be sagging and dragging in the water. Tops and sides etc are fine. A little faded but not bad.

Not sure what else to do? ....
Before you retube:

Get your hull soda or CO2 blasted and use an antifoul that can be powerwashed off when you haul her in the autumn.

Pump the tubes up to the correct pressure (well hard) and don't worry too much about them until they get damaged.

Have the engine's compression checked - just in case....
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Old 12 June 2013, 08:24   #12
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you've lost 12 knots... ...water in the hull?
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Old 12 June 2013, 08:32   #13
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Quote:
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You'd never get tripe to stick
You'd be surprised what'll stick with Hypalon glue



I'm going to try coating the underside of mine and the lower unit with lanolin after discovering some antifoul is lanolin based.
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Old 12 June 2013, 09:02   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post

Before you retube:

Get your hull soda or CO2 blasted and use an antifoul that can be powerwashed off when you haul her in the autumn.

Pump the tubes up to the correct pressure (well hard) and don't worry too much about them until they get damaged.

Have the engine's compression checked - just in case....
Engine seems fine. It's trying but you can feel the boat is slow. Engines only done < 200hrs and is 5 yr old with immaculate service history and winterising etc

Water in hull shouldn't be a problem as we have the bung out at the back so underdeck drains in to the well. Nowhere else water could be.

Would the hull clean really make a difference in speed?

May be right re pumping her up, it's always soft as we leave it on the mooring and don't have pressure release valves. That may well help actually. Our tubes sit low anyway on the Humber.
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Old 12 June 2013, 09:04   #15
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you've lost 12 knots... ...water in the hull?
Do you mean in the hull itself? Or just under deck? As the rear bung's out anyway to let water in to rear well.
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Old 12 June 2013, 09:19   #16
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HP, there may well be another reason that the tubes are dragging, they always seem clear of the water when we pass the Cardinal Buoy on the mooring

but, apart from the insults, I have found Mike at Osprey Ribs to be very helpfull over the last few weeks when I have discussed at length the impending SR4 Project with him, and he can also supply the jockey seats, benchs etc that go into the Ospreys, worth a phone call, and they are only up the roasd from you!!

also, the man a SIT was very helpful, full of good advice re new tubes, again worth a phone call and in comparrison to Henshaws they are on the doorstep being based in Leyland, Lancs.
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Old 12 June 2013, 09:21   #17
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May be right re pumping her up, it's always soft as we leave it on the mooring and don't have pressure release valves. That may well help actually. Our tubes sit low anyway on the Humber.
Tube pressure is critical - did I say critical to the overall RIB performance in terms of speed and sea keeping - always keep the tubes at their correct pressure - especially if the sit low at you say.

Typically the pressure should be about 3 psi - may not sound a lot but it is - buy or borrow a pressure gauge to find out how hard that actually is
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Old 12 June 2013, 09:27   #18
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Tube pressure could be the first port of call.

2nd is the hull. How many knots could you lose from anti foul? Surely not 12.

3rd is the hull itself. Can you test to see if there's water ingress? Is it likely on a 5 yr old boat?
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Old 12 June 2013, 09:30   #19
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Quote:
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Tube pressure could be the first port of call.

2nd is the hull. How many knots could you lose from anti foul? Surely not 12.

3rd is the hull itself. Can you test to see if there's water ingress? Is it likely on a 5 yr old boat?
You would be surprised how much water can get in down the cables and witches hats, I wrapped self amalgamating tape around mine which has helped a lot.
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Old 12 June 2013, 09:31   #20
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[QUOTE=Ribochet;545321

Typically the pressure should be about 3 psi - may not sound a lot[/QUOTE]

Sounds like a lot to me. I always thought it was between I and 2
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