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Old 16 June 2013, 11:41   #61
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probably won't be back for a couple of weeks ourselves, but just let me know when you are next going and we can see what we can sort, even if you dad wants to try that fine with me, but he'll have to have your share of the jelly babies
Cheers Chris.
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Old 16 June 2013, 11:42   #62
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I reckon every new boat should come with a 'dry weight' certificate on purchase. That way you could do a calculation to see if you're carrying water. Then the next thing is to find somewhere that could weigh it?

Someone mention earlier about water entering via witches hat? Do you know if the under deck trunking is sealed or is perforated to allow any water to escape into hull void that can then be drained from the bung.
No trunking. It's above deck. Below deck void drains to rear well.
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Old 16 June 2013, 19:25   #63
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Still think you have water in the toobs ! Ask your dad to blow them up hard then let each chamber down watching the valves for water coming out.it happened to me and the tubes went harder.cost you nothing to prove me wrong !!!

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Old 16 June 2013, 20:03   #64
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Still think you have water in the toobs ! Ask your dad to blow them up hard then let each chamber down watching the valves for water coming out.it happened to me and the tubes went harder.cost you nothing to prove me wrong !!!

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How on earth did/does water get in?
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Old 16 June 2013, 20:17   #65
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How on earth did/does water get in?
Usually the the seam where the tube joins the end cone, or the patch over on the bottom of the tube which is meant to stop this sort of thing. And no, the tube may not deflate
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Old 16 June 2013, 20:20   #66
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A loose seam on the underside near the back of the boat.at speed it opened and let water in.now i have peardrop shaped patches fitted .nearly lost my boat had a 2.5mtr chamber 90% full traveling from t.bay to pilots cove .scared me with wife and daughter on board , keep safe and have fun

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Old 17 June 2013, 06:37   #67
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Ok, now I'm thinking....

End of last season we had the tape come away on the exterior between boat and tube. Right on the rear corner about a couple of inches long. Where would water end up?

How do you get water out of tubes?
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Old 17 June 2013, 06:51   #68
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The seam that connects the tube to the cone on some of the Humbers has a leading edge rather than a trailing edge if that makes sense which can lead to the seam being opened up by the constant passing of water over it on the underside which then fills the tube with water.
If you fully deflate the tube and hold the cone you will be able to feel it inside if this is the case.
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Old 17 June 2013, 07:20   #69
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The seam that connects the tube to the cone on some of the Humbers has a leading edge rather than a trailing edge if that makes sense which can lead to the seam being opened up by the constant passing of water over it on the underside which then fills the tube with water.
If you fully deflate the tube and hold the cone you will be able to feel it inside if this is the case.
Ah, right I understand where you mean now. Will have to check that, but our cones are covered in rubbing strake so it'll be harder to tell
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Old 17 June 2013, 08:08   #70
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It'll be happening on the lowest section of the tube cone join, the part that's in the water. I don't think this part will be covered in strake.
The seam might look intact but with a constant stream if water pushing against it it will sometimes let water in which is then unable to get out.
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Old 17 June 2013, 10:19   #71
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It'll be happening on the lowest section of the tube cone join, the part that's in the water. I don't think this part will be covered in strake.
The seam might look intact but with a constant stream if water pushing against it it will sometimes let water in which is then unable to get out.
We had the lower half of the tubes from amid-ships covered in strake to protect against barnacles etc on the mooring. This goes right round the bottom of the cones etc too.

how exactly would you let the water out? (If it is in there)

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Old 17 June 2013, 11:07   #72
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Ah... ok, not sure how it's getting in there without looking at it, the best way for removing the water is to attach a Wet and dry vacuum on the valve when the boat is on the trailer and lower or lift the jockey wheel so the water will flow towards the valve.
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Old 17 June 2013, 11:25   #73
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Forgot to add that you'll need to deflate the chamber and the one next to it. It might take a while to get all the water out.
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Old 17 June 2013, 11:31   #74
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Cheers, though we need to establish that there is any in there first of course! Annoying the boat is 60 miles away.
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Old 18 June 2013, 09:01   #75
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If you put your boat on a trailer you may hear water inside by lifting and lowering the boat.to vac the water out i think you Will need the correct valve connector to open the valve or you Will be sucking against the valves.may be easier to open the offending seam and let it run out.you'll need to open it to clean and prep to repair.i think it Will be pretty easy to tell if their is water in them ,due to your loss of speed IF THEIR IS WATER IN their Will be a fair amount.

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Old 18 June 2013, 09:21   #76
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The valve can be pushed in and twisted which will hold it open. Easy.. Job done.... no need to open up seams!
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Old 18 June 2013, 09:49   #77
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B&Q were selling a small battery operated aquavac quite cheap a few weeks ago. Might be worth a look.
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Old 18 June 2013, 12:59   #78
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Cheers guys. Hardest bit is getting her out!!
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Old 21 July 2013, 08:10   #79
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Old man's had her out. Barnacle hell!!! For some strange reason it was covered, despite anti foul. She's cleaned off and he thinks she's back up to speed.

Interestingly, a couple of other boat owners have had the same problem. 2 yachts have been taken out mid season when they've never had to in previous years. Must be all the clean water and hot weather.
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Old 21 July 2013, 18:28   #80
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Good news .cheap and easy fix.never occurred to me to think of that as my boats always live on a trailer !

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