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Old 12 June 2013, 14:59   #21
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Paul I use to at the end if the summer loose a hell'va speed. Culprit in the mail was all the shit hanging on to the hull. I took the plunge and AF'd
Do it every year with UNO mainly because over the season it erodes of and there ain't much left by autumn. The other thing I did was I was very harsh regarding all the 'stuff' I had in pods and lockers I now only carry what is necessary. Made a hell'va difference now have same top speed all season and I don't have to keep scrubbing her arse during the year. I also use that spray AF clear kind got it from Force4 on the tube bottoms you need to renew that every three months but does the job.
Hope that helps

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Old 12 June 2013, 15:18   #22
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Jambo, we are ok re weed etc, yes speed drops off a bit (few mph) at the end of the year but the AF we put on keeps most of it off other than a bit at the back.

At the end of the year there isn't much AF left on as it comes off by design.

For some reason last year and this the speed has REALLY gone, even when we launched round the island for first time this year, we only got 38 mph. That's rubbish. I was out on Sunday and it was SLOW. Something is a miss.

I can only think it is the extra cladding we put on, making it a good inch lowere in the water, then with the extra weight and slack tubes another couple of inches. That increase in wetted area can be the only reason.

Going to pump them right up and see.... when i next get a chance.

Will go from there.
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Old 12 June 2013, 15:29   #23
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I remember an article in R.I. called the furtive knot robber. The nub of the story was a large rib circa 7.5m tornado with a verado engine (275 hp I think) was left in the water for a few weeks circa 3 weeks. The rib ran fine before it was moored up and like sh*te after the three weeks. The boat would only barely plain. The Rib was lifted out and the hull pressure washed this had the effect of returning the boat to its original performance.

TSM
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Old 12 June 2013, 16:02   #24
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H-P

1. Pump the tubes
2. Dry out the RIB (check recesses)
3. Take off all the excess kit
If that doesn't help:
4. Test the compression (I know, it's only 5yo, but it's a two stroke...)


I doubt if a bit if cladding is making a RIB lose that much buoyancy.

Before you AF next season, give the hull a quick sanding.
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Old 12 June 2013, 16:42   #25
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The only time I have heard of that much speed loss if it was not any of the forementioned was indeed water thru a bad hull and the the inner of the hull was wood and it was like a sponge, held a hellva water
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Old 12 June 2013, 17:51   #26
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Two stroke mick: what was the reason?

All

A) what's the make up of the Humber OPro hull/deck. If its got ply in between the grp, could it have got in?

B)how would you find out if it has?

C) what do you do if it has?
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Old 12 June 2013, 19:00   #27
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retube

[QUOTE=Rogue Wave;545281]Henshaws are fine. Eurocraft (SIT) (I think they are different companies but some of Eurocrafts talent set up SIT). are ok but I always use Paul Tilley He's very good and cares about his customers and he's a man you can trust.

in thory yes you can but it will need to be reprepped and will always look older than thee tubes. Few retubers would want to do it as its going to make their work look iffy

Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL;545224Ideally i think we want a re-tube and hull scrub to remove 5yrs of anti foul over winter. No real need for perfection glass polished finish as it'll be AF'd again. Also need new jockey seat and back rest pads.

Do you Know DM hes very good at sorting that out failing that Mike at Osprey

QUOTE



Some people coat the underside of the tubes with Marge or dripping as that prevents the barnacles from forming. Somebody will probably be along to correct me and tell you it's Tripe but its that kinds stuff definitely not butter
ive used SIT twice, bang on both times, next retube I need will defo be with them!!
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Old 12 June 2013, 21:43   #28
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Nice to hear!
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Old 12 June 2013, 22:31   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post
H-P

1. Pump the tubes
2. Dry out the RIB (check recesses)
3. Take off all the excess kit
If that doesn't help:
4. Test the compression (I know, it's only 5yo, but it's a two stroke...)

I doubt if a bit if cladding is making a RIB lose that much buoyancy.

Before you AF next season, give the hull a quick sanding.
You forgot to mention ... Stop eating all them pies
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Old 12 June 2013, 22:34   #30
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Quote:
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You forgot to mention ... Stop eating all them pies
Oye!! don't take the pisk... he's going to be running a 1/2 marathon
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Old 12 June 2013, 23:59   #31
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Oye!! don't take the pisk... he's going to be running a 1/2 marathon
ive never seen him only eat 1/2 marathon.............
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Old 13 June 2013, 05:43   #32
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you've lost 12 knots... ...water in the hull?
Is the trailer still underneath it?.... Hahaha
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Old 13 June 2013, 06:07   #33
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Is the trailer still underneath it?.... Hahaha
Ha! It's been done by some I believe!

Tony/Steve/Chris- hmmmmm
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Old 13 June 2013, 07:05   #34
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Dave Cowell of North West Ribs (ex Eurocraft) did a couple of good jobs on my rib North West RIBs & Inflatables - boat repairs he is in Wigan so worth a call.
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Old 13 June 2013, 11:52   #35
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ive never seen him only eat 1/2 marathon.............

Easy If he loses too much weight then his Snickers might fall down
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Old 13 June 2013, 14:19   #36
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Easy If he loses too much weight then his Snickers might fall down
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Old 13 June 2013, 15:22   #37
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Old 13 June 2013, 18:19   #38
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Thought about water in the tubes ?

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Rib.net
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Old 13 June 2013, 19:41   #39
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Ha! It's been done by some I believe!

Tony/Steve/Chris- hmmmmm
Saw a pic in motor boat monthly once of a bayliner with the trailer still attached floatin around!
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Old 13 June 2013, 21:29   #40
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Thought about water in the tubes ?

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Rib.net
Don't think so, no air leaks and valves are tight. Nowhere for it to get in. Good thought though!!
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