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Old 16 July 2010, 12:41   #21
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Originally Posted by Gungemyster View Post
This is all very helpful indeed.

I stupidly took the automatic release valve appart to see why it was leaking air (what a bad move this was!!) lol
Basicallt the rubber seal in it has been pinched at somestage and needs a new one. I have bodged it back together for now so that I can pump it up now that I have cleaed and tightened all the valves to see how long it stays up for.

Pumped it up last night, today the nose has lost a little but the main tubes feel ok at present.


Hmmm Still goes down in a few days over all tubes. More investigation required me thinks!!

Is there anyone in the Bristol area that anyone could recommend for me to get it looked at for a proffessional quote to get it ship shape?
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Old 16 July 2010, 17:25   #22
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Originally Posted by Gungemyster View Post
Hmmm Still goes down in a few days over all tubes. More investigation required me thinks!!

Is there anyone in the Bristol area that anyone could recommend for me to get it looked at for a proffessional quote to get it ship shape?
Pro work on it is going to be expensive. If you haven't already paid for the boat (800 wasn't it?), don't even consider it as for the purchase price+tube repair you could buy a better, ready to run 4m Searider. It'd be basic (no power trim, crap trailer, no electronics, old engine) but still a far better buy.
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Old 16 July 2010, 17:35   #23
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Pro work on it is going to be expensive. If you haven't already paid for the boat (800 wasn't it?), don't even consider it as for the purchase price+tube repair you could buy a better, ready to run 4m Searider. It'd be basic (no power trim, crap trailer, no electronics, old engine) but still a far better buy.

Cheers buddy, I havent paid anything for it yet as I am waiting to see if he will accept my offer (much less than 800) lol. If he does go for it I could be paying as little as 200 for it.

I have started looking at the engine tonight, again I dont want to spend anything on it until I know I am having or not, but basics required would be fuel line.
I will have a look but it there a thread on Mercury engines for set up wiring etc?
I found it does have a starter motoe on it, with a single lead (Im guessing this will be 12V power) but the engine kill switch is not there so I would know how to turn it off!! lol I really am a complete novice!
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Old 16 July 2010, 18:37   #24
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Well, 200 would be more like it, but here's the rub as far as I see it:-

It's worth 200. However, (in my opinion) it's only worth that because you could offload it to someone else for that.

If the engine is ok,and assuming you buy new, it's going to cost you 240ish just for the cables to the engine and steering cable+draglink(I assume all 3 are scrap?).
The cowl front will pop up eventually on Ebay for a couple of quid. However, the engine is mid '70s so even if it's fantastic it's not worth more than a couple of hundred quid.
You'll need a trailer-that one looks very much like scrap.

Now work out how much you want to spend on tube repairs.
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Old 16 July 2010, 18:53   #25
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Thank you so much for your help.

The tubes are Hypertext.

I think you are right, its too much for a begineer, especially when the guys hasnt given me a price yet. I know he paid 800 at auction and as it is, I would not want to give much more than 100 with the work that needs to be done.
I think it is save up a few more pennies and get one running and ready to go. There isnt even a winch on the trailer and it doesnt sit well on the trailer.
I will post up some pics shortly.

And you want to risk your sons on something like this? I have read the your start post on here. Walk away - go and buy something that is safe, be prepared to pay for it. Starting off by saying you are only prepared to spend 100 because of the work that's needed says it all.
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Old 16 July 2010, 19:01   #26
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And you want to risk your sons on something like this? I have read the your start post on here. Walk away - go and buy something that is safe, be prepared to pay for it. Starting off by saying you are only prepared to spend 100 because of the work that's needed says it all.

Fair comment, but I just love to tinker! lol.

If I can find the leak and sort it, it could be saved. If the guy doesnt accept my offer then it is going back anyway.
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Old 17 July 2010, 03:55   #27
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Fair comment, but I just love to tinker! lol.
You'll find plenty to do on even a 'ready to go' boat unless it's had thousands of pounds and many hours spent on it
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Old 01 September 2010, 12:03   #28
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The guy has accepted 100 which is fair in my opinion, as I can spend a little time and effort (and help on here) to get it back in the water.

I have had the engine running and started doing the water pump, but there are a few bits I need to find so if there is anyone in the know and has Merc blueband 20hp bits, or steering and throttle bits, give me a shout.

As far as the front seam on the rib then I am going to have to find someone local who can repair that and fit a new auto relief valve as I just cant get thet bad boy back together and besides the rubber in it is damaged (which is why it leaked in the first place.

Do you think I have done the right thing by buying it for 100?? I think I have something to work on now at least.
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Old 01 September 2010, 12:27   #29
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Do you think I have done the right thing by buying it for 100??
No
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Old 01 September 2010, 12:39   #30
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No
I agree.

However, it could be a shrewd move. Get the engine running, take it off and sell the boat and engine separately on Ebay and you'll probably get enough to buy a restorable SR4.
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