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Old 06 July 2010, 10:57   #11
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Rib pics

Here are the pics of the Rib, so in your opinions whats it worth in its current condition??



Area the tube has come unstuck at the front lefthand side.



protection come unstuck on the front



console



steering undernieth









The leaking valve




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Old 06 July 2010, 14:02   #12
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It's gonna be a tough job to repair that... the fabric tends to go brittle on these when they're older which doesn't help.
The understrip will need to be peeled back from the bow and the chances are you'll find more sections which aren't stuck too.
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Old 07 July 2010, 04:58   #13
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Ok, I think enough said. I think it might be time to send it bad with its tail between its legs.

Thanks for all the help and advice on this one. I will save the pennies and see what I can find out there.

If he doesnt want it back I might turn it into a sand pit for the kids!! lol.
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Old 12 July 2010, 13:48   #14
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I have taken out the automatic relief value tonight and found the rubber seal has been damaged by the last person putting it back in. I have no idea how I am going to get it back in!! lol
I was also expecting to find kind of inner tubes attached to the air valves inside but is it litterally an internal wall in between each chamber?
I have also found expandable foam inside the tubes (Im guessing this isnt normal)

I know I know, I said I was going to hand it back to the guy but I just could halp myself and had to have a look!!
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Old 13 July 2010, 07:38   #15
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talk to someone like 9d280 who has an unhealthy interest in vintage outboards!
It's not that unhealthy - none of them have killed me....yet!


The reverse problem may be down to the design of those gearboxes - namely they default to forward gear unless the cable / lever tells them to do something else. There are (certainly not on the 50/ 60Hp versions, which I believe are basically similar design) no latches or stuff in the gearbox. As a quick visual, that cable looks OK, but does it move when you turn the wheel? I canlt see form the pics if there;s a remotes box on the port side of the console, but assuming you donlt have one, you donlt need to spend loads on a fancy Quicksilver one. A "simple mechanical" one (al lthe aftermarket bods do them, and the Branded ones are also very cross compatible) E.g yam do a "budget" remote with throttle / gear & deadman, desifned for pull start engines where you don't need the electrical interlocking, keys etc.


I guess the project cost can be looked at two ways - if it holds air for 2 days, that's a day longer than my front bit of toob held air for when I first got mine. A year later I got round to finding the hole. Just meant leaving it on a mooring for >20hrs became a flood risk, and I always carried a pump. The peeling hull / toob joint is a glue job, BUT as has been said it's what else you might find.

Yes it's nice to have a GPS etc etc, but it's also fun to cruise / fish in company.

I would definetly second the lifejackets tho', whatever boat you choose / use
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Old 13 July 2010, 10:51   #16
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It's not that unhealthy - none of them have killed me....yet!


The reverse problem may be down to the design of those gearboxes - namely they default to forward gear unless the cable / lever tells them to do something else. There are (certainly not on the 50/ 60Hp versions, which I believe are basically similar design) no latches or stuff in the gearbox. As a quick visual, that cable looks OK, but does it move when you turn the wheel? I canlt see form the pics if there;s a remotes box on the port side of the console, but assuming you donlt have one, you donlt need to spend loads on a fancy Quicksilver one. A "simple mechanical" one (al lthe aftermarket bods do them, and the Branded ones are also very cross compatible) E.g yam do a "budget" remote with throttle / gear & deadman, desifned for pull start engines where you don't need the electrical interlocking, keys etc.


I guess the project cost can be looked at two ways - if it holds air for 2 days, that's a day longer than my front bit of toob held air for when I first got mine. A year later I got round to finding the hole. Just meant leaving it on a mooring for >20hrs became a flood risk, and I always carried a pump. The peeling hull / toob joint is a glue job, BUT as has been said it's what else you might find.

Yes it's nice to have a GPS etc etc, but it's also fun to cruise / fish in company.

I would definetly second the lifejackets tho', whatever boat you choose / use
Thanks, Once I get the f%&ing release valve back in!! I will test it again, but basically in the auto releave valve, the rubber seal has been pinched and torn so a new one of these required. If I can get it back on then I will bung this up for now and pump up again, check the valves for air leaks and see how long it stays up.
If the internal chambers have gone mking it one big tube, does this not concern anyone as surely, one punchture and Im sinking!! lol glug glug glug!!
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Old 13 July 2010, 11:31   #17
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If the internal chambers have gone mking it one big tube, does this not concern anyone as surely, one punchture and Im sinking!! lol glug glug glug!!
That's the good thing about RIBs - No!

I forget where I read it, but I think Avon (anyone out there can corrrect me?) once said that as long as one section of toob was inflated, it could stay afloat with engine & crew clinging to what was left. Also if you only loose a section of your toob in theory you can lash it up & carry on (at slower speed). But that's all down to risk management.

You could still test the internal baffles with one valve missing!
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Old 14 July 2010, 02:58   #18
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That's the good thing about RIBs - No!

I forget where I read it, but I think Avon (anyone out there can corrrect me?) once said that as long as one section of toob was inflated, it could stay afloat with engine & crew clinging to what was left. Also if you only loose a section of your toob in theory you can lash it up & carry on (at slower speed). But that's all down to risk management.

You could still test the internal baffles with one valve missing!
This is absolutely true - MOST (if not all!) RIBs will float quite happily with no tubes inflated at all; in fact we have pictures of one of our old Aquaflytes undergoing tests for stability with no tubes even fitted - still couldn't sink it! There are stories (maybe right, maybe not) of RIBs making it back to the mainland from the Channel Islands with partially or totally deflated tubes. The rules for construction mean that there are huge amounts of "spare" buoyancy within the hulls - and also bear in mind that there are a lot of RIB designs out there where the tubes don't even touch the water when at rest - not even kissing the water at the transom.....
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Old 14 July 2010, 12:36   #19
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http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...magellan+alpha
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Old 14 July 2010, 15:23   #20
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This is all very helpful indeed.

I stupidly took the automatic release valve appart to see why it was leaking air (what a bad move this was!!) lol
Basicallt the rubber seal in it has been pinched at somestage and needs a new one. I have bodged it back together for now so that I can pump it up now that I have cleaed and tightened all the valves to see how long it stays up for.

Pumped it up last night, today the nose has lost a little but the main tubes feel ok at present.
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