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Old 17 February 2017, 22:58   #1
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Seat/console mounting with screws or glue

Hi
Seen seat/console/T-tops mounting guides through internet using screws through floor. Adding sealant to protect from water intrance.

Another method offered by one local here was getting gelcoat of where both parts touch, and gluing both parts with same hull material, then fill in gaps with gelcoat.
Other offer was (in case with t-top) getting gelcoat of, gluing piece of wood with same hull material then screwing t top to the extra 4 pieces of wood at each corner.

No screw through floor is based on idea of having not to deal with drilling through floor so no chance of water somehow getting in and hence keeing package sealed as came from factory.

Would like to get your opinions here.
Sameh
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Old 18 February 2017, 09:51   #2
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How permanent do you want the installation to be?
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Old 18 February 2017, 09:59   #3
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How permanent do you want the installation to be?
Permanent. Not thinking of relocating or removing at certain time
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Old 18 February 2017, 11:33   #4
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Look on thread filling screw holes, gelcoat on its own will crack you need a flexible joint such as sikaflex with screws with the screws dipped in sikaflex or glass in as in the video on the thread and flowcoat finish to waterproof.
Putting wood in gives a second joint and at each corner reduces the contact area of the base to the deck.
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Old 18 February 2017, 12:50   #5
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Quote:
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Look on thread filling screw holes, gelcoat on its own will crack you need a flexible joint such as sikaflex with screws with the screws dipped in sikaflex or glass in as in the video on the thread and flowcoat finish to waterproof.
Putting wood in gives a second joint and at each corner reduces the contact area of the base to the deck.
I will look for that thread.
Option to take down gelcoat and just glue to the fiber without screws would still be recommended?
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Old 18 February 2017, 13:18   #6
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I will look for that thread.
Option to take down gelcoat and just glue to the fiber without screws would still be recommended?
If you're bonding fiberglass to fiberglass, that is an acceptable option.

If you are cross bonding either stainless or aluminum to fiberglass, my personal preference is methyl methacrylate. A thickened epoxy resin such as West System Six10 is also acceptable.
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Old 18 February 2017, 13:42   #7
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If you're bonding fiberglass to fiberglass, that is an acceptable option.

If you are cross bonding either stainless or aluminum to fiberglass, my personal preference is methyl methacrylate. A thickened epoxy resin such as West System Six10 is also acceptable.
Many thanks
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Old 18 February 2017, 14:16   #8
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I will look for that thread.
Option to take down gelcoat and just glue to the fiber without screws would still be recommended?
It depends on your boat build my deck was plywood glassed over then flowcoated I took the flowcoat off because it contains wax down to glass then sikaflex and screwed down I would always screw down as my boat builder had done I also know it works as I did it for shock mitigation seats.

One boat I had it's deck was moulded same as the hull but it cracked & crazed so I would have proberbly put through bolt fixings for that to be sure in case the gelcoat delaminated.

The sika takes up all the surface roughness so you get 100% surface area of your bases in contact with the deck & seals the joint to make watertight compartments & if your screws are internal no water around them not that it does if external if you do it correctly
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Old 18 February 2017, 14:35   #9
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Consoles and T frames need to be really well anchored to the deck because people will grab them for balance. Take the flow coat off the deck and back to GRP, screw down onto epoxy and fibre glass cloth then apply several other layers of cloth and epoxy over the top of the feet. Finally paint with the epoxy cloth with non slip because sunlight breaks it down.
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Old 18 February 2017, 14:47   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g View Post
It depends on your boat build my deck was plywood glassed over then flowcoated I took the flowcoat off because it contains wax down to glass then sikaflex and screwed down I would always screw down as my boat builder had done I also know it works as I did it for shock mitigation seats.

One boat I had it's deck was moulded same as the hull but it cracked & crazed so I would have proberbly put through bolt fixings for that to be sure in case the gelcoat delaminated.

The sika takes up all the surface roughness so you get 100% surface area of your bases in contact with the deck & seals the joint to make watertight compartments & if your screws are internal no water around them not that it does if external if you do it correctly
Many thanks
I Should go over all you said (also due to english professional frases abit unfamiliar) and try to get the maximum.
Thanks again
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