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Old 11 April 2005, 21:29   #1
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Searider set up

Ok, here's a question that betrays my lack of knowledge about ribs.
If you have a rib that has the funny fabric bit and steering wheel attached at the front like on this
can it easily be changed so that it doesnt have the funny fabric bit and be able to fit a jockey seat/console?
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Old 11 April 2005, 21:51   #2
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Yep, just rip it out and start again. Seriously though where the hypalon spray cover meets the tubes, if this is glued it might take a bit of cleaning to get rid of the join.
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Old 12 April 2005, 18:04   #3
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Mine has been modified in this way.

I don't think its possible to get rid of every trace of the fabric at the front, but you can get rid of most of it. It doesn't seem to affect the integrity of the tubes/hull. Its just a case of being careful with a stanley knife.

Mine also had large rubber glued on mountings for a steel frame. These have been cut back but are still visible.

At the end of the day its an old boat and I'm not too bothered about its looks as long as it does the job.

Maybe somebody on here has an easy way to get the last vestiges of the glued Hypalon and rubber supports off the tubes. I might give it a try then.
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Old 12 April 2005, 21:51   #4
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You will find it the glue will come apart more easily with some gentle heat. Go and buy a cheap hairdryer.

A gentle abrasive like a nylon scouring pad can help with the job.

You can also buy hypalon paint although I'm not sure how expensive or how much hassle it is to apply.

Quote:
Its just a case of being careful with a stanley knife.
I'm a chicken - I wouldn't use a knife anywhere near the tubes - blunt scraper is less risky.

Good luck.
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Old 12 April 2005, 22:00   #5
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I'd stick some wear patches over the dodgy bits and hide them that way.
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Old 13 April 2005, 00:38   #6
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If the spray hood hasn't any rips or tears, I would be tempted to leave it in place. You will still have room for a 2 seater jockey console.. Plus the spray hood will do just that, keep some of the spray of you, and provide a protected area for the fuel tank and other stuff.. Most of the SR4's that still have the hood have them "loose".. I shoved an oar between the front of the tubes and the top of the console, keeping the hood up, and stretched tight.. IMO it looks a whole lot better..
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Old 13 April 2005, 09:54   #7
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My Avon still has the boy dodger on the front, I decided to leave it on there, because it hides the fuel tank, keeps the spray off you and provides dry storage while keeping some weight up front.
Picture

Good luck with the project,


Alex
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Old 13 April 2005, 12:04   #8
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Does it not make the space in the rib restricted. could you for example reach over the bow into the water?
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Old 13 April 2005, 12:08   #9
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Not without bending so far over your liable to fall in.. If you keep the original SR4 set-up, the fuel tank takes up 90% of the front floor space. So not exactly sure what advantage there would be in being able to access right to the front of the bow..
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Old 13 April 2005, 14:49   #10
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Mine is a shallow v Avon Supersport not a Searider and I am a little overpowered, having the maximum rated HP. I need as much weight up front as possible other wise the nose shoots skywards when accelerating onto the plane. My 25 litre tank is strapped to the floor when in place infront of the console so I can't get to the bow anyway. I left the bow dodger over the top because it hides the fuel tank which is useful when moored up because the theiving scum bags cant see it and it provides useful stowage.

regards

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Old 20 July 2005, 09:49   #11
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I know this is an old question but I've got what appears to be a very early SR4 (stainless transom supports etc)where the bow dodger 'appears' to be part of the bow tube (it's hypalon too-though obviously it' not inflated...)

If I cut the bow dodger off do I need to seal the edge of the fabric at the point of the cut? I've never done anything any more major than patch before.

I'd ideally like to either remove it totally or put a zip down the centre and eyelets near the tubes so I can roll/tie it up and have the best of both worlds. Would a zip need a pro to install or welding in or anything?
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Old 23 July 2005, 16:52   #12
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bump!
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