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Old 23 January 2012, 11:33   #21
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Although I'd love to do a job like this I am in the middle of my exams and only get one day a weekend free.
I can't afford to have it done for me either. maybe if I could find another SR4 without an engine cheap..?
why would an external Fibreglass patch not work? is it a case of not lasting or just plain dangerous?

some more pictures

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Old 23 January 2012, 12:52   #22
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It is not just a simple matter of a minor patch. This area of the hull takes a lot of force, particularly when landing from a 'little air'. As you can imgine, the force tries to push this part of the hull, where the chines are sited, upwards, and in effect, into the hull void. If left unattended it will fail, the only questions being by how much and when. So. to get the structural strength from an external patch would mean that the patch would be very substantial. Infact, even with careful preparation, I doubt that sufficient strength could be achieved by an external patch. The reason it has failed is because it is a high stress area, probably with too light a lay up as stated by Ribraff, and having seen how hard you work it ..............
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Old 23 January 2012, 13:07   #23
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Quote:
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It is not just a simple matter of a minor patch. This area of the hull takes a lot of force, particularly when landing from a 'little air'. As you can imgine, the force tries to push this part of the hull, where the chines are sited, upwards, and in effect, into the hull void. If left unattended it will fail, the only questions being by how much and when. So. to get the structural strength from an external patch would mean that the patch would be very substantial. Infact, even with careful preparation, I doubt that sufficient strength could be achieved by an external patch. The reason it has failed is because it is a high stress area, probably with too light a lay up as stated by Ribraff, and having seen how hard you work it ..............
Hmm I see, and it was already like that when I bought it! honest just had a external patch on it.

what do you guys reckon if I use fibreglass on the outside to first reconstruct the shape and give me something to work on, then cut a hole in the deck in front of the console (luckily the gash is in front of it) make braces out of...? not sure what to make them out of and no idea if marine ply would hold up. then fibreglass and epoxy them in to act as support finally lots of liquid epoxy to add more strength.
I would also like to add some closed cell expanding foam when i'm finished to secure a fuel tank in the deck.

what does everyone think then?

here's a very bad sketch up, triangle represents brace shape. so supporting the V
hull is a rectangle because I'm terrible at art. red represents gash and yellow is epoxy+ fibreglass.
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Old 23 January 2012, 13:51   #24
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Not sure whether I am missing your point or not, but if you think that you can access the hull void in the appropriate area without lifting the console, why bother putting bits of wood in there? Get in with a grinder of some sort, clean the area up on the inside and build up layers of glass mat. If I was doing it I would use chop strand mat, but some of the professionals on here may well advise woven matting, to get the strength in the right directions? Once you have accessed the right area, and cleaned up the surrounding area, the actual repair should be straight forward. Just try not to get too high on resin fumes
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Old 23 January 2012, 14:12   #25
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Nathan, from what I can see and having met you I think this is well within your ability. As Ian said if you cut a hole on the deck in front of the console ( as small as possible and in the correct place- measure lots of times before you cut as your going to have to seal it back up). Lay some suitable matt and build it up inside. It wont need to be pretty ! Then the outside becomes a cosmetic issue which can be filled and sanded as needed.

Then once its all solid, replace the hole you cut in the deck ( with the bit you chopped out) glass that all back in and seal it all up and back out on the water.

I's say its maybe a few days patient work for you and will stand you in good stead as a learning experiance.

Pete
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Old 23 January 2012, 14:13   #26
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I thought of using braces to provide support and prevent any caving in etc.
How much glass mat are we talking about? Building up a thick layer from the bottom of the hull like 2-3 inches? Or do I think it needs more support than it actually needs?

Also what is supplied in the overpriced chandlery kits to glue down the fiberglass? Is it any old 2 part epoxy or something special?

I can get high off the fumes? *note to self: do not wear breathing mask*
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Old 23 January 2012, 14:16   #27
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Am pretty sure someone on here can list what you may need. Lots on here have done this type of stuff .....which explains a lot as a result of fumes ......

I'm guessing google/youtube will reveal lots of how to stuff.Have a search on here for searider refurb threads and you'll seehow things are under the deck.
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Old 23 January 2012, 14:33   #28
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I thought of using braces to provide support and prevent any caving in etc.
How much glass mat are we talking about? Building up a thick layer from the bottom of the hull like 2-3 inches? Or do I think it needs more support than it actually needs?

Also what is supplied in the overpriced chandlery kits to glue down the fiberglass? Is it any old 2 part epoxy or something special?

I can get high off the fumes? *note to self: do not wear breathing mask*
Nathan,
cfsnet.co.uk is good source of the raw materials, they also have some good info on fibreglassing on their web site. I have also found them to be a very prompt service. There are others of course. I would use a good polyester resin, fair bit cheaper than epoxy
You might want to re-think the face mask when grinding out
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Old 24 January 2012, 14:14   #29
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Hi Nathan, as a rule you need to grind the damaged area inside the hull, thus prepareing the old glassfibre, so the new bonds well, alow at least 100mm overlap from damaged area, then apply resin and 2 chop strand mats, making sure you force all the air out by rolling,leave to dry then roughen the area again using corse sand paper, then repeat with 2 more layers of choped stand, when this has cured you can then sort out the outside by again prepareing the old gelcoat as before, I would make a new keel guard using a biaxe type woven matt and resin, make sure you overlap the damaged area by at least 100mm, then fill and sand ready for painting. regards Mark
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Old 24 January 2012, 14:17   #30
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4 layers of CSM
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