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Old 24 March 2009, 15:54   #21
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Originally Posted by GuyP View Post
I think it's about right - certainly not overly optimistic like some of the crud you see for sale. Ribtec's are expensive new and of the same quality as Ribcraft (certainly when the boat in question was made).


wrong boat mate, but you realised that now!!
Have you seen the price of SR5.4s new???theyre a bit dear
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Old 24 March 2009, 15:58   #22
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I reckon around £3k for the 5.4 max depending on the condition of it on viewing-as Doggypaddle says, it'll take a bit of cleaning up.It has no electronics either.

That bit on the tubes where the rubbing strake is lifting needs sorting out too or water will be forced in there and you really don't want that-the seam from the cone is directly underneath the end strip over the strake.
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Old 24 March 2009, 16:11   #23
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I reckon around £3k for the 5.4 max
Thanks Nos thats what i thought, though i did not think the rubbing strake lifting was that much of an issue, was going to go and have a look what else is there to check?
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Old 24 March 2009, 16:32   #24
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http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?p=249763#post249763
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Old 24 March 2009, 16:46   #25
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As a baby SR owner does anyone else think that the 5.4m is pig ugly? Not disputing the proven heritage, seaworthiness etc or anything like that.

Or is it just me suffering from PMT (or the male equivalent)?
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Old 24 March 2009, 17:00   #26
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As a baby SR owner does anyone else think that the 5.4m is pig ugly? Not disputing the proven heritage, seaworthiness etc or anything like that.

Or is it just me suffering from PMT (or the male equivalent)?
All searider's aren't the the best looking RIBS out there. Because they're a no bullshit-do the job boat, plus you gotta take into account the age of the design. I know I'd have a far easier time with her in doors if I had something with more comfort and style.
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Old 24 March 2009, 17:12   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo500 View Post
As a baby SR owner does anyone else think that the 5.4m is pig ugly? Not disputing the proven heritage, seaworthiness etc or anything like that.

Or is it just me suffering from PMT (or the male equivalent)?
I agree-but mine's beautiful They do look far better in grey.
It's only the console and the huge rubbing strakes that let make them ugly really. Some look quite pretty-Ian McConnell's one for example, or Intotheblue's one.
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Old 24 March 2009, 17:21   #28
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wrong boat mate, but you realised that now!!
Have you seen the price of SR5.4s new???theyre a bit dear
Agreed - expensive new but there are alot of them around on the 2nd hand market. To be fair, the hull and tubes on this one look in good condition (from the pics) and it'd be quite easy to get it back in top condition, it is really the 20 year old engine I'd want to have a good look at before buying.
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Old 24 March 2009, 22:26   #29
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it'd be quite easy to get it back in top condition, it is really the 20 year old engine I'd want to have a good look at before buying.
My thoughts exactly, i've been looking for a little while now and thought if this could be had for 3k and the motor is sound, apparently it has been regularly serviced it would be a worthwile investment, who knows what a weekend with some rib revive could achieve?
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Old 24 March 2009, 23:16   #30
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i did not think the rubbing strake lifting was that much of an issue
The end cover over the strake is also glued over the cone seam tape. When mine did just what that's done (in exactly the same place), water pressure lifted the glue on the strip covering the end of the strake and started pulling the whole strip off. It started to lift the edge of the seam tape on the cone join.
I got Henshaws to fix it as it entails removing the whole strip in order to reglue it and it doesn't look an easy job to do without damaging the cone seam.

The upshot of all that was it took a days labour for Henshaws to fix it and reinforce so it can't recur. I suspect it'd take you or I a lot longer than that to do it properly.
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Old 26 March 2009, 13:31   #31
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FOA Nos have now a close up tube, henshaws say a couple of hours to put right, welcome comments as to the general conditon.
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Old 26 March 2009, 13:51   #32
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My tubes were exactly the same, it doesnt take long for water to get in and start to lift the cone seam. To do the job properly the strakes need pulling back and cleaning off, and the seam patches need the same treatment and re gluing, then the strakes can be re glued, then a big patch over the lot to keep the water out. The leading edges of which need to be sixaflexed to stop the edge lifting. i did mine myself and it took a good day to do the one side, and a half day to just put the overpatch on the otherside to match. (£100 parts of Mr Tilley)Its not a pleasant job unless you like getting covered in glue, sikaflex and intoxicated with toluene fumes. Its a one hit job too, once the hypalon toyches the glue it wont beel back again if you get a crease. Paul Tilley and Henshaws make it look as easy as falling off a kerb!
I suggest you reas NOS article on buying a used rib and take note of the comments on wooden boats like seariders, decide for yourself what you are willing to pay for it. If the engine is good, trailer is good, (apart from possibly being illegal because of no brakes and a plated weight over 750kgs) and the boat core is dry, then as wa both previously mentioned its worth in the reigon of £2750. Knowing the work thats involved tidying SRs up i would want to pay around £2250 so i could get it all sorted and tidy for less then £4K If you can get it for between those two figures then you will have a reasonable deal. I think £3k would be absolutley about it, if the engine had the decals on, the tubes were glued back, and brakes fitted, it would be worth more, certainly at peak season, however the price of everything seems to be dropping at the moment and there have been some real bargains on fleabay, try a cheeky offer and point out all the faults(quite often i find sellers are ignorant of the fact there is a problem and will negociate when you point it out) they can only say FO.
A bit of a ramble hope it helps
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Old 26 March 2009, 13:55   #33
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You can reactivate the glue if you mess up by dabbing a little thinners on.
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Old 26 March 2009, 14:05   #34
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You can reactivate the glue if you mess up by dabbing a little thinners on.
I didn't have any success doing that, not on a large area anyway, i found the glue i had off Paul once it starts to cure is virtually insoluable in toluene. I put a patch on a bit twisted and tried to pull it off to square it up and couldn't pull it off with two hands and feet against the tube, when it did come off the glue stayed on one surface and i had to start again.
next time i left it a bit tackier but then it didnt grab and i had to roller it for an hour
when i replace the rubbing strakes i am going to get Mr Tilley to do it!
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Old 26 March 2009, 15:44   #35
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Its some sort of bostik thinners we use, not sure what type?
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Old 26 March 2009, 18:32   #36
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FOA Nos have now a close up tube, henshaws say a couple of hours to put right, welcome comments as to the general conditon.
Prob is only a couple of hours for Henshaws to put right-I got them to fix mine and replace the lifting section of strake and reinforce it so it couldn't happen again-hence the day in labour. They made a fantastic job of it too
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Old 29 March 2009, 22:32   #37
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Hi having bought an Aerotech last year i am now offically addicted and am after a Rib. Having scoured this forum I have deceided that the Searider 5.4 is the one for me. My ideal mount would have a Yam 90 but they are as rare as hens teeth and I cant wait for Matt to sell his.

I have seen this advertised and it would seem fairly original and does have the yam motor albeit 80hp and not 90, so calling the likes of Nos, Chris and Matt to impare your pearls of wisdom upon me.
I am not a Searider expert but one thing I would say is that console / seating is bollox

the 5.4 might be a cracking hull but when you hit the rough stuff that console will really show its limitations. Matt H has recently done some mods to make his more comfortable and I am sure he would agree with what I have said above.
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