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Old 17 February 2019, 18:37   #1
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Sealing old bilge outlets

I have two stainless pipes poking through transom for bilge outlets, flush to transom on outside and protruding on inside of transom.

Problem is they sit a little low, and without a substantial loop in the hose it symphons back in. Although the loop fixed the problem. Id rather move the bilge outlets up to higher ground for fear of hose failure etc.

There is no way in a million years I will get the stainless out of the hull, so was thinking about sealing the whole tube up, either with epoxy or 5200. It sits about 1 above waterline with no waves and is regularly wet so needs to be fully watertight.

Any opinions on my possible fix would be appreciated.

Thanks GT
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Old 17 February 2019, 20:33   #2
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5200. Will take you ten minutes. Job done.
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Old 18 February 2019, 08:38   #3
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Could you join them up? It doesn't avoid hose failure but it is pretty reversible in the future if you were to need them for some reason.
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Old 18 February 2019, 09:14   #4
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Big sploges of filler is all very well from a practical point of view...but surely a more aesthetically pleasing solution may be available?...Dowel and Glued and then maybe domed SS Bolts screwed and/or glued/bonded in?..
...It would also help to keep Transum strength /integrity....especially if your going to drill another two large holes in a slightly different location.
A couple of pics may help.
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Old 18 February 2019, 09:54   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtflash View Post
I have two stainless pipes poking through transom for bilge outlets, flush to transom on outside and protruding on inside of transom.

Problem is they sit a little low, and without a substantial loop in the hose it symphons back in. Although the loop fixed the problem. Id rather move the bilge outlets up to higher ground for fear of hose failure etc.

There is no way in a million years I will get the stainless out of the hull, so was thinking about sealing the whole tube up, either with epoxy or 5200. It sits about 1 above waterline with no waves and is regularly wet so needs to be fully watertight.

Any opinions on my possible fix would be appreciated.

Thanks GT
Drain pipe bungs (google it) available in all sizes, cheap, neat and quick.
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Old 18 February 2019, 11:28   #6
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keep them and install a one way valve with a ball valve behind it so you can close it off and clean the crap out
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Old 19 February 2019, 11:40   #7
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Here you go. You can see the water line above antifoul. The top left is the bilge outlets that take on water if I remove loop in hoses and nrv. One on each side. A third bilge that I fitted to drain from front of boat is mounted high and dishcahrges into outboard well

Although this works, it means the hulls integrity is dependant On a bit of hose and it might end up on a swing mooring for a while this season.

I like the idea of finishing it off with a stainless bolt. Or even a lifting eye device.

Is 5200 driallable if I fill the stainless tube up with it?
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Old 19 February 2019, 12:14   #8
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Is 5200 driallable if I fill the stainless tube up with it?

Yes. Would take you five mins to reinstate the holes if you wish. That's certainly what I would do.
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Old 19 February 2019, 12:27   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtflash View Post
Here you go. You can see the water line above antifoul. The top left is the bilge outlets that take on water if I remove loop in hoses and nrv. One on each side. A third bilge that I fitted to drain from front of boat is mounted high and dishcahrges into outboard well

Although this works, it means the hulls integrity is dependant On a bit of hose and it might end up on a swing mooring for a while this season.

I like the idea of finishing it off with a stainless bolt. Or even a lifting eye device.

Is 5200 driallable if I fill the stainless tube up with it?
Yep...
But ..The hole is not that large diameter looking at the pics..Domed SS Bolt Washer/or possibly Towing eye with large washer/plate on the inside and well sealed...Job done.
That way you always have the option to open it up again...and keeps it as standard
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