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Old 17 June 2011, 17:48   #11
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I'm not sure that antifoul slows a boat down that much; I can't tell any difference personally. I've tried bleach in the past. It's ok, but the trouble is that it takes a while before the weed drops off and it doesn't get rid of any caked-on mud which obviously will slow you down. Coppercoat won't prevent mud settling on the hull either so what I bought recently was a Vileda mop from B&Q that has a right angle head. I can now clean my hull whilst the boat's dried out resting on her beaching legs, even at MSt.M.
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Old 17 June 2011, 17:50   #12
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Originally Posted by phil richards View Post
Hi guys, how long can you keep a rib ( if at all) on a mooring without using anti foul paint?, if it has been on a mooring for a few weeks can you just clean the hull or does it make it difficult to clean? ie it eats in to the surface. Still new to the ribbibg world but learning fast....and sometimes the hard way!! cheers.
Ps when a rib is on a mooring do you leave the bungs in on the for and aft locker/engine well area on a Destroyer and why are they there? apart from condensation etc.
Phil
It seems to vary considerably depending on your location. Given that your profile says you are at Ullapool, I'd give it a go without antifouling. My experience of being over from you in the islands is no growth in the time scale you are talking of.
You should not get water into the inner hull of your Destroyer, if that happens you should be investigating the leak. If you fit the rear bung when the hull is cold a positive pressure will develop as the hull warms.
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Old 18 June 2011, 03:05   #13
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That'll be Sodium Hypochloride (chlorine) then? Typically sold 10-15% for sterlising things. Swimming pools for example. It's very caustic (a strong Base)



That's a change from the Hydrochloric Acid you were using last year

You lot, what are yiz like?
Hey we all make mistakes.

Ian
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Old 18 June 2011, 03:28   #14
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It seems to vary considerably depending on your location. Given that your profile says you are at Ullapool, I'd give it a go without antifouling. My experience of being over from you in the islands is no growth in the time scale you are talking of.
You should not get water into the inner hull of your Destroyer, if that happens you should be investigating the leak. If you fit the rear bung when the hull is cold a positive pressure will develop as the hull warms.
Therefore if you put the bung in when warm it will go loose when the rear well fills with rainwater. Consequentially the void will get water in as ours does. Ours is a new boat and the void gets water in with bungs fitted as they're not screw in, just rubber bungs. Asked Humber and PBS and they both said the same.
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Old 18 June 2011, 06:53   #15
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Hey we all make mistakes.

Ian
We do. And I wasn't being picky, it's just that I wouldn't want someone to mess with either of those brews

BTW, if you mix them they generate a rapid chlorine gas release that is rather deadly. I've lost several pairs of trousers and a few shirts to the hypo. A few bits of skin to the hydrochloric...
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Old 18 June 2011, 07:45   #16
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BTW, if you mix them they generate a rapid chlorine gas release that is rather deadly.
Good grief - what a coincidence!


Anyone guess what these numpties were doing?
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Old 18 June 2011, 17:22   #17
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ok i cant remember the exact chemical...i'll read the label on monday at work and tell you..

all i know it works a treat and i dilute it about 50-50 ..stubburn bits put it on neat..


and yes i once mixed this "bleach" in a sprayer that had some of our rust descaler acid ( it pp400 phosphoric acid i think) and it cleared everone out of the office in seconds .....
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Old 18 June 2011, 17:50   #18
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and yes i once mixed this "bleach" in a sprayer that had some of our rust descaler acid ( it pp400 phosphoric acid i think) and it cleared everone out of the office in seconds .....
On a smaller and more homely scale - it's the same reaction that occurs when your missus has bleached the jakes and you take a whizz in it - fizz!

Hypo + Uric acid = fizzy water & a mighty whiff!
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Old 19 June 2011, 17:30   #19
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Therefore if you put the bung in when warm it will go loose when the rear well fills with rainwater. Consequentially the void will get water in as ours does. Ours is a new boat and the void gets water in with bungs fitted as they're not screw in, just rubber bungs. Asked Humber and PBS and they both said the same.
Well yes if the bung is fitted when the boat is warm that will apply that's why I mentioned it. However, be rational, if water is getting in then there is a leak somewhere and there shouldn't be. After all, you dont expect water to come through your hull, why would you expect it to come through your deck?
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Old 19 June 2011, 20:58   #20
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Therefore if you put the bung in when warm it will go loose when the rear well fills with rainwater. Consequentially the void will get water in as ours does. Ours is a new boat and the void gets water in with bungs fitted as they're not screw in, just rubber bungs. Asked Humber and PBS and they both said the same.
My Destroyer used to as well - water used to get in under the deck both from the anchor space and from the bilge at the stern. Didn't matter how hard you shoved the bungs in the holes they didn't seal properly and worked loose after a while.

I always assumed it caused no bother and if there was a bung in there then it was intended to get wet inside at some point, so in the end I just left them both out all the time and put the bilge pump on when I first launched. I always worried a bit about whether it would freeze but never had any problem from it.

The Vipermax has a closed anchor locker and the deck drains out through the trunk so no water can sit anywhere, the only access into the hull void is through the sealed deck hatch and the drain bung on the transom. Fortunately the hull void is 100% bone dry - I say fortunately as some of the ply in the under-deck space is not sealed (mainly where it's had holes put through it) so water inside could create a problem but as it's dry it isn't a great concern.
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