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Old 22 May 2015, 11:19   #21
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"You dont have to buy a new boat to get a new kill cord, and if you buy cheap crap what do you expect?"

Obviously as a Yamaha owner you feel Honda is "cheep cr*p"



Well the last piece of cheep cr*p I've just replaced was a genuine Honda part and that's the switch.....not the cord.
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Old 22 May 2015, 11:30   #22
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"You dont have to buy a new boat to get a new kill cord, and if you buy cheap crap what do you expect?"

Obviously as a Yamaha owner you feel Honda is "cheep cr*p"



Well the last piece of cheep cr*p I've just replaced was a genuine Honda part and that's the switch.....not the cord.

I was using your description of what you bought. How am i to know what you purchased, the crystal ball is on back order.
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Old 22 May 2015, 11:48   #23
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My point is that, having owned around 20 boats over the years (I've lost count) I have had to replace the kill switch on at least three of them that I can remember. The cord has never been an issue but the hardware that is used for such a critical application is appalling. I maintain medical equipment for a living and you would NEVER find anything as poor quality as these switches in an application that someone's life could depend on.
I end up buying cheep cr*p because that's what the manufacturers fit and that's what they sell as OEM parts.
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Old 22 May 2015, 15:49   #24
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Last Tango... Did it fail safe though? Seems you have experience of dodgy switches. Did that mean it wouldn't start or it cut out underway or it didn't cut out when pulled?

I suspect only the last one might be thought a failure by many respondents.

Also not clear if someone replaces the curly string every 6 months and never had a failure if that is fine while someone else keeps theirs 30 years and it snaps that is not OK.
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Old 22 May 2015, 15:51   #25
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My point is that, having owned around 20 boats over the years (I've lost count) I have had to replace the kill switch on at least three of them that I can remember. The cord has never been an issue but the hardware that is used for such a critical application is appalling. I maintain medical equipment for a living and you would NEVER find anything as poor quality as these switches in an application that someone's life could depend on.
I end up buying cheep cr*p because that's what the manufacturers fit and that's what they sell as OEM parts.
Some of the aftermarket killswitches are pure shite. I had to change one out last season after it failed at sea. It was an anchor out moment. The bypass switch is good for a quick override but I'd worry about it... kinda.
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Old 22 May 2015, 15:53   #26
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Last Tango... Did it fail safe though?
LOL - mine failed "safe". Drifting onto a rocky shore on a deserted headland!
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Old 22 May 2015, 16:32   #27
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Last one...stepped off the boat with cord attached to me and realised the engine was still running. If it's an outboard then you're looking for the switch to "make" to kill the engine whereas an inboard it's more likely that it's going to "open" to dis, the ignition/injection pump solenoid. I'd suspect that the most likely cause of failure would be high impedance due to corrosion on contacts so and inboard would "fail safe" (not start) and an outboard "fail to kill". Which is the worst option depends on your situation when it fails.
I've got a "missile launch" cover over the bypass switch to discourage the obvious but I'm yet to see how long that withstands the weather.
If I was into arduous sport or the like where there was a high possibility of going over the side I'd duplicate the kill switches so as if either was activated the engine would be "killed". But as you say, some the after market ones are just junk but even the OEM ones are pretty tacky considering what's expected of them. Risk = likelihood of failure X the consequences of failure,
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Old 22 May 2015, 18:12   #28
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Willk I'd suggest its only failing safe if it refuses to start, not kills while underway.

Was under the impression some OBs used break to kill electronic, rather than make to kill?

Duplicate kill switches presumably increases the risk of a false positive too though?
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Old 23 May 2015, 01:33   #29
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Was under the impression some OBs used break to kill electronic, rather than make to kill?

Duplicate kill switches presumably increases the risk of a false positive too though?
Some of them possibly do, more of a generalisation. The switches I've had fail, failed "open" one of them internal & two of them because connector tags on the back of them hadn't been "riveted" on properly and, yes, you have increased the likelihood of a "false positive" but, if they're individually tested before the trip, the chances of them both failing simultaneously if you go over the side is virtually zero.
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Old 23 May 2015, 02:07   #30
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the chances of them both failing simultaneously if you go over the side is virtually zero.
But doesn't that also double the chances of a failure when you least want it, a la willk? I've had 4 boats in 25 years, never had a killcord or killcord switch failure. I regard them as a necessary evil, I do everything I can to keep the boat running, I don't want to introduce multiple failure points.

Just my view
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