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Old 16 November 2006, 14:06   #31
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I looked for those figures - obviously not hard enough!!!

So basically the auto part only would take almost a year to drain a battery - not exactly worth worrying about!!! It's pumping the water that causes the probs - heavy stuff to move!!!
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Old 17 November 2006, 04:21   #32
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As mentioned earlier the current drain on a dry boat is minimal in practice as I have had no problems with mine, the battery trickle charger needs almost no time to top the battery up after long periods of (bilge pump) standby usage.

Perhapsl a 2nd (cheaper type) battery could be used for just the bilge pump activity to save the more expensive and crucial main battery.

Why would there be a build up of water in racked storage which would require a bilge pump and not just drain out of the bung ? A cover would also stop things nesting in the boat and remove the need for a guano pump
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Old 17 November 2006, 13:11   #33
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Originally Posted by codprawn View Post
I looked for those figures - obviously not hard enough!!!
Yeah; didn't come up on Google.


Quote:
So basically the auto part only would take almost a year to drain a battery - not exactly worth worrying about!!! It's pumping the water that causes the probs - heavy stuff to move!!!
Well, sort of. Your battery (assuming standard wet cell) would self-drain in a few months anyway, so you're most likely not going to make a year.

Bottom line is that the auto-check cycling is not going to do much to decrease battery life while idle.

If it *is* running often to pump out water, that's a different matter entirely.

jky
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Old 17 November 2006, 13:14   #34
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Originally Posted by ScottyDog View Post

Why would there be a build up of water in racked storage which would require a bilge pump and not just drain out of the bung ? A cover would also stop things nesting in the boat and remove the need for a guano pump
Leaving the bung out is all that's needed on a boat out of the water - sadly mine is in it!!!
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Old 18 November 2006, 03:58   #35
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allthough pumps when running do use a lot of current the actule time spent working is small so the solor panel does charge it up again. This will be the third year my 8m will be in the water with only a small amount of use and the batteries have not gone flat yet
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Old 18 November 2006, 09:40   #36
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allthough pumps when running do use a lot of current the actule time spent working is small so the solor panel does charge it up again. This will be the third year my 8m will be in the water with only a small amount of use and the batteries have not gone flat yet
Try living in Wales - they keep on about a drought in the South!!!
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Old 26 November 2006, 09:03   #37
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does anybody have a ribcraft with a rule automatic installed.

I have looked at the wiring and can see a fused positive feed from the battery via the switch to the pump.

I cannot however find the live feed which goes to the brown (automatic feed)

would it be possible that this feed could have been spliced off another feed eg engine or something else.

Confused

Tom
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Old 26 November 2006, 14:50   #38
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the computerised rule pumps come with three wires:
Black = negative (or ground)
brown= live feed that runs the auto function.
brown and white striped =live feed for manual operation.

I've just (yesterday) fitted a 110gph pump to a 3 way switch (auto,off manual) the rule rocker type.
The striped brown and white at the pump comes with an orange sticker saying that this is the manual override wire and if not required tape up.

I set mine direct to one battery with the black from the pump straight to the negative of the batttery.

A live feed (positive) from the + battery through a inline fuse to the back of the switch where it goes through a built in fuse. (yes i know two fuses)
The other two wires from the pump (brown and brown/white) go to the other switch spades with the plain brown being auto and the brown/white manual.
This switch i've used you have to hold down the manual.

It seems to work so i'm happy.

I used a 3 core bilge wire to run from the pump through the conduit to the console (ribcraft) then made up a live feed wire from the battery.
I didn't fancy trying to connect into the battery isolator/changeover panel.
Also have an existing float switch operated pump that can be turned off at the console.

One thing i've found with this pump is as its a self contained pump/float unit (sahara) and with the bottom shape of the ribcrafts well, the pump doesn't turn off all the time as the float is lower than the pump end so the float never quite switches off due to the pump not being able to clear all the water.I can't turn it round due to the lead of the pipe so i may sicoflex in a small hard wood wedge to level the pump up???
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