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Old 27 January 2017, 16:38   #31
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How do you ensure that the fair lead is always in a perfect straight line with the deck cleat and the pontoon eye? If its not you will side load the fair lead, possibly causing wear but also putting load through the tubes which seemed to be the thing you were trying to avoid with a cleat?
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Old 27 January 2017, 17:04   #32
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The answer is surely to permanently fit a painter, which is led through a simple split D type guide and tied off on the cleat when not in use, and tied to the pontoon the rest of the time. It's what normal people do. No matter what you add to the tubes in those positions it's going to get caught or tangled at some point on marks, dinghy mainsheet etc, if it's useful enough to guide the bowline. And you do realise on a club boat the diddies will probably still not use the fairlead anyway!
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Old 27 January 2017, 17:51   #33
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The answer is surely to permanently fit a painter, which is led through a simple split D type guide and tied off on the cleat when not in use, and tied to the pontoon the rest of the time. It's what normal people do. No matter what you add to the tubes in those positions it's going to get caught or tangled at some point on marks, dinghy mainsheet etc, if it's useful enough to guide the bowline. And you do realise on a club boat the diddies will probably still not use the fairlead anyway!
Exactly
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Old 27 January 2017, 19:25   #34
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The answer is surely to permanently fit a painter, which is led through a simple split D type guide and tied off on the cleat when not in use, and tied to the pontoon the rest of the time. It's what normal people do. No matter what you add to the tubes in those positions it's going to get caught or tangled at some point on marks, dinghy mainsheet etc, if it's useful enough to guide the bowline. And you do realise on a club boat the diddies will probably still not use the fairlead anyway!
Yep that's exactly what I said initially!
And I totally agree with you about the getting caught at sometime which is why I wanted as little upstand as possible and not a closed handle or cleat that someone would tie off to

I think the thinking is that a permanently installed painter will end up spending most of its life trailing in the water because the crew forget to tie it in when they cast off especially as the bow eye is well below water at rest

However the boats are moored 2 abreast so we'd still have the problem with the outer boat where it came up to the inner boat
Or it would need a painter long enough to reach the pontoon past the first boat which would mean it would also be long enough to reach the prop & we all know how that will end !
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Old 28 January 2017, 06:18   #35
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Yep that's exactly what I said initially!
And I totally agree with you about the getting caught at sometime which is why I wanted as little upstand as possible and not a closed handle or cleat that someone would tie off to
you do realise that someone will still find a way to tie off to whatever you put there, or do something else equally stupid - like tow a dinghy alongside using it as a guide and see if they can get on the plane!
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I think the thinking is that a permanently installed painter will end up spending most of its life trailing in the water because the crew forget to tie it in when they cast off especially as the bow eye is well below water at rest
I'm not convinced. How many people here have a fixed painter and don't intentionally leave it dangling. A floating rope might help them retrieve it if they do (a little forward power and they will find it down the side of the tube).

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However the boats are moored 2 abreast so we'd still have the problem with the outer boat where it came up to the inner boat
Ah, you've changed the requirements!
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Or it would need a painter long enough to reach the pontoon past the first boat which would mean it would also be long enough to reach the prop & we all know how that will end !
Are you sure about that? Say a 6m boat with a 2.3m beam. It only needs 1.5 beams length to reach the pontoon (and enough to tie off). Whilst it isn't right at the bow I think it might just make it. Or if only there was someone at the club who could teach people how to tie a sheet bend - after all salty old sea dogs will tell you that when "rafting" boats the outside one should be tied to the pontoon not the inside boat anyway...

I think given its a club boat your best bet is probably wear patches, and replace them every 2-3 yrs if needed. You'll never train everyone to actually use the fairlead the way you intend anyway, unless you have a very small team of PB crew, in which case you could just train them the normal (some might say right) way!
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Old 28 January 2017, 06:30   #36
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...after all salty old sea dogs will tell you that when "rafting" boats the outside one should be tied to the pontoon not the inside boat anyway...
Pfffft!
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Old 28 January 2017, 06:44   #37
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Bath Matt with suckers on?
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Old 28 January 2017, 08:14   #38
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Poly you clearly understand the whole 'club' scenario, the boats are used buy all & sundry & a lot of the cadet instructors are quite young and inexperienced
You may be right about a couple of wear patches being the safest option
If I fit something that someone disagrees with it will forever be my fault!
Even changing the way the mooring ropes are done is a multi level decision
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Old 28 January 2017, 09:40   #39
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the boats are used buy all & sundry & a lot of the cadet instructors are quite young and inexperienced
As an aside - I met a couple of similar young chaps puzzling over their club outboard. They asked my opinion as to why it was running below par (no power). I looked at the engine and spotted that the prop was rubbing against the gear casing, which had by then worn down quite a bit. I asked if they had taken the prop off recently. They confirmed that they had lost the regular prop recently and were using the spare. Turned out they had lost the thrust washer too

They allowed they'd use the motor until someone "had time to order a spare washer"...
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Old 28 January 2017, 10:33   #40
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Two more solutions

If wear patches are to be used but don't want to get blamed if they don't work use tear aid it's self adhesive doesn't need any profile prep and can be removed and cleaned up as original it can be bought in large patches and not expensive.
Or buy a blue barrel from Solent plastics cut the ends off and a strip down the middle top to bottom to suit tube dia open up and place over tube all edges to have a radius and corners to prevent damage cost about £30 can be taken off and stowed when not in use.if needed two posts could be glued on to stop the rope wandering if required.
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