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Old 21 April 2015, 09:45   #1
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Roll Bar Instalation

Hi there to all.

This is my first post! and as you will figure it out, I'm new to the boating world.

I recently bought myself a 2001 Valiant 520, It looked nice for the years it has and the price was affordable.

I was counting on your expertise in the matter of equipment installation, more precisely roll bar installation. The boat just isn't the same with it...

The installation would be on those 45º slopes that don't have the teak...

My doubt is how do I attach it to the hull? the bar is 3/4" SS double tubing, even with a large base, will screws hold it? the fiberglass must be around 5 to 6mm thick, won't the hull break or be damaged?

Possible solutions, make a hole in the hull and place a back plate in the bar feet? use screws for hallow walls? glue it down?

What is your opinion on this subject?

Regards to all
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Old 21 April 2015, 10:58   #2
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Roll bars are for vehicles, you mean an A-Frame, dont even think of screws. You have to drill through the hull, use high quality stainless steel nuts and bolts, washers and a back plate plus glue and you may need holes for any electrical cables.

Top tip, measure your boat where its going to go very carefully as no boat is symetrical. Even better find a decent fabricator, design your A Frame and with approiruate top and side supports and have it custom made, A-frames are for nav lights, aerial etc, not for mooring lines, and if intend to use for watersports be especially carefull and check design and if its ok to tow from it regarding design and insurance etc.
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Old 21 April 2015, 10:58   #3
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3/4" tube is pretty small, even doubled up. What are you planning to put on it? As far as mounting it, my approach is to try and use existing bolts and avoid drilling holes where possible. For example you could have a cross plate that mounts on the engine mounting bolts and extends across to the width you want? You would then weld the A frame to the cross plate.
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Old 21 April 2015, 11:03   #4
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Post a picture of the frame and the mounts it currently has.
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Old 21 April 2015, 11:30   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RageGlow View Post
Hi there to all.

This is my first post! and as you will figure it out, I'm new to the boating world.

I recently bought myself a 2001 Valiant 520, It looked nice for the years it has and the price was affordable.

I was counting on your expertise in the matter of equipment installation, more precisely roll bar installation. The boat just isn't the same with it...

The installation would be on those 45º slopes that don't have the teak...

My doubt is how do I attach it to the hull? the bar is 3/4" SS double tubing, even with a large base, will screws hold it? the fiberglass must be around 5 to 6mm thick, won't the hull break or be damaged?

Possible solutions, make a hole in the hull and place a back plate in the bar feet? use screws for hallow walls? glue it down?

What is your opinion on this subject?

Regards to all
What are the two stainless steel discs with two bolts in each for ?
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Old 21 April 2015, 11:33   #6
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My old sea rider was the same so I put two 5 mm x 100 mm plates on the bottom of the frame legs and moved the bolts inboard, where the two discs are on your transom.
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Old 21 April 2015, 11:42   #7
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Boris, the A-Frame, (always learning), will be for lights only. Right now the Rib is quite balanced, doesn't really wanders away to any of the sides. I thought of making the frame myself, I have seen quite a few designs and they are always bolted... don't know what's below the fibreglass thou. Looking at it right, I agree with you, the back plate should be the right solution... I just wanted to know if I was exaggerating!


Rokraider, your idea is quite smart! I'll get it on AutoCAD to see if it's functional.
About the picture of the frame, there is no frame yet... still in project. I attached a pic of the stern in the first post thou.


Thanks
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Old 21 April 2015, 11:47   #8
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The disks have a U shaped rod outwards to tow and watersports
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Old 21 April 2015, 12:09   #9
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Here's the other side.
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Old 21 April 2015, 12:53   #10
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I think I'd be adjust the length of the two eye bolts, making the frame to come up at that point, use these to bolt to the transom and then flare out over the tubes - as per the zodiac ones.
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