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Old 16 June 2016, 23:05   #1
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Ribcraft 6.4 towing

I am in my second season with a Ribcraft 5.3, chosen after detailed study of the advice here - for which many thanks to all concerned. It has been great, and the whole family has had a huge amount of fun, but now I want to go bigger and have a new boat built. It will be definitely be another Ribcraft and I am looking at a 6.4 with a Suzuki 175. But that's getting heavy and I really don't want to change cars as well. So I could use some advice from anyone who has been down this road before me.

I have a Volvo V70 diesel estate which will tow up to 1800 kgs. And that is pretty much what a 6.4 on a double axle trailer is said to weigh (boat 975, engine 220, trailer 550) and then there's going to be some fuel in the tank, plus odds and ends. So probably too close to the limit for comfort. But do I need a double axle? If I don't, that's 150 kg saved for a start.

Alternatively, Jason at Ribcraft says they could save some weight by using Nedapan composite for the deck and stringers and a structural foam transom, as used on their specialist commercial boats. In my dinghy racing days, light was always good, but these days solid sounds better and - although I have great faith in the Ribcraft guys - high tech could end up expensive.

Any thoughts?
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Old 17 June 2016, 00:22   #2
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Welcome to Ribnet Curlew. The material is Nidaplast - and it will certainly save weight. It's more difficult to bolt things onto though and this needs to be considered at the time of the design. AFAIK, 1900kg is the most heavy duty axle for this application?

Personally I'd build a standard Ribcraft, lose the V70 and buy a truck...
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Old 17 June 2016, 05:27   #3
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Bigger tow vehicle. You will have the boat long after you change cars. "Don't spoil the ship for a ha'p'orth of car"
That's a healthy sized engine for that boat, if the boat is too light, you'll never keep it in the water.


Sh1t happens
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Old 17 June 2016, 06:15   #4
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As above ditch the Volvo and stick to twin axle trailer as well
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Old 17 June 2016, 06:39   #5
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Are those weights wet?

Trailer can be under 300kg
Gecko Trailers | Bespoke Trailers | Light Weight Bespoke | Boat Trailers | Handmade Trailers | Trailers UK | Trailers Cornwall | Trailers Devon | Quality Trailers | Aluminium Custom Boat Trailers
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Old 17 June 2016, 07:09   #6
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I'm not a lover of twin axle trailers so if a single will carry the weight I'd go that way rather than lighten the boat you can change trailers later if need be.
Twins are numb to move by hand and cost twice as much to maintain
A properly set up single axle well maintained will be better than a marginally maintained twin. The danger is you think "I've got backup/can't afford/don't have time to maintain a twin" so you just use it anyway when you would probably be more concerned about a single and will actually look after it.
Used trailers sell realy well so if in the future you upgrade the car it may not be an expensive upgrade to change the trailer
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Old 17 June 2016, 07:35   #7
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If your looking for a nearly new 1800kg single axle trailer give me a shout!
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Old 17 June 2016, 07:42   #8
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How often do you expect to tow the new boat?

If it's beginning and end of the season then your needs are less demanding than regular trips.

We have Volvo XC60 D5 AWD (2.2t towing capacity). Avon Adventure 620/115hp Outboard on twin axle trailer, lighter than your proposed set up.
You barely notice it behind car.
We have also towed it with Peugeot 508 sw 2.o diesel (1.8t towing capacity) and you notice it much more.
Regardless of 1 or 2 axles a heftier towing vehicle would be my choice.
Whether you buy a hard core 4wd or a "soft roader" like us depends on the balance of every day driving versus how often you will be towing.

Let us know how you get on.
I like your choice of new boat btw
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Old 17 June 2016, 07:56   #9
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i have a ribcraft 6.8 so this may not be much use for you but just incase.

i know fact mine with an sbs 1800kg single axle trailer and full of fuel was 1910kg as i took it to a weight bridge. it was obviously over the legal limit for the trailer thanks to a cock up with the company i bought it from. they put it right though and i now have an sbs 2600kg trailer under it downrated to 2200kg currently, i have not weighed it yet to know what this one is but it should be about 2000kg with 220lts of fuel.

i tow mine with a nissan xtrail rated to 2200kg but i am in the middle of getting a proper 4x4 to do the job as sooner or later the clutch will give up and that is a 1k fix and best put towards an auto me thinks and a second car as i do 70 miles a day to work.

some people on here forget a car is meant for more than just towing a boat and automatically say just get a 4x4 and live with it, that is all well and good if the situaton suits you.

i am EXTREMELY loathe to pay 500 quid for road tax to sit in my driveway 99% of its life but that is the reality of where i am at as i choose not to buy an older bus and don't want the outlay of a low tax band new one.
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Old 17 June 2016, 07:59   #10
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Buy a new tow vehicle just for the boat. Considering you'll be splashing out £30k+ for the new Ribcraft, what's £5k for Discovery TD3.
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Old 17 June 2016, 08:46   #11
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That is what I mean.

A second car you need to factor in insurance which is 450 quid extra for me, everyone will be different of course, plus worst case 500 quid road tax, mot, service etc. Just to move a boat x times a year, might be cheaper leaving it stacked perhaps is the point, only the person can answer.

I can tell you the xtrail tows mine fine, you know it is there but don't labour the engine and no issue. If mines was an auto with 2.2 capacity I would keep it but nissan don't make one.
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Old 17 June 2016, 09:38   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post
Welcome to Ribnet Curlew. The material is Nidaplast - and it will certainly save weight. It's more difficult to bolt things onto though and this needs to be considered at the time of the design. AFAIK, 1900kg is the most heavy duty axle for this application?

Personally I'd build a standard Ribcraft, loose the V70 and buy a truck...
I'd do the same...Id also give the the 6.8 some serious thought....you may find yourself in the same position in the not too distant future. A totally different Hull/Boat and IMO a much better one.
If you want to PM me I'll expand.
Good luck!
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Old 17 June 2016, 09:56   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xk59D View Post
That is what I mean.
I know, and I was just being a little flippant.

I used to tow with a 2001 A4 2.5 TDI quattro avant. At 175,000 miles and 10 years of ownership, it is practically worthless. I paid £300 or so for insurance, and another £260 road-tax on account of it's old-school emissions. It was a great tow-car and hauled my 750kg unbraked trailer with ease. My main car is now a Škoda Fabia 1.6 TDI for the daily work commute.

I've just changed to an A4 Allroad 2.0 TDI quattro to tow, so the old girl will ultimately be going, but I'm still keeping the Škoda, as it's just £20 road-tax, relatively low insurance and will return 55mpg all day long.

It's all swings and round-abouts. What choice do you have? Upgrade to a nearly-new 4x4 and take the hit on road tax, insurance and running costs, and use a smaller more fuel efficient car for the daily commute, or just buy one vehicle to do everything.

The government will probably unveil a new diesel stealth tax in the next few months - so we're all goosed anyway if you drive an oil burner.
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Old 17 June 2016, 10:49   #14
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that is all very true buddy.

unfortunately no matter what you pay through nose for a boat but IF you can get by without the proper 4x4 then i would 100% go that way if you are not towing it a lot.

if you have any tips about second car insurance please pm me! i am all ears.

i am probably about to buy a 2012 pathfinder which is 380 quid insurance, i have already priced a little pug 307 1.6hdi as a second car for work valued at 1k as i literally don't give a hoot about whacking miles on that- £471 insurance as obviously zero no claims on second car but that was a "mirror" NCD they claim....my a$$ it is!

back on topic- i nearly bought a 6.4 ribcraft but i got my 6.8, they are very different boats but i never went out on the 6.4 as owner refused, amazing with spending a LOT of money but wouldn't even fire up the engine as it was winter stored.....idiot.

if you want 6.8 info then PM me what you want to know and i can answer some things, mines is a 2012 with zuke v6 200df on it.
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Old 17 June 2016, 11:07   #15
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Just to throw in an option...If you want a CHEAP... AND capable 4x4 chaps look no further than a Nissan Terrano...I've had a few over time through my hands ...being in the Motor trade and for me they are they never fail to impress!
Sold a dozen or more over the years and never seen them again for anything serious...Big pluss in my book!
I ran one for a year towed mine absolutely no problem!.2 tonnes ....including a couple of runs to Scotland (500m+)
Of course before anyone has a Hissy Fit!... there are better towers out there!...and certainly more luxurious!... and with more Bells and whistles...but IME nothing comes even close in the Bang for Bucks dept!...wth even low mileage well maintained examples available at low cost.
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Old 17 June 2016, 12:04   #16
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Xk59D, I think the other thing about using a big domestic car for 6.5m tow duties is where you are going to launch. Steep, slimy slips are 4x4 territory. BUT you can pay a lot of nice marina slipway fees, and even launch tractors for your insurance and tax cost on a second car.
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Old 17 June 2016, 12:09   #17
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Having owned a good few single, twin and tri-axle trailers, I'd say if you can get away with a single axle....go for it. The big plus is the ease of man-handling it when it's off the car. Add maintenance & weight penalty then, really if you can do without twin axles it'll make life simpler.

I've now got an XC90 that's probably mechanichally much the same as your V70 and it breazes my 6.5m coastline.

Had an ML320 as a tow car. ran it from 70,000 > 80,000 mls in 10 months.....
£3,500 worth of repair bills. Doubt if Ribnet's got enough storage space to list all the things that went wrong......DO NOT TOUCH!!!!!
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Old 17 June 2016, 12:20   #18
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Quote:
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Having owned a good few single, twin and tri-axle trailers, I'd say if you can get away with a single axle....go for it. The big plus is the ease of man-handling it when it's off the car. Add maintenance & weight penalty then, really if you can do without twin axles it'll make life simpler.
Mmmm... Although anyone who has had a wheel bearing fail underway may see life differently! So I guess as Xk59D says it depends if it's moving twice a year or every weekend, and how far a typical tow is etc...
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Old 17 June 2016, 12:30   #19
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Prior to seeing sense I had about half a dozen bearing failures.

Now I just replace them every season.......and that costs half as much with a single axle.
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Old 17 June 2016, 12:41   #20
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Quote:
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Mmmm... Although anyone who has had a wheel bearing fail underway may see life differently! So I guess as Xk59D says it depends if it's moving twice a year or every weekend, and how far a typical tow is etc...
I'd agree...especially if you're ANYWHERE near the limit go double axle ...as I advised Xk59D at the time
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