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Old 08 December 2014, 08:17   #21
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Trouble is the water breaks down the lamination in the ply
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Old 08 December 2014, 08:47   #22
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That is precisely what I am doing. The rib is on land and covered. I have cleared silicon sealant from the unused holes that were accessible, and am working toward moving the engine so I can access the other (poorly) sealed holes. Once this is done I will leave the transom to dry until the spring. The decision will then be made on where to mount the engine and the unused holes will be filled. I am in no hurry to get the boat back on the water so can give it a long time to dry.
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Old 08 December 2014, 09:42   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gareth9702 View Post
That is precisely what I am doing. The rib is on land and covered. I have cleared silicon sealant from the unused holes that were accessible, and am working toward moving the engine so I can access the other (poorly) sealed holes. Once this is done I will leave the transom to dry until the spring. The decision will then be made on where to mount the engine and the unused holes will be filled. I am in no hurry to get the boat back on the water so can give it a long time to dry.
Gareth, I'm sorry to see the state of those bolts and to be honest there's no point in beating about the bush on this; for the bolts to corrode like that, water has got in over a lengthy period and drying out won't make good the internal damage to the (marine?) plywood.

IMHO it's very likely you're looking at a structural repair and I'd be doing exactly as Biffer suggests asap. Then, depending on the initial results, probably using a moisture meter to take some readings at various locations across the transom to determine the extent of the moisture ingress.

The sooner you bite the bullet and do this, the better, because there's nothing to be gained from allowing it to stand in the hope it will 'dry out'.
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Old 08 December 2014, 12:56   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer View Post
Trouble is the water breaks down the lamination in the ply
Does the ply got kind of shrunk? Donīt know the transom of the
Revenger is made, were you can see the delamilation of that plywood.
Whole transom fully covered with GRP?

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Originally Posted by Barrowboy View Post
The sooner you bite the bullet and do this, the better, because there's nothing to be gained from allowing it to stand in the hope it will 'dry out'.
Thatīs absolute true! If the holes, of the bolts are under the water line,
the moisture/ wetness must be gone deep into the plywood.
If they are above, there is a chance to let the transom dry out during
the winter time. May be drill some more holes yust trough the GRP,
to let it dry better.

Lifetime of transom plywood is reduced by getting wet (and dry out)
anyway. Itīs yust a question of time, when a major repair has to
be done, right now, or later.

I would let some professional have a look after your transom. He
must know whatīs the best to do right now
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Old 08 December 2014, 14:03   #25
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Your transom is made up of 2 layers of ply, it has GRP on the outside a couple of layers between the ply and some more on the inside of the transom, the trouble is with the ply not the grp, when the ply gets wet it turns to mush, it may be ok but the bolts look suspect, the easiest way to to find out for sure is to cut a section out of the inside of the transom, if it's dry then that will be the easiest to repair


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Old 08 December 2014, 14:40   #26
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Revenger 23

Biffs right, the other day I core drilled through a transom and it was a dry as a bone so I fitted a bilge pump outlet through the hole and fitted a bilge pump.

You need someone who knows what they are doing to check it out.

When ply goes it just falls to bits
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Old 22 December 2014, 06:33   #27
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hi Gareth, welcome to the Revenger club

we've got a 715, which is basically the same hull as the 23 but was built as a package rather than a custom build, ours is fitted with a Honda 150hp, and is offset to starboard by approx 30mm, so I'd say yours is probably spot on

if you want any info about you rib, then the best option by a long way is to contact Phil Morris, he was the Sales Manager at Revenger before it was sold to Ribeye, he's a fountain of information about Revengers and a top bloke best way to contact him is via the Revenger facetube page:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Reven...0?ref=ts&fref=

let me know if you need anything, more than happy to help

Thanks for this advice. I contacted Phil Morris through Facebook and he came back very quickly with some excellent information. I have now removed the sealant from all the holes in the transom. All the holes except those from which I extracted the rusty lower mounting bolts were completely dry. The moisture in the two damps holes does not extend for more than 25 mm either. Since the boat has never been anti-fouled I doubt that it has sat long enough in the water for any serious quantity of moisture to get into the transom. The transom will now air for a few weeks and will then be re-sealed with fibreglass filler paste when the weather is warmer. My next task is to tidy the wiring and clean the (unbelievable) layer of grease/sand/god-knows-what from inside the two consoles.
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Old 22 December 2014, 11:48   #28
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glad to hear Phil helped you out Gareth, keep us updated with progress, and just keep in mind how good the Revenger will be when you get it sorted, we've been well pleased with ours
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Old 23 December 2014, 03:31   #29
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Originally Posted by gareth9702 View Post
All the holes except those from which I extracted the rusty lower mounting bolts were completely dry. The moisture in the two damps holes does not extend for more than 25 mm either.

The owner thought the same about this one, it came in for a quick fix.
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Old 23 February 2015, 16:03   #30
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Work has progressed slowly but steadily on the Revenger. Most time has been spent collecting parts ready to fit when the weather improves. The most significant job has been to strip and rebuild the trim motor. One spring had rusted solid and the the wire to the bimetallic strip had pulled loose. Some cleaning, soldering, and painting now has the motor clean and functioning.

I have now turned my attention to the wiring and would welcome some advice.

The boat was built with twin engines and each engine had its own battery. It now has a single engine with the two batteries in parallel through an Off-1-All-2 isolator switch. My question concerns the bilge pump. The boat is going on a swinging mooring so I want the bilge pump to be left on. So, should I wire it directly to the deep cycle battery through its own switch? Thanks for your help.
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