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Old 15 October 2009, 08:57   #1
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Replacing Transom

Hi everyone,

I'm quite new to this sort of thing and bought my first inflatable boat about 6 weeks ago from Ebay. It's quite an old Zodiac from (1989/90). I have since found out that the transom is rotten and am in the process of replacing it (a can or worms, I know).

I intend to glue together three sheets of 9mm marine ply to get the required thickness.

What glue should I use?

Some say Cascamite (despite the fact it has a limited life), others say a waterproof PVA will do the job.

I'll try and keep this updated with my progress on restoring this boat if anyone is interested and put some pictures up when I'm not at work

Any help would be much appreciated!

Aj
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Old 15 October 2009, 10:47   #2
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To laminate ply I would not use any Glue. I would use epoxy resin.

But could I ask why not just buy thicker ply in the first place ?


and yes photos are good
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Old 15 October 2009, 11:18   #3
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+1 for epoxy resin. you will be needing a bit of it anyway.
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Old 15 October 2009, 12:01   #4
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And another for Epoxy Resin.

I can't imagine doing it any other way.

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Old 15 October 2009, 12:24   #5
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replacing transom

I would normally bond the ply by scoring the surfaces to be bonded and thenpolyester or epoxy resin with a 450grm chopped strand mat between then clamp or screw to hold repeat for required thickness
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Old 15 October 2009, 15:58   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markb View Post
I would normally bond the ply by scoring the surfaces to be bonded and thenpolyester or epoxy resin with a 450grm chopped strand mat between then clamp or screw to hold repeat for required thickness
I would say there is no need at all for the CSM at all in fact may make a point of weekness. but aye screw and or clamp to keep it all together while it sets.
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Old 15 October 2009, 19:33   #7
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Epoxy Resin it is then. That's great - and such a speedy response. I'm impressed!

I'm using 9mm sheets of marine ply glued together because I could only buy it in 8ft x 4ft sheets from the timber merchants. I didn't fancy a sheet the same size at a thickness of 27mm (for ease of handling as well as cost).

As it happens, three transom templates (I'll draw round the old one) and some proposed new floor panels all fit nicely onto the sheet I bought. Over time, I intend on finishing the new transom and floor panels with the same stain/varnish (preferably before next summer).

I've attached some pictures.
First the boat, second the old transom prior to discovering its rotten condition and, thirdly, the pvc "gutter" I will need to glue the new transom into. This isn't something I'm looking foward to - I'm learning as I go and will probably need some advice on securing it into the base and rubber moulding.

Thank you all for your help so far...
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Old 04 January 2010, 02:27   #8
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Hi Adrian,

I'm about to do a similar job on an old avon s400 that I bought on ebay a while back.

What glue did you use to fix the new transom into the boat?
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Old 04 January 2010, 08:58   #9
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Hi Adrian,

I'm about to do a similar job on an old avon s400 that I bought on ebay a while back.

What glue did you use to fix the new transom into the boat?
The Zodiac ZED models (including Zoom, Bombard and most leisure Zodiac models) use PVC material and require a specific 2-part PVC glue. The Avon S400 is hypalon. Again there is a specific glue available from Polymarine. Key with any type of sponson, seam or transom repair is surface preparation, in addition to a thorough degrease with MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone). To prepare hypalon tubes use toluene or MEK.

Instructions: http://www.allinflatables.com/support/hypalon.html

Adhesive and curer: http://www.polymarine.com/products/p...ools/index.cfm
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Old 04 January 2010, 10:48   #10
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The PVC gluing instructions on the Allinflatable website are very good. Don't discount the importance of low humidity and proper temperature. The glue is hygroscopic and the cured bond strength is definitely affected by exposure. I bought a cheap hygrometer. Don't go by what the weather feels like or the local news report.

It is also a one shot deal when placing glued surfaces. If you have any doubt about how a gutter or seam will fall or layer, glue it in stages. I never overlapped other uncured repairs.

Not a huge deal, but you don't want to make a repair twice.
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