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Old 01 November 2015, 14:35   #31
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Hi billy



Been thinking about this and before you start it may only be bad prep in isolated areas if it were me I would explor the affected areas with A Stanley knife blade scraper if it is pad prep it should just come away fairly easy as you will get under the coating or as you progress you find a pitted surface in which the coating is much harder to remove.the dilemma would then be a pee poor finish on the stainless.i might be wrong but I think you have a ribcraft I would ring them for any feed back they probably sub the stainless work out and had some probs before to which they have a solution worth a call.

What ever you do will be controlled by the original prep and coating if it's powder coat it can hide a very bad prep I do know that as the welds on my seat bases were abismal but after coating nothing seen.

Acetone might work to soften paint too.

Plasticoat spray is very good to apply by hand screw fix stock it if you deside to re-coat.

Not an easy one!



Best of luck cheers

Thanks again Jeff. Some parts just flake if at a touch. I'll try the Stanley approach. J


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Old 01 November 2015, 14:47   #32
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Just googled if it's powder coating, acetone breaks it down as does 98% sulphuric acid & heat will do it around 350 - 450 degrees c if it's just coming off that easy Stanley will be your best mate. sounds like get the lads round few beers blade each job done.
hope it's a uniform prep beneath the coating for you

Cheers
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Old 01 November 2015, 14:56   #33
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Just googled if it's powder coating, acetone breaks it down as does 98% sulphuric acid & heat will do it around 350 - 450 degrees c if it's just coming off that easy Stanley will be your best mate. sounds like get the lads round few beers blade each job done.
hope it's a uniform prep beneath the coating for you

Cheers

Okay mate thanks for going to the trouble appreciated. J


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Old 01 November 2015, 14:56   #34
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Just read this thread imo I wouldn't be messing about with chemicals on the boat accidents aren't to seek go down the Pikey route after all he is Mr Stainless. Do the job correct the 1st time no more worries.
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Old 01 November 2015, 15:08   #35
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Just read this thread imo I wouldn't be messing about with chemicals on the boat accidents aren't to seek go down the Pikey route after all he is Mr Stainless. Do the job correct the 1st time no more worries.

Hear what you're saying Mick. Cheers. B


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Old 01 November 2015, 15:12   #36
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Reading a bit about stainless prep because it's close grained prep should be 50 micron which is grit blast, sounds like billy might get away with scraping/burning off as defo not prepped to 50micron as there's no adhesion
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Old 02 November 2015, 05:24   #37
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Reading a bit about stainless prep because it's close grained prep should be 50 micron which is grit blast, sounds like billy might get away with scraping/burning off as defo not prepped to 50micron as there's no adhesion
He's not prepping, he's removing an existing coating. Grit blasting is aggressive to provide a key for re-coating, which he's not doing. He wants it to look nice & shiny. Grit blasting will leave a rough matte finish.
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Old 02 November 2015, 06:00   #38
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What I am saying Dave is if it's not been preped properly he will get what he wants shiny steel if not he will have a profile finish what he doesn't want so if it's flaking off chances are its shiney or he will have a mix which he doesn't want he won't know until he has a look as I suggested to him.if there is a profile he has no choice but to re-coat as it will rust in the pits over time and look s--t
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Old 02 November 2015, 06:39   #39
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What I am saying Dave is if it's not been preped properly he will get what he wants shiny steel if not he will have a profile finish what he doesn't want so if it's flaking off chances are its shiney or he will have a mix which he doesn't want he won't know until he has a look as I suggested to him.if there is a profile he has no choice but to re-coat as it will rust in the pits over time and look s--t
Ah right! I mis-understood your post, I thought you were suggesting grit blasting to remove the existing paint, my bad

If Billy is going to scrape, he needs to take care & not use ferrous tools like a paint scraper or blade. Hard plastic is the way to go.
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Old 02 November 2015, 06:48   #40
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Once again Dave and Jeff many thanks for taking the trouble to guide me in the proper method.


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