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Old 31 October 2015, 04:47   #21
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Originally Posted by John Kennett View Post
But you didn't answer the actual question though.

Jambo didn't ask "What would you do", he asked how to get the paint off so he could go back to stainless...

Many thanks John


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Old 31 October 2015, 05:00   #22
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Originally Posted by jambo View Post
I was really wanting just to leave as SS and not repaint


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I missed you didn't want to re paint it Billy.
In that case you MAY have more to do than you think Mate!
Specially if you don't want to take off the A-frame! ...Its not the stripping off the old paint which is an easy fix...Nitromorse will soon get the job done without any abrasion.
Use a wooden or plastic scraper to remove the paint when it bubbles up/off the A-frame.
Covering up the Engine Deck and Tubes completely is a must!
Or it'll soon do some some serious damage.
After you've removed the paint it will all depend on the state of the Frame...ie if it was polished originally...or just painted after manufacture.
One of the MAJOR elements of the high cost of SS A-frames IS the polishing!!....which takes a considerable length time and no little skill....AND Can't be done with the Frame in situe.
So all depends on the state of the Stainless once you've got the paint off...which is the easy bit.
If you're lucky it may be pretty much ok with a lot of shine still left...in this case a good dose of elbow grease and some Autosol metal polish will sort it out!
Good luck.
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Old 31 October 2015, 05:37   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus View Post
I missed you didn't want to re paint it Billy.
In that case you MAY have more to do than you think Mate!
Specially if you don't want to take off the A-frame! ...Its not the stripping off the old paint which is an easy fix...Nitromorse will soon get the job done without any abrasion.
Use a wooden or plastic scraper to remove the paint when it bubbles up/off the A-frame.
Covering up the Engine Deck and Tubes completely is a must!
Or it'll soon do some some serious damage.
After you've removed the paint it will all depend on the state of the Frame...ie if it was polished originally...or just painted after manufacture.
One of the MAJOR elements of the high cost of SS A-frames IS the polishing!!....which takes a considerable length time and no little skill....AND Can't be done with the Frame in situe.
So all depends on the state of the Stainless once you've got the paint off...which is the easy bit.
If you're lucky it may be pretty much ok with a lot of shine still left...in this case a good dose of elbow grease and some Autosol metal polish will sort it out!
Good luck.


Thanks Mathew. The bits that already showing seem smith with a bit of shine. I don't think it was keyed that's why the paint is coming of. Cheers


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Old 01 November 2015, 05:55   #24
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Billy, the results will reflect the effort you put in. You could go down the in-situ chemical/mechanical removal route, but I don't think you'd be happy with the results & risk damaging the boat & that nice new shiny engine. If it was me, I would remove the "A" frame, have it bead blasted NOT shot or grit blasted. If you can get it soda blasted as previously mentioned then that's even better. You want the least aggressive method, that will do the job. After that, I would have it electropolished, assuming that it is stainless. I can't get my head around why it was coated in the first place if it's stainless, sacrilege The whole process wont be cheap, but will give the best results imho. You then get an opportunity to re-wire the "A" frame when you re-fit it. Keep you occupied on those long winter Scottish nights

PS, now I'm back off my hols I'll get onto those winches
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Old 01 November 2015, 06:16   #25
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Billy, the results will reflect the effort you put in. You could go down the in-situ chemical/mechanical removal route, but I don't think you'd be happy with the results & risk damaging the boat & that nice new shiny engine. If it was me, I would remove the "A" frame, have it bead blasted NOT shot or grit blasted. If you can get it soda blasted as previously mentioned then that's even better. You want the least aggressive method, that will do the job. After that, I would have it electropolished, assuming that it is stainless. I can't get my head around why it was coated in the first place if it's stainless, sacrilege The whole process wont be cheap, but will give the best results imho. You then get an opportunity to re-wire the "A" frame when you re-fit it. Keep you occupied on those long winter Scottish nights

PS, now I'm back off my hols I'll get onto those winches


Thanks Dave. I think you're right it's a bigger job than first thought. I don't know why they did it as it's just flaking off all over the place makes a very spotty.


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Old 01 November 2015, 12:13   #26
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If its a single pack paint you may find it will soften with a rag soaked in cellulose thinners in which case you can wipe it off with plenty of rags just keep them well wetted with thinner and allow time to soften a patch at a time
Any kind of abrasive will mark the stainless & make it harder to polish back up
Once the paints off the stainless will shine up pretty well with g3 or similar
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Old 01 November 2015, 12:41   #27
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If its a single pack paint you may find it will soften with a rag soaked in cellulose thinners in which case you can wipe it off with plenty of rags just keep them well wetted with thinner and allow time to soften a patch at a time
Any kind of abrasive will mark the stainless & make it harder to polish back up
Once the paints off the stainless will shine up pretty well with g3 or similar

Thanks Ken my northern neighbour. I think your method would be the answer as it does not seem to be keyed properly. Cheers


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Old 01 November 2015, 13:06   #28
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Brake fluid use to make a right mess of car paint work don't know about powder coating? But for me new engine,rubber tubes,flow coat deck and so on I would worry.
A heat gun with the proper fitting for paint stripping might work but be slow
Cheers
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Old 01 November 2015, 13:24   #29
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Brake fluid use to make a right mess of car paint work don't know about powder coating? But for me new engine,rubber tubes,flow coat deck and so on I would worry.
A heat gun with the proper fitting for paint stripping might work but be slow
Cheers

Cheers Jeff hadn't thought of heat gun.


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Old 01 November 2015, 14:08   #30
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Cheers Jeff hadn't thought of heat gun.


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Hi billy

Been thinking about this and before you start it may only be bad prep in isolated areas if it were me I would explor the affected areas with A Stanley knife blade scraper if it is pad prep it should just come away fairly easy as you will get under the coating or as you progress you find a pitted surface in which the coating is much harder to remove.the dilemma would then be a pee poor finish on the stainless.i might be wrong but I think you have a ribcraft I would ring them for any feed back they probably sub the stainless work out and had some probs before to which they have a solution worth a call.
What ever you do will be controlled by the original prep and coating if it's powder coat it can hide a very bad prep I do know that as the welds on my seat bases were abismal but after coating nothing seen.
Acetone might work to soften paint too.
Plasticoat spray is very good to apply by hand screw fix stock it if you deside to re-coat.
Not an easy one!

Best of luck cheers
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