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Old 14 February 2017, 19:16   #1
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Rehab for Zodiac Projet 350

Hello RIB forum!

I'm working on a 2002 Zodiac Projet 350 with 83hp Yamaha jet drive. I know my way around boats but this is my first RIB.

So far I've gotten it running, removed the tube, removed all loose glue-on accessories from the tube, removed and cleaned the bolt ropes and tube surfaces with MEK.

Now it's time to put the two bolt ropes back on with 2 part Polymarine PVC adhesive. I've read the guides at the Polymarine site and done some googling.

#1
I've had AC running in the shed I'm going to apply the adhesive in, but I'm on the coast in Florida and so far it's down to 66* and upper 50% humidity. Is that good enough to cure right?

#2
I'm concerned about the rippling on the PVC skirt around the bolt ropes in the spots where they curve preventing me from getting a good grab on the tube.

Should I expect the adhesive to just hold this down flush and flat like I can easily do with my fingers after letting the first coat sit and get tacky? Or is there something I can do to flatten it out like maybe warm iron it without damaging anything?

Or am I overthinking this and once all of the rest is stuck on it ought to hold just fine?
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Old 15 February 2017, 08:10   #2
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I'm thinking some wood furring strips separated from the adhesive by wax paper, painters taped around the tube and furring strips to press the skirt flat against the hull while it cures.
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Old 15 February 2017, 08:36   #3
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Multiple wipes with MEK are required. The rag should come up "clean" with a little melted plastic residue on it, allowing timing for evaporation between wipes.

Your last wipe should take place about 5-10 min before you start gluing. This is vital, as it will swell the material slightly and open up the coating to allow proper adhesion by the glue.

You need to inflate the tube more. There should be no ripples.

Once the glue touches itself, it cannot be repositioned.

Your temp and humidity are perfect. At those values, your cure time between coats will be approximately 6 to 7 minutes. You will have about 9 to 12 minutes of working time to lay the piece and burnish it.

Do one bolt rope at a time.

Ensure your glue coats are very thin. Excess glue will cause premature failure. excess glue skins over, and traps solvent underneath which doesn't alllow for a complete cure between coats. When the piece is laid, the skin pops, the solvents release, and then the solvent deactivates the glue you just laid down as it tries to escape from under the material.
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Old 15 February 2017, 11:22   #4
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Great glue tips thanks.

The tube will be fully inflated, but the ripples I'm concerned about are the fabric that is being glued To the tube.

Quote:
"Once the glue touches itself, it cannot be repositioned."
So if I understand, it's going to be tacky enough that once I push those two parts together flattening the ripples on the bolt rope's fabric, they are going to stay put..
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Old 15 February 2017, 11:35   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james63 View Post
Great glue tips thanks.

The tube will be fully inflated, but the ripples I'm concerned about are the fabric that is being glued To the tube.



So if I understand, it's going to be tacky enough that once I push those two parts together flattening the ripples on the bolt rope's fabric, they are going to stay put..
Creases can usually be burnished out, but it is preferable to avoid that.

If you touch the glue at the end of the cure, it will be almost completely dry to the touch.

Glued sections that has lightly touched can be jerked apart.

If the pieces have been burnished, and you made a mistake, you can deactivate the glue by applying drops of MEK to the edge as you unpeel it. After that, you can either scrub the glue entirely off with MEK and a rag, or you can wait 5-10 min for the MEK to flash off, then apply one more coat of glue to both surfaces, respect the cure time, and try again.
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Old 15 February 2017, 19:37   #6
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Horrible confession.. I poured the adhesive goop out into two solo cups like I usually do with epoxy resin (always fine for a half hour or so) because those rings make it easy eyeball exact halfings, got a rag to start up with the MEK, turned around, and it had already melted through the cups! ha oops.

In hindsight that's stupidly obvious as it's supposed to do the same to the PVC.... yeah.

So it's back to West Marine tomorrow for more adhesive, and this time some solvent-proof containers.
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Old 15 February 2017, 23:08   #7
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I use a 500ml Pyrex beaker and disposable pipettes to add reactant. Glue doesn't stick to glass, and it's completely non-reactive.

Gluing isn't an exact science, but the less variables you have, the better.
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Old 16 February 2017, 08:15   #8
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I had only bought a 250ml can. How much do you think I need for this?
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Old 16 February 2017, 19:32   #9
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Probably gonna need more so Get a second to have on hand. As Office mentioned do one side at a time. Check your amount used after first coat , if you need to mix more , never wanna run out in the middle of gluing.
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Old 16 February 2017, 20:04   #10
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Quote:
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I had only bought a 250ml can. How much do you think I need for this?
Takes about 2/3 Zodiac can, so about 500 ml

I use a 500 ml beaker, but I usually only mix 250 ml. Extra space prevents spillage during vigorous mixing.
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