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Old 18 April 2005, 16:34   #11
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Town: Principalite d'Chaos
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Mark

Good idea, I could reduce the thickness of the stainless plates a bit if I did that.

Mind you, I'm looking for a Jack plate at the moment as it would be a bolt on job.

Nasher
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Old 14 September 2013, 05:20   #12
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Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Boat name: Red Dog
Make: Porters Renegade
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Engine: 150 HP Yamaha
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Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Fingers crossed, Iíve done a deal and picked up a late 90ís 200HP Suzuki EFI at a good price. Iíll know in the next couple of days. Only trouble is, itís an Ultra long (25inch) shaft and my RIB is built for a long (20-21inch) shaft.
Actually raising the powerhead would help, as my hydraulics are a very tight fit in the bottom of the tapered well behind the transom.

Iíve two options.

I can fill in the cut out in the transom by 4 inches, something Iíve done before to convert a smaller RIB from Short shaft to Long shaft.
This I would do by building up a marine ply sandwich with epoxy to the right thickness, epoxy and fix with long stainless screws into the gap and finish off with Fibreglass all round.
Then fit Stainless plates on either side which overlap the original transom as much as possible. Then use a slightly longer piece of Ali U section on top.

Or I could fit a Manual Jack Plate that the guys on ĎThe Other Forumí are always going on about.
Iíve never had one, so donít know their pros and cons. Plus donít know the cost of an off-the shelf item. Iím presuming if I make one myself, the materials alone will be more than those for raising the transom.

Nasher.
Hi Guys

Firstly apologies for regurgitating a 8 year old post, it may be old but it is very relevant to me.

I am looking at exactly the same challenge, long shaft transom and a XL shaft engine. Spent a few hours yesterday searching the forum and found this post so rather than start a new oneÖÖÖ.well here I am.

A couple of questions the first oneís specifically for Nasher:

Which option did you take, how did it work out; in hindsight would you have done anything different, any advice to someone about to undertake the same exercise?

My initial thoughts were to go for the jack plate option but I am concerned about the steering clearing the transom. Is there such a thing as a guaranteed fit solution or, as I suspect, does this depend on the boat/engine/ steering combo. If so this looks less favourable as all jack plates look to come from the US so no chance of trial fit/exchange if it works out wrong.

This leaves me option two, build up the transom buy about 4 inches. I plan to use marine ply laminated to the correct depth, bolt through the ply with long SS coach bolts into the transom and laminated over. Once done I will have a SS ďUĒ shaped plate to go over the modification going far enough down the transom to cover the full engine mounting bracket. One thing to mention is that the top mounting holes of the engine saddle will have to go through the modified transom. Any thoughts on this approach, any suggestions on the thickness on the SS plate?

I guess that many out there are thinking of suggesting selling one or the other but for the moment lets rule this option out.

All thoughts and suggestions welcomed.

Regards

Andy
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Old 14 September 2013, 07:42   #13
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Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzi DT200EFI, DT9.9
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,147
Sadly I can't find my original full post on how I did it, but this shows the basics.

For Dan Worth - Transom images

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Old 14 September 2013, 09:04   #14
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Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Sadly I can't find my original full post on how I did it, but this shows the basics.

For Dan Worth - Transom images

Nasher
Nasher

Many thanks for the quick reply and the diagram, very useful. Can you tell me,did the top bolts of the engine mounting saddle go through the origional transom or the "added in" bit? From the pics it looks as though they did, assuming this has not caused any problems?

Andy
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