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Old 17 March 2009, 17:54   #61
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Make: RIBCRAFT 5.85
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€ 1,1oo on the Q7

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Old 17 March 2009, 18:00   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trolli View Post

thats the uber cool version !
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Old 17 March 2009, 18:47   #63
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Come on Trolli,your either subtly telling us nothing about the 4 mm plates on purpose,or you missed the question, I've the same boat hence the interest...
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Old 17 March 2009, 18:51   #64
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thats the uber cool version !
The wife last week shoved the hatch up when we were having a look at it with various lurches and what looked like too much force..then a salesmen came over pressed a button and shut it ..the same one she should have used to open it.. it's a barge.
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Old 17 March 2009, 20:23   #65
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My mate has this fitted to his Porsche Cayenne. It is great for normal towing but when he wants to shift something heavy he uses his old Land Rover with a proper hitch.

I never paid much attention to it before but seeing that video it does look very flimsy if there are going to be any sideways loads.
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Old 18 March 2009, 03:00   #66
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Trolli's Alloy Mod

Trollis boat was ordered as long transom he took the boat away and then decided to buy an extra long engine so his alloy is a bxxxe (sorry Trolli)to bring the transom height back upto extra long...
Not a factory approved mod.
The boat is now back with us for adjustment to be extra long without the use of any alloy plates
Enough said
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Old 18 March 2009, 03:16   #67
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Originally Posted by RAZZER View Post
Trollis boat was ordered as long transom he took the boat away and then decided to buy an extra long engine so his alloy is a bxxxe (sorry Trolli)to bring the transom height back upto extra long...
Not a factory approved mod.
The boat is now back with us for adjustment to be extra long without the use of any alloy plates
Enough said
That`s it! THX!
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Old 18 March 2009, 08:26   #68
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Been in talk with several companies about repairing the rib.

Total cost for repair and strengthening is estimated to about 3100-3200 GBP.
This price includes:
- removal and fitting of the engine and A-frame
- removal and fitting of the tubes at the transom-part
- grinding down and building up the transom
- increasing the size of the knees so that they reach higher up on the transom thus making it almost impossible for the transom to flex.


As for the trolli-posts.
I do not see the relevance to this thread. I have a damaged transom, the boat in the photos is supposed to not have a damaged transom...
IMO:
Judging from the photos, the transom/boat was never hit. Seems like the engine was hit sideways and the energy from the contact dispersed in the engine turning at the point where outboard engines are supposed to turn. If the turning motion of the engine had in fact damaged the transom, it would imply that the transom would be weak to forces created from engine turning at high speeds.
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Old 18 March 2009, 09:44   #69
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Total cost for repair and strengthening is estimated to about 3100-3200 GBP. This price includes...increasing the size of the knees...making it almost impossible for the transom to flex
As no-one 'knows' the facts of how all this came about on your boat I guess I'm curious as to why you're paying someone a shed load of money for "strengthening" to make it "almost impossible for the transom to flex". Everything used on a RIB (or any other boat or a car or a plane) flexes, it's just a question of by how much and is it allowed for in the engineering.

The transom will 'flex' if the boat falls off its trailer on the slipway or if the boat is hit up the rear by a cross channel ferry. These are called 'accidents' and are quite likely outside the engineering specification of any RIB, regardless of the manufacturer.

The transom will also 'flex' with (amongst other things) outboard motor torque reversal and such as this will be catered for within the engineering specification.

Why are you assuming that operation of the boat within its design parameters must have cracked the transom and that you therefore have to pay to uplift the engineering specification?
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Old 18 March 2009, 11:05   #70
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I'm inclined to agree. If the transom is repaired back to its orginal state, it shouldn't need additional strengthening (given that the fault is a result of overly keen angle grinding and not poor design/build?). You could also save a bit of money by removing the a-frame and engine yourself (should be cheap to hire an engine hoist/crane) and perhaps carefully removing the flaps of hypalon from around the transom.

Surely for less than 3000 you could bring the RIB back to ribcraft, although I guess its a lot of hassle for you.
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