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Old 11 March 2009, 05:54   #31
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Originally Posted by Rogue Wave View Post
that's why I suggested you rop a few test holes into the transom bear the motor it's the part of the transom most likely to be in contact with water
Imvvho I wouldn't bother with test holes, just get the engine off and attack with JW's angle grinder
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Old 12 March 2009, 10:49   #32
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Small update

Had another company over to look at the boat. They reached almost the same conclusion as the first company with the exception that they thought the job would prove to be even more expensive than the first company.

The place where the tubes are attached to the transom will also have to come off. The crack is going inn under the rubber (see included image).
Is this a difficult job?
Loosening the the rubber and then gluing it back after the transom is fixed?
If someone could point me towards a guide, article, anything, it would be really helpful and greatly appreciated.

I also spoke to the owner for www.fjordrafting.no (they got some "mad" RIBs, Humber/Capelli/Revengers) who took at look at the images. He was not impressed by the transom construction. What he didn't like was that the supporting beams only go half way up the transom. What he would have wanted to see, was for the support beams to go all the way to the top, thus stiffening the transom and leaving it no room to flex.
His first comment was also interesting. He just said, "Ah! A typical transom failure..."
Been in contact with the seller and we are now trying to solve this together. Seller have said that the RIB has never been used in extreme conditions, only for leisure.

PS.
The boat was a little wet when the image was taken. It rained when the person from the company was there to look at it. It's under plastic when not being scrutinized by people
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Old 12 March 2009, 11:28   #33
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It seems there may be more going on that is obvious form the pictures . I would guess that what we see as a fairly simple transom capping exercise , may actually be more akin to a re-build.

I would assume this is only the case if the transome structure has been damaged by water ingress & needs more substantial structural work .

I dont feel the removal of the tube attachement ( & re-fitting) should add a huge amount more cost , but it seems that however the damage has occurred there really is no option than to fix it ( if you are keen to keep the boat ) .

Is there a chance that the estimates you have got are high as they are assuming that the transome has water ingress ? I would be tempted to remove some of the current through transom bolts ( aframe in picture ) to see what things look like & IF needed drill some small pilot holes close to the crack ( 1cm ) to see what comes out & and work down until you get to 'good' core. If all is good at 1cm down this should be covered by any repair needed & this is true the further down you go - so you will never see the holes. ( RogueWave suggestion)

Whatever happens I think the engine wil lneed to come off - this you can do yourself with an Engine lift which you could hire or buy to suit. You can also see through the bolt holes to see the core of the transome.

I am not a boat builder - just someone trying to understand why they are quoting so much money to you to fix.
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Old 12 March 2009, 11:50   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitten View Post
The first is a lump of angle iron bolted through transom and knee then glassed over.
You've been spending too much time with Jonnie Fuller
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Old 12 March 2009, 11:57   #35
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I am not a boat builder - just someone trying to understand why they are quoting so much money to you to fix.
You've sort of answered your own question.

I'd have to say that repairing other peoples shoddy workmanship, is a bit of a pain, as you never know what your going to find until your some way into the job. The estimated cost of 15.000 Nkr seems reasonable to me, afterall the motor has to come off, the tube attachment will need need releasing, then the job needs preparing before you can begin putting it back together, the owner is going to want some form of guarantee so abit of a safety net has to be built in. Then on top of all that, the cost of living is higher than ours, so wages are obviously higher as well!!!
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Old 12 March 2009, 12:08   #36
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Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
You've sort of answered your own question.

I'd have to say that repairing other peoples shoddy workmanship, is a bit of a pain, as you never know what your going to find until your some way into the job. The estimated cost of 15.000 Nkr seems reasonable to me, afterall the motor has to come off, the tube attachment will need need releasing, then the job needs preparing before you can begin putting it back together, the owner is going to want some form of guarantee so abit of a safety net has to be built in. Then on top of all that, the cost of living is higher than ours, so wages are obviously higher as well!!!
Indeed - BUT if its ONLY the capping to replace then to me £1500 seems a hell of alot ! IF its the whole transom core etc - fair enough .

IF they are quoting for taking off motor & storing it etc maybe , but IF its a price of supplying the boat with all that done already its a lot (to me) .

As you can see lots of IFs - mayeb they are working on worst case IFs - hence the price. Either way its got to be fixed - IF its not that bad you would 'hope' the actual cost is a lot cheaper & they dont still charge a lot as the customer has been 'primed to pay that much anyway. - Yes I'm very cynical about these things
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Old 12 March 2009, 12:53   #37
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Hi, we’re in contact with the customer and will advise him directly.

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Dorian/Jason/Charlie...Mark et al.
What is your view? Can you share it with other RC owners. Do we all have something to worry about?
No, if you look at the amount of material and strength around the transom, this is very uncommon.

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If its a 2005 build and only used for leisure purposes then surelly the hull is guaranteed for 5 years from manufacture.
It’s a shame that the seller didn’t bring it to us before shipping abroad, I would have liked to have seen the boat and yes we would have repaired under warranty if it was a defect.
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Old 12 March 2009, 13:10   #38
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No, if you look at the amount of material and strength around the transom, this is very uncommon.
What do you over laminate the transom top with? chopped strand by the look of it.
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Old 12 March 2009, 14:54   #39
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They reached almost the same conclusion as the first company with the exception that they thought the job would prove to be even more expensive than the first company.
Because if it proves to be a structural problem, which I think it is IMHO, there is a fair amount of work in getting to the stiffening knees and re-bonding them, then re-laminating the whole transom. A proper repair for this problem is not simply capping over it with some mat and resin, and hoping it will all go away, It might for a year, but then it will reappear.

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Seller have said that the RIB has never been used in extreme conditions, only for leisure.
That was the case with my boat too, before its transom failed and likewise, the outboard had never hit any obstructions, so I believe what he says could be true

Heres the link to my similar problem

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24589&
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Old 12 March 2009, 18:23   #40
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Hi, weíre in contact with the customer and will advise him directly.



Itís a shame that the seller didnít bring it to us before shipping abroad, I would have liked to have seen the boat and yes we would have repaired under warranty if it was a defect.
Good to see a positive response from the manufacturer,
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