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Old 10 March 2009, 07:08   #21
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Just gone over the boat with the person from the titek.no (they repair boats and such).

He said it looks like the top of the transom was built right, but that they (the factory?) might have done a bit too much "grinding" of the edges before putting on the paint(look at the last image, you can see that the edges are very diagonal), so that the material going over the top of the transom has been severely weakened and at the moment "torn apart". The result is that the top is coming off from the main body of the transom -I hope this direct Norwegian to English translation is understandable...

He estimated the repair costs to around 15.000 Nkr (~1500 GBP).
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Old 10 March 2009, 07:13   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quaoar View Post
I hope this direct Norwegian to English translation is understandable...
Perfectly

Thats a very high price though, you could do it yourself for probably less than 100GBP! The hardest bit for you will probably be taking off and storing the engine which I expect you'll have to do for the repairer anyway!
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Old 10 March 2009, 07:36   #23
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that's what I thought the material cost wil be about 50 pounds over here probaly 100 over there and it is not a difficult job to do yourself, but go for the sellers throat frst!
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Old 10 March 2009, 07:57   #24
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I started this post before the repairer had looked at the boat so now it is academic, but I'm going to post it as it may be of interest.


To decide how much damage there is first you need to know how the thing was put together.
As far as I know there are three main methods of putting a transom together with knees see rough sectioned drawings.
The first is a lump of angle iron bolted through transom and knee then glassed over.
Second is multilayered with the knees glassed to the first transom board with subsiquent boards glassed on top and to the knees.
The third which is the most common is just knees placed against the transom boards and glassed over.
Looking at the photos I would suggest it is the last and by far weakest of the three used here, if that is so then you can see how if the top has cracked and the laminate has pulled from the transom board the knees are only supporting a layer of laminate and not the actual transom. I would suggest that would constitute a serious structural faliure and should be repaired before she goes on the water again.
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Old 10 March 2009, 08:25   #25
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I agree with you 100% kitten Where the damage is evident, can only mean seperation further down, the question is, how far down .. hopefully it wont be that far in this case, since the engine is well within specification.
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Old 10 March 2009, 13:29   #26
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Maybe someone from Ribcraft (Jason et al) can tell you (us) which construction method was used?
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Old 10 March 2009, 16:37   #27
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Going by the last photo and assuming it is the original build, there was never a proper bond of the inner laminating to the top edge of the hull laminate. Not only was there a space before hiding it below the rolled on gel flowcoat, the space was not even properly covered and sealed by the gelcoat. Could even be the space was wide enough that the gel pulled itself back after it was applied!
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Old 10 March 2009, 17:17   #28
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jwalker, that was what I was thinking after taking the pictures, and why I included that last one.
Also been talking with the previous owner (seller) who says he really have never seen that crack earlier and thinks this might have "cracked" under transport - the gel coat that is.
The point here might be that the crack / gap has always been there, but that the gel coat just split open recently. But if there is a gap there which have existed under the gel coat for a while, doesn't that increase the chances of water damaging the frame?
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Old 10 March 2009, 19:05   #29
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Originally Posted by quaoar View Post
jwalker, that was what I was thinking after taking the pictures, and why I included that last one.
Also been talking with the previous owner (seller) who says he really have never seen that crack earlier and thinks this might have "cracked" under transport - the gel coat that is.
The point here might be that the crack / gap has always been there, but that the gel coat just split open recently. But if there is a gap there which have existed under the gel coat for a while, doesn't that increase the chances of water damaging the frame?
You could be lucky if that is the case because the small gaps in the gel will not have been submerged and only caused small leakage. However, and it's a big however, if the crack appeared due to transport something must be flexing - could be the inner ply is rotting.
A wee general note here - salt water has a tendency to prevent wood rotting but fresh water will encourage it. It's common in this part of the country for wooden fishing boats to carry some salt water in the bilges.
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Old 10 March 2009, 21:35   #30
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. But if there is a gap there which have existed under the gel coat for a while, doesn't that increase the chances of water damaging the frame?

that's why I suggested you rop a few test holes into the transom bear the motor it's the part of the transom most likely to be in contact with water
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