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Old 11 July 2011, 12:47   #11
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Kikican
Make: Vipermax 7
Length: 7m +
Engine: F250 / FT9.9 Aux
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 250
I'm a keen flusher (read obsessive) but I do wonder how much good it really does. All the residual heat in the head must dry the channels and bake on the salt (plus other scaling compounds in the water) long before the fresh water finds its way in when the boat out of the water (and after a drive home as in my case). It must also do this each and every time the engine is stopped. Deposits like this generally wont just simply dissolve again once the normal operating temperature is reached (which is often isn't during a flush I would suspect).

Makes the outside stay nice though.

Richard
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Old 11 July 2011, 13:03   #12
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,830
As anchorhandler rightly states it is a problem with corrosion as much as blockage. If it hasn't been serviced and had the anodes checked/replaced then that could be a major concern. I check my anodes every year and by doing this you can also see into the waterways. My boat gets erratic use and lives on a swinging mooring. Other than a slight sludge build up of salty crystal mush there's never been a probelm with blockage or anything for me to worry about in the bits I can see. Age is more of a concern than hours IMV. Get the service history and check the anodes would be my advice if you have any doubts. Even better, pull the t-stat and see what it all looks like inside.
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Old 11 July 2011, 14:02   #13
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Boat name: Kikican
Make: Vipermax 7
Length: 7m +
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 250
Have often wondered whether a half done flush (i.e. stopped before the head has got up to temperature) or a cold flush using the hose port is actually worse than not flushing at all. The internal surfaces would be rewetted and would stay wet with a weak electrolite film (due to dissolving some of the salt deposition) that would have otherwise dried off had the engine been hot.

Also a proper flush takes two beers worth of time before boat trip truely ends and you have to back in to the house....

Richard
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Old 11 July 2011, 17:30   #14
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Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Seahawk 3
Make: Parker 6.3
Length: 6m +
Engine: 1.7 Mercruiser
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 39
Thanks for all your help and opinions on this. The rib in question is a Ribcraft 7.8 which was new in 2008 so they must have gone some to put that number of hours on. Judging by some of the posts having done this number of hours so quick maybe flushing isn't such an issue after all. Would still prefer if it had been done though
I will check out all the service records and hopefully get a yamaha dealer to download the true running hours and associated information from the ecu. I expect having been chartered out to jo public and used by skippers that have no vested interest in the rib that its had a fair beasting
Next question- on the assumption that all the service records add up etc and all is in good order, what do you recon a fair price for this package would be??
thanks in advance
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Old 12 July 2011, 12:19   #15
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Now that's put a slightly different opinion of the hours on it for my money. As you rightly say if the public has had their hands on it chances are it's been thrashed so I'd get the printout before proceeding and see what RPM the hours are mostly at. If it's the top end then rebuilds etc are not likely to be not too far in the future as others have said

Again it all boils down to money and service history. Worth pursuing though!
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