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Old 24 September 2013, 16:17   #11
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I tried Nugents trick of coloured leather restorer.

What a top tip!
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Old 24 September 2013, 16:20   #12
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Originally Posted by A1an View Post
I tried Nugents trick of coloured leather restorer.

What a top tip!
I have used it a few times now, works wonders
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Old 24 September 2013, 16:25   #13
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I have used it a few times now, works wonders
When looking at some of your pictures I thought the tubes looked a bit slippery but the truth is the treated sections are grippier than the untreated parts.
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Old 25 September 2013, 01:35   #14
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When looking at some of your pictures I thought the tubes looked a bit slippery but the truth is the treated sections are grippier than the untreated parts.
I had just applied rib conditioner over the top of it, when photos taken, there after it soaked in a little I buffed it awf

Glad you tried it tho ,
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Old 29 October 2013, 17:06   #15
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Done a bit more New batteries, boxes and cables. New filter and bilge pump. Rewired A Frame with new LED deck light. I also chucked in an Anderson plug into the console for connecting up the Bravo pump, the croc clips are a pain, I would have to keep undoing the battery box. This way seems easier.
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Old 29 October 2013, 17:34   #16
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Looking good I can probably guess but why 3 primer bulbs
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Old 29 October 2013, 17:41   #17
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One bulb takes the fuel to the filter then a bulb for each engine. Don't really need the first one but it was in there, I may change it as I'm waiting for some new fuel hose to arrive.
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Old 27 April 2014, 16:33   #18
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Project Northcraft

Well this thing is almost finished, what a journey!

I've been chasing a dead short for the best part of two weeks, I'd hate to think how many 20A fuses I've blown.

Three separate issues...


Firstly the overheat warning LED and buzzer would come on after a few mins of the IGN being on, it didn't even need to be running. I had come across this before and it turned out to be an IGN barrel, after changing barrel it wasn't that. Ouch! The hunt goes on.

The overheat works by going to earth so my thinking was the circuit had a bad wire/connection somewhere between the sensor and engine, maybe a chaffed wire to earth.... Wrong, no problems with wiring or connectors.

After trying different control boxes it was still there, this pointed to a definate engine fault. Finally traced it to the oil level/overheat module, bloody thing was shorting to earth inside, duff box. Replacement sorted overheat issue.

Next the Dash wiring loom connector was getting warm so maybe a dead short in there was causing a problem, cut the plug off, rejoined wires and the heating disappeared, turns out some tracking was causing the heating.

Finally to hunt down the blowing fuse issue, by now the whole loom and engine wiring had been gone through with a fine tooth comb, to cut a long story short it turned out that the IGN +ve supply to the gauges had been jumping to the mounting bracket of the tilt and trim gauge causing the dead short that was blowing the fuses.

A quick re-jig and I'm back in action!

Happy days.
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Old 27 April 2014, 16:46   #19
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I've spent months looking for a replacement gearbox to replace the one that self detonated, finally found a box on here that had the same internals so I'm in the middle of rebuilding the original casing with the donor internals, I've replaced all bearings and gearbox seals.

I went to see a lad today who dabbles in outboards, he took me into this Aladdins cave of scrap engines, bugger me didn't he not have TWO of the very boxes Ive been hunting for months, one of them is a minter too, the other will do for parts.

All in all its been a good week, the boat is now ready for Easdale but first of all il need to put a few miles on it and get myself familiar with it and my new electronics, il also need to do some fuel runs to find out exactly how much juice it drinks.
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Old 27 April 2014, 17:26   #20
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Looks great glad your sorted, now get your black shadow on and get it wet
Don't forget your camera


Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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