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Old 22 January 2004, 17:53   #11
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Country: UK - England
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Max engine 115hp

The builders plate on mine states max horsepower as 115hp - however mine is an old one, probably from the days when horses were a little smaller.

Duncan
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Old 22 January 2004, 18:41   #12
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Sea-rider

One of the other points to look out for is the wood in the transom, if any of the fittings have leaked water it tends to go soft. The other thing, i have a set of tubes for this boat which have come off an ex MOD boat, the guy decided to get it retubed but these tubes are in good order, i'm going to service them possibly put new valves in if needed and sell them..... Anyone interested?? Any offer over 250. I'll supply a fitting kit and instructions.
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Old 22 January 2004, 19:02   #13
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I'm reconditioning a boat just like the one pictured, and all the advice here sounds just right and don't think I can add anything of value.

I'm in need of some used rub strakes for my boat. If anyone has some please let me know. I would be interested in the entire tube set but the shipping cost would be prohibitive I think (I'm in the US also). Thanks.
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Old 23 January 2004, 02:48   #14
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Re: Max engine 115hp

Quote:
Originally posted by Searider
The builders plate on mine states max horsepower as 115hp -

Duncan
Is that 115sp (shetland ponies) 115HP
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Old 23 January 2004, 04:57   #15
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Re: Sea-rider

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Originally posted by ribraff
One of the other points to look out for is the wood in the transom, if any of the fittings have leaked water it tends to go soft.
That is one of the good points about David Mannings restoration. I think he made a steel jacket for the transom which would have given it a lot of extra strength and help overcome any weekness from the old ply core
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Old 23 January 2004, 05:44   #16
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Re: Re: Sea-rider

Quote:
Originally posted by Rogue Wave
That is one of the good points about David Mannings restoration. I think he made a steel jacket for the transom which would have given it a lot of extra strength and help overcome any weekness from the old ply core
Have just had a new transom put into my boat as the original one had decayed. However this had lasted approximately 25 years and is now as good as (probably better than) new. made up of a sandwich of GRP / plywood / GRP / plywood / GRP.

With my surveyors hat on I would be wary of a transom with steel plates on it as this could just be a cheap fix for an underlying problem. New transom cost me !!! If the plywood is shot, even with steel plates it is still shot. (Not saying that this is what David did though).

Strength is required also in bracing the top of the transom to the floor. Need to check the anchorages in the floor.

Are there any boats out there (other than seariders of course) that have survived for 25 years before needing surgery?

Duncan
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Old 23 January 2004, 08:15   #17
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Quote:
Are there any boats out there (other than seariders of course) that have survived for 25 years before needing surgery?

My P22 and it still doesn't need a new transom

Pete
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Old 23 January 2004, 13:50   #18
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Thanks everyone!

Wow, what a great forum. I thank you all for information. I now know much more about this Rib then I ever though possible.

I have set an appointment to inspect the boat this coming Tuesday. Afterwhich I'll post more photos and I'm sure ask more questions. I'm hoping to buy the boat soon thereafter. Next item will be a trailer.

One last question for this week, if I buy the boat and a trailer, is there a quick way to inflater her before winching her? Is there a 12volt pump? Or should I invest in a foot pump? Of course I'm optomistically thinking the damn thing will hold air! Oh, also, do you think I should even try to inflate her at -10 to -15C?

It's bloody cold here!

Regards,

Scott
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Old 23 January 2004, 15:50   #19
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I don't know if you should inflate in the cold. Can any of the Vikings help out here. BUt in theory the material will contract in the cold so should become more airtight. ASk somebody who runs one locally....Coastguard perhaps.

Foot pump will only Take 10 minutes and It will warm you up/ Bosch (Robert Bosch in the States) do make a 12 volt pump. they used to one bundles in a 12 volt drill pack.

That hull doesn't weigh much you and a buddy could manhandle it quite well (with no ice aboard) so you could sling it on the back of a pickup and get it into a warm shopwhich might help.

the avon has a unique system of a flooding hull. more about that lateer but effectively the boat has two nostrils at the front and a larger vent at the back. Check that there is no ice in these holes. (they may however have been blanked off.) I have looked at the pictures again and the boat doesn't actually look in bad condition you also seem to have all of the Mouldings etc.
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Old 23 January 2004, 16:01   #20
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Thanks RW, you've been more than helpfull.

I understand the floodable hull. I'll look to see if the hulls been shut or if it's open. I think I'd rather it open. Ice needs to move. The only time you have trouble with ice is when you trap it into a confined space and it has not room to run about. Much like my children!

Trust me, living in Boston I've had much experience with frozen bits!
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