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Old 01 June 2009, 18:38   #11
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Something else you might like to consider is trimming in during tight turns as your prop might be trimmed too far out and will lose grip in the corners and start to ventilate.....Second thoughts perhaps this is better left till after you have mastered the straight line stuff

But worth experimenting with anyway
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Old 01 June 2009, 21:04   #12
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As somebody self-taught with no formal qualifications (no such thing around here - I had 1 go in the boat with the previous owner before I bought it so was completely green from day 1) - I know just what you mean about uncertainty and wondering if you are doing the right thing or not.

I think the advice to go for a PB2 is probably a good idea if you can - I've probably got some bad habits but I'm not sure what they are...

In my case I just mucked around with trim and speed until I figured out the best combination, without really knowing what I was doing at first, and a combination of observation of what the boat did, reading stuff on here and talking to other people involved with boats led me to figure out what worked best. I suppose I was fortunate in that there wasn't a lot to run into around here but it also meant there wasn't really anybody to learn from so I made a lot of it up as I went along. Best advice is to take it fairly steady with the throttle until you get the feel of the boat and under what conditions it can start to become unstable - mine is pretty good except with light fuel load at absolute WOT and trimmed out till it hurts, but the first time it did a chine walk wobble at 40kts I crapped myself however as with many things you learn by experience.

Taking off over a wave into a strong headwind and not being sure whether it was going to keep going up or land back in the water was another one of those "learning experiences" that defined the edge of the envelope, as was almost finding out the hard way how quickly a swell can rear up and break as it comes into shallow water, and getting most of the hull out of the water at less than 10 knots going over it.

Trim and its effect on comfort versus speed is something you will learn through experience, in my case it was a while before I discovered how much difference it makes heading into a choppy head sea having spent quite a long time battering my knackers flat on the fuel tank when the wind got up.

I guess the best advice is take it easy, experiment and learn from little mistakes rather than diving in head first and making a big one, now with a couple of hundred hours under my belt I feel quite happy in the way it performs but admit to having scared myself a few times - another fairly sound piece of advice is to generally try and scare yourself in a new way for the first time when you have nobody else in the boat!
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Old 02 June 2009, 02:11   #13
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The basics are trimmed in if you want the best performance from a standing start then trim out as you increase speed.
When heading into the weather/waves keep it trimmed in/bow down so you don't take off as much.
Running with the weather trimmed out so you don't stuff the bow.

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Old 02 June 2009, 02:26   #14
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........ the first time it did a chine walk wobble at 40kts I crapped myself however as with many things you learn by experience.

................another fairly sound piece of advice is to generally try and scare yourself in a new way for the first time when you have nobody else in the boat!
I think I did the first part already - but not the second!

Just seen your address - you're a long way away.

Thanks Phill, useful summary.

I have some experimenting to do but feel I have understood the principal - developing the 'feel' is something I need to be hands on to do now.
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Old 02 June 2009, 03:47   #15
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Originally Posted by BogMonster
"........ the first time it did a chine walk wobble at 40kts I crapped myself.."

I agree. Chine walking is effing scary at high speeds; you feel the boat's about to tumble out of control. It's caused by too much trim when going over an uneven sea. When you're trying out various trim levels be aware of this phenomenon and if it starts to happen reduce speed immediately. That way, the boat will settle back into the water and the wobbling will stop.


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Old 02 June 2009, 11:52   #16
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I think I have done a moment of 'Chine Walking' - fully trimmed at 45 whilst experimenting. I instinctively slowed down, it felt like something akin to a speed wobble on a motorbike, very unstable.

If continuing to chine walk, do you end up swapping ends or stuffing? All of which sound hideous at speed.
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Old 02 June 2009, 20:56   #17
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I think I have done a moment of 'Chine Walking' - fully trimmed at 45 whilst experimenting. I instinctively slowed down, it felt like something akin to a speed wobble on a motorbike, very unstable.

If continuing to chine walk, do you end up swapping ends or stuffing? All of which sound hideous at speed.
That's it. I can't answer the second part as to what happens next as I didn't give it time! It's happened a few times since but doesn't happen in any normal trim/speed range with my 115hp only when trying to get that extra 0.1kt top speed.

I imagine it might be a different story if you fitted the boat's maximum rated 150hp and the laundry bill would probably go up - anybody tried 150hp on a Destroyer 5.8?

GJ, try as I might I couldn't see any evidence of chine walk on those funny paper animals?
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Old 02 June 2009, 21:32   #18
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Old 03 June 2009, 03:46   #19
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Achieving the state of "On Plane" is a bit like reaching orgasm. It's hard to describe exactly, but you'll know when you get there...
So quite hard work, often not getting there and feeling dissatisfied afterwards?

Got it.


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Old 03 June 2009, 04:23   #20
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So quite hard work, often not getting there and feeling dissatisfied afterwards?

Got it.


Your doing something wrong if your feeling dissatisfied after words...
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