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Old 20 February 2015, 14:55   #11
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Yum yum - 1.5 & 2" bends Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByRIB Net1424462088.095086.jpg
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ID:	103001
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Old 20 February 2015, 16:15   #12
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The old school equipment is often far better built than the new stuff Nice score!

I wish I had a pipe bender sometimes. I do have an air over hydraulic tubing bender, with a 6" clr die, to bend 1.75" DOM for roll cages, shock hoops, receiver hitches, and chassis parts. TIG welding on fish mouths is something I struggle with. My best advice is don't drink coffee LOL
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Old 21 February 2015, 03:51   #13
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Yum yum - 1.5 & 2" bends Attachment 103001
What wall thickness is the tube ?
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Old 21 February 2015, 03:58   #14
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Pipe bender!!!

I'm not there now but biffer will know
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Old 21 February 2015, 04:56   #15
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Most pipe is 1.5 mm wall, you can get thicker wall but that's the norm, that pipe bender is brutal it will bend 6 mm wall


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Old 23 February 2015, 00:50   #16
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Pipe bending with multiple bends is an art form, hats off to anyone who can make a proper job of it.
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Old 23 February 2015, 02:35   #17
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Pipe bending with multiple bends is an art form, hats off to anyone who can make a proper job of it.
Actually it is not that hard with some proper equipment and more importantly technique. There are tricks like mark the start of the bend position for each die and know how many degrees your spring back is. One can layout their design on the floor in chalk or crayon, in full scale. A high quality digital degree meter with a clamp is the end all tool to bending anything, especially on multiple planes. Of course knowing how to use a tape measure is necessary. Autocad is good if you know how to use, but for roll cages, tube chassis etc, there is Bend-Tech PRO | Tube, Pipe, and Rod bending software.

Probably the best resource for bending is Pirate4x4, but it is spread out and almost too much info.
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Old 23 February 2015, 03:16   #18
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^^^ I and all the other plumbers/heating guys I have ever worked with, only mark the center of the bend, and have marks on our formers to correspond.
Why would anyone mark the start.......
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Old 23 February 2015, 03:45   #19
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You're both right about measuring and mark. You would mark the start so there is little waste. Not actually the start of the tube but the start of the bend. This happens not on the end of the former like you may think but just inside. A 25 mm former will start the bend 25 mm in. 32 mm will be 32 mm in and so on. Measure twice. Check twice because once you've started there's no going back
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Old 23 February 2015, 08:41   #20
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Actually it is not that hard with some proper equipment.......technique....tricks....start of the bend position for each die.......spring back......design on the floor in chalk or crayon,..... A high quality digital degree meter with a clamp........multiple planes...... Autocad...........Tube, Pipe, and Rod bending software.

Pretty straight forward then & here's me thinking it was an art form😄


.....sh1t happens.......
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