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Old 19 May 2013, 14:16   #11
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Originally Posted by nugent View Post
Perspex can be horrible , I use impact modified genuine ICI products only,
Should of used a blunt drill and put a good clearance hole in it sir, I can send you some makralon if you wish, just give me a size,,, and will post it out,

Or I can do you one but am really busy at the mo, just made 14 today various types done my brain in,

Specially this fecker
I could do with enough to make two (in case I mess up again) @ 1150 x 400mm each, dark grey tint and either 4 / 5mm or whatever you recommend. Happy to collect from you and pay. Could do with knowing how to bend the stuff, I used a hot air gun and bent it over a piece of 4" drainage pipe. Let me know the cost and if it's ok to collect.
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Old 19 May 2013, 15:16   #12
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Hi Nugent, I hope you don't mind if I pick your brain for a moment. I have a 1965 Glastron Sportsman V171 that I restored a couple of years ago and the perepex is complete but opaque. It's got awkward curves on the corners of the screen, I quite fancy having a go at bending it myself. Would the best way forward to make plywood templates and gently heat the Perspex to the shape & let it cool ?
Thanks in advance.
No problem
I use insulation board as its easy to cut, and screw them together, but ply wood would do fine, hot air gun and patience is all it takes to be honest, make curves longer than required and cut afterwards much easier,

You say it's opaque! You would be suprised what will polish up , car mop it I've saved loads over the years , use brasso not car polish , get some brasso and try it on a piece with A rag, nothing ventured nothing gained
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Old 19 May 2013, 15:18   #13
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I could do with enough to make two (in case I mess up again) @ 1150 x 400mm each, dark grey tint and either 4 / 5mm or whatever you recommend. Happy to collect from you and pay. Could do with knowing how to bend the stuff, I used a hot air gun and bent it over a piece of 4" drainage pipe. Let me know the cost and if it's ok to collect.
Will have to check stock we only keep clear in polycarbonate as a rule, 5mm is the way to go, nothing wrong with your method at all, needed bigger holes and a blunt drill, you would of been fine, a cushioned seal behind it prior to tightening it up helps also ,draught excluder type works fine,
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Old 19 May 2013, 15:27   #14
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iff edd to busy i have guy that does it all the time for job just down road from me
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Old 19 May 2013, 15:33   #15
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Thanks for that. It's covered in hairline cracks where it's been bent so I figured better to replace. I built a replacement based on a more modern model using right angle stainless & flat Perspex to get me on the water last year but would like to put it back to original one day so no rush this year as I've got lots of other jobs to do on it !
Thanks again for the advice.
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Old 19 May 2013, 21:19   #16
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So how do you guys heat and bend polycarbonate sheet without getting bubbles from absorbed moisture?

jky
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Old 20 May 2013, 01:22   #17
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So how do you guys heat and bend polycarbonate sheet without getting bubbles from absorbed moisture?

jky
Bring it up to temp gradually it's fine hit it red hot to quick it can bubble and mark, same goes once heated if the radius is tight it does actually make it brittle polycarbonate or not
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Old 20 May 2013, 23:49   #18
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Thanks Nugent. What do you use to heat it? Heat gun?

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