Patch Over A Patch, Good Or Bad ?

jackreno · 15 October 2015, 00:58

My Rib when I bought it had a 1 inch tear, after 3 attempts patching and green slime I got it to stop, tested the 5 inch round patch for almost 2 weeks and no leaks, however it has now started to leak on 2 small areas of patch, should I remove patch and install a larger patch or leave it and put a larger one over the top of patch that is there now, its down good and smooth other than the 2 small leaks.

Just wondering has anyone else done this with success.

jackreno · 15 October 2015, 02:25

To add something to my patch repair I did use the Clifton glue with the accelerator, worked better than the 1 part glue I used the 1st time but it is now leaking again.

Was wondering about this product 3M 08001 SUPER WEATHERSTRIP AND GASKET

ADHESIVE. I have heard is fast drying and holds very well, or is there a better stronger longer term glue than the Clifton.

dave3235 · 15 October 2015, 09:19

Hi all

Firstly i would always remove old.

Secondly always use the correct 2 part glue PVC or 2 part Hypalon glue cleaned with mek or acetone.Cutting corners is pointless 24 hour
Cure time.

Single part glue are for temp jobs.Never heard of the products that's been mentioned for either PVC or HYPALON .

office888 · 15 October 2015, 12:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by jackreno

My Rib when I bought it had a 1 inch tear, after 3 attempts patching and green slime I got it to stop, tested the 5 inch round patch for almost 2 weeks and no leaks, however it has now started to leak on 2 small areas of patch, should I remove patch and install a larger patch or leave it and put a larger one over the top of patch that is there now, its down good and smooth other than the 2 small leaks.

Just wondering has anyone else done this with success.

It sounds like you are suffering from a poor adhesive bond more than anything.

I would do an inside patch, fold the material over itself, then clamp it with blocks and welding clamps overnight. The next day, I would come back and pressure test the inside patch. If it is good, no major leaks (coffee creamer leaks are acceptable), I would put the outside patch on.

jwalker · 15 October 2015, 12:32

If you do this correctly, a single simple patch will be fine, after all, whole boats are built using the glue method.

You need to be sure you have the correct adhesive for the boat fabric. If you cross over the adhesives for hypalon and PVC the bond will not last. Also, the glueing method is different for each material. You can find the glueing techniques for each type of fabric by doing a search on this site. The procedures are not difficult but you have to follow them carefully.

Peel the patch off and start again.

jyasaki · 15 October 2015, 15:39

Nouvarania should be hypalon (as far as I know), so the Clifton adhesive should be OK.

If I were you, I'd remove the old patch (heat gun to soften the old adhesive, being careful to just soften the adhesive, not ignite the material), clean up the repair area, and reglue a new patch. You want a fair amount of overlap I'd go for at least a couple of inches all around if you can miss other seams and such.) Make sure you follow the adhesive's instructions to the letter, including the environment when doing the repair (fairly high temp, low humidity.)

Luck;

jky

office888 · 15 October 2015, 15:46

The suggested minimum coverage is 2" away from the hole in all directions. So if you have a gash, you end up with a pill-shaped patch.

Old glue must be removed. For Hypalon/CSM/CR, I use a dremel with a stone grinding bit.

Hypalon/CSM/CR must be scuffed before gluing. If you use a dremel with a stone grinding bit for glue removal, that satisfies this step as well.

The material must be prep wiped with Toluene to degrease, remove dust, and to swell the material to make it receptive of glue.

The glue must be mixed properly. I agitate with a tongue depressor for about 2-3 minutes, then I let the mixture settle for another 2-3 minutes with a lid on.

The glue must be nearly dry during the layup stage. When contact adhesives are still tacky, that means that the solvents are still evaporating. If you lay up the material early, you trap solvents, which do not allow full curing of the glue.

Most important of all : temp must be between 60-75F, below 65% RH.

jackreno · 15 October 2015, 19:11

Thanks for the replies I do think I did not sand it ruff enough, I ordered this 2 part glue here, heard its vey strong [Apollo Hypalon 2 Part Adhesive 8oz.], also going to get 30 or 40 grit sand paper or disc this time, I was a little worried I would damage the Hypalon with to ruff of sand paper the 1st time, I have now found out that that a ruff surface holds better, also going to make a 6 inch round patch for more coverage and stronger.

To add another problem I had doing the patch the 1st couple times was doing during our very hot summers here in Las Vegas, [110 degrees] had to do it outside, even the glue tacked up in under a minute, this time around it will be a lot cooler.

jeffstevens763@g · 16 October 2015, 07:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by jackreno

Thanks for the replies I do think I did not sand it ruff enough, I ordered this 2 part glue here, heard its vey strong [Apollo Hypalon 2 Part Adhesive 8oz.], also going to get 30 or 40 grit sand paper or disc this time, I was a little worried I would damage the Hypalon with to ruff of sand paper the 1st time, I have now found out that that a ruff surface holds better, also going to make a 6 inch round patch for more coverage and stronger.

To add another problem I had doing the patch the 1st couple times was doing during our very hot summers here in Las Vegas, [110 degrees] had to do it outside, even the glue tacked up in under a minute, this time around it will be a lot cooler.

jack look on poly-marine site PDF downloads for both hypalon & PVC full repair instructions

cheers