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Old 15 March 2004, 03:55   #41
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Ian, a standard tank should be good for 3 hours. My P22 crossed the channel on a standard tank (just) with the previous owner.

Short term anwser has to be a couple of jerry cans just in case. Towsure doing cheap plastic ones which I keep spare fuel in.

http://www.towsure.com/

Pete

Could have done with a P22 yesterday, spent 9 hours at sea in F7 in a rib with no self bailer
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Old 15 March 2004, 04:28   #42
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Re: pac22

Quote:
Originally posted by Paul F
When i was driving one (whilst in forces) on long hauls we had the john wayne saddle bag type tanks to go over the tubes.
Paul how did this work? Were they plumbed in to the engine or did you pump them across? What size were they and did you just hang them over the tube or was there a fixing?

Ian
At WOT with an average load (5-6 people and kit) I get 1NM per Litre, using the ODO on the GPS I fill every 50NM just to be on the safe side (50% reserve). ODO is distance over ground which does not take into account wind / tide etc so sometime I've used more than expected, that when the bambo stick comes into play


On the special ops plug on the side of the console what voltage do you get? My one reads 12v but this might be due to poor contact.
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Old 15 March 2004, 06:34   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pete7
The throttle control box however is cheap and tacky so you should consider changing this for something better.
Pete What did you fit?
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Old 15 March 2004, 09:19   #44
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Big ali and stainless one from Vetus. Brilliant bit of kit, easy to make even very small changes in revs and doesn't slip. They do a side mount version if you are keeping the standard console but I put the top mount version in the middle of a double console.

Spent Sunday out in the Solent (now called the roaring forties after the weather) using a very nice Solent Rib but it had a mercury control box which was awful.

Pete
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Old 15 March 2004, 16:49   #45
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special ops plug

Hi Des
I have not tried the plugs yet, i have to fit a kill cord as part of my insurance, so will go through the electrics then, there is one on the side of the engine box and i know that don't work, cos there are no wires going to it.

Pete
the Vetus tank you fitted did you have any prob with the filler and did you use the origonal one, did you put in a fuel gauge and sender.

Went out Saturday for a play Torbay wasn't to bad, but thought i would have a look, was doing about 28 knts went around the corner and SSSSSHHH******TTT, took off on the first wave and it seamed ages went past before it touched the water again, it was probibly about 3/4 sec enough time for me to look side ways and see a big hole where there should be water and i wish i was stood up, it Fkin hurt.
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Old 15 March 2004, 18:28   #46
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Ian, no I ditched the original one and used the vetus tank kit which works well and has all the pipe fitting you need in one unit.
It was also quite cheap compared to having one made up and its plastic so no corrosion worries providing its securely mounted.

How are you going to fit a kill switch to a mechanical fuel pump ?
Mine doesn't have one but I think the RN one is a solenoid connected to a flap valve which shuts air off from the turbo inlet, but they are not cheap and require a bit of engineering to fit. Best person to speak to would be Cyril at Mermaid but he wasn't enthusiastic about them when we discussed them on the engine course.


Pete
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Old 16 March 2004, 03:46   #47
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kill switch

Ian
I have the original RN kill cord which works surprisingly well. Pete is right there is a flap that closes over the air inlet and stops the engine breathing. I am told that it also closes if the boat is inverted; I havenít tried this because Iím not ****ing stupid . On the opposite side of the console from the fuel filler there should be the sprung loaded kill switch. On my one this operates a solenoid which closes the flat.
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Old 16 March 2004, 04:16   #48
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Hi guys
i have the flap and solinoid fitted to the engine and the spring loaded switch in the little grey box, but none of it works, the only other thing that could be done, is to move the solinoid to the stop lever A LA volvo, then you could have a electrical stop instead of the cable, i realy think i should sort somthing out as i go out on my own mostly.

After i posted the fuel tank question i realised what a t**t i was, there was not a problem with you fitting because you changed your whole consul.
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Old 16 March 2004, 04:30   #49
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Ian
I know the solenoid that operates the flap can go wrong (I had to get a new one) It should read 24v with the kill switch closed. Mermaid does sell this item. What number is your boat?
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Old 16 March 2004, 04:31   #50
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Agreed if they can be fitted they are a good idea, saved the life of one member of ribnet more than once in the past year!

Guys, Any chance of a pic or two of these flap valves ? so I can see whats involved.

Pete
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