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Old 18 September 2004, 21:14   #41
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Ian, if you get stuck for a manual for the stern drive shout and I will photocopy mine for you. I turned my engine cowlings round to face aft and yes they fouled the grab rail so had Portchester engineering chop 4" out and re weld it, you can't see the join. The engine lid needed reinforcing though as its quite thin away from the oringinal holes.

The kill switch is a great idea but what are you going to attach it to. (Mermaid do a soleniod for the fuel injection pump which it could be fitted to).

the steering wheel hydraulic unit is a standard taper so any of the vetus ones will fit and alot cheaper than volvo. Think the standard wheel is 16" which is bigger than most but helps with the high speed turns.

Seb still haven't worked out the fuel to any great accuracy but working out about 1 LPM at the moment.

Roohairy, had Flew sails in Portchester make up a seat before now. Just send them the base and ask Mark to recover it.

Crank shaft oil seal weeping at the moment which is an engine out job

Pete
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Old 18 September 2004, 22:17   #42
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P22

Split my engine cover 4 years ago have a look at the atchment
Phil H.
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Old 18 September 2004, 22:52   #43
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Thanks Pete, but I don't even have the base! Afraid the crank seal is a crank out job as well if it's the same as the Dorset block. I was thinking about using a Vetus Helm pete, any comments? I know it's not 'original' but it's also a lot cheaper. Haven't heard anything negative about them, is there anything special about the Wagner unit that means I should pay the extra for it?
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Old 19 September 2004, 08:36   #44
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Phil.....dont see an attachment!! Any chance of trying again?

Thanks
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Old 19 September 2004, 08:41   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7
helps with the high speed turns.

Pete
And which "high speed" turns would these be?

ROTFLMAO !!!!!!
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Old 20 September 2004, 09:24   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roohairy
Are the UJ's Hardy spicer? Or for that matter are they serviceable, are new spiders and bearings available?
I need a new seat for mine, anyone replaced the seat and got any hints about where to go?
Thanks!
They are hardy spicer and I am heading to bearing services for some for my boat.
Woods in Crediton had a couple of seats about 6 months ago but they are unlikely to know what they are for, so you would either have to visit or send a sketch.
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Old 20 September 2004, 09:42   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roohairy
.............. I was thinking about using a Vetus Helm ...................... is there anything special about the Wagner unit that means I should pay the extra for it?
Roohairy
The reason I put back what was the original pump was that the time taken to fit a new different pump would outweigh the saving, the console has all the right holes in the right places and all I had to do was screw it in.
Another issue to consider if fitting different pump is number of turns to fluid pumped, if the helm pump doesn’t pump enough you will have to turn the steering loads to go lock to lock. If the pump pumps too much the steering will be heavy. . Equally make sure the new pump doesn’t stick out too far, it’s quite a tight console so if the pump sticks out further you might have problems.

Des
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Old 20 September 2004, 10:13   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Austin
...............Can the bearings be changed with it still in the water ?????? as my trailer is poorly and 40 miles away, i will check the outdrive but i need to get to Cardiff for the raceing on the 1st of October.
Ian
If it is the UJ's it’s a leg off job

One quick check is to take out one of the Allan headed screws in the side plate (just above the water line on a calm day)and see what comes out if it is grey oil either your boot has gone or the bottom prop. seal, either way boat out quick and drain and flush the leg before more damage occurs. Des
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Old 21 September 2004, 01:39   #49
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Des, Getting fed up typing this, 3rd time lucky - keep on losing my internet connection.

Can you or anyone tell me how many turns hard over to hard over the standar P22 is, and do you think that this is about right, anyone like to change it?

Do you have anymore info on the people who had the seats Des, don't know them not my part of the world!
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Old 21 September 2004, 21:32   #50
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Uj

Iain,

The U/j is a hardy spicer. These joint repair kits are available from any bearing dealer. The best way is to take the joint in to a auto repair shop ie. the workshop that would rebore your engine etc, and let them do it. They will be able to supply the parts and fit them for about 2 hours labour.

Its possible to do it yourself, but it is a bit troublesome sometimes. They need to get knocked out, then pressed back together. Easier to let the shop do it.

I might have a service exchange one if you need one. Send me a PM.
I suppose you could possibly change the uj with the boat in the water, if you removed the intermediate bearing housing (4 bolts) that should give you access. You would then pull the UJ from the inside, and leave the bellows on. But your bellows maybe full of water - I suppose you would find out soon enough!

The wagner steering realistically isnt much different from any other system, just alot more expensive. Lots of other companies make them, and even the same flow rate so you will still get the same lock to lock . Try Vetus etc.

Good luck!
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Old 21 September 2004, 21:47   #51
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Uj

Iain,

The U/j is a hardy spicer. These joint repair kits are available from any bearing dealer. The best way is to take the joint in to a auto repair shop ie. the workshop that would rebore your engine etc, and let them do it. They will be able to supply the parts and fit them for about 2 hours labour.

Its possible to do it yourself, but it is a bit troublesome sometimes. They need to get knocked out, then pressed back together. Easier to let the shop do it.

I might have a service exchange one if you need one. Send me a PM.
I suppose you could possibly change the uj with the boat in the water, if you removed the intermediate bearing housing (4 bolts) that should give you access. You would then pull the UJ from the inside, and leave the bellows on. But your bellows maybe full of water - I suppose you would find out soon enough!

The wagner steering realistically isnt much different from any other system, just alot more expensive. Lots of other companies make them, and even the same flow rate so you will still get the same lock to lock . Try Vetus etc.

Good luck!
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Old 22 September 2004, 07:40   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roohairy
Des, Getting fed up typing this, 3rd time lucky - keep on losing my internet connection.

Can you or anyone tell me how many turns hard over to hard over the standar P22 is, and do you think that this is about right, anyone like to change it?

Do you have anymore info on the people who had the seats Des, don't know them not my part of the world!

http://www.woods-group.co.uk/ Are the people who had the seats, on steering I think it is somthing like 1 1/2 turns each way, I'll check when on the boat next. Des
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Old 22 September 2004, 17:45   #53
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Managed to damage an electrical component in the console whilst 'fiddling' today and therefore i need to trace the makers.

Its a black box (approx 3"x3") which holds two large fuses which are bolted to a Lucas Marine surpression unit which is to the right of the main fuse box in the console.

The casing says C.A.V. england on it but i cant pull anything up on a web search.

Anyone got any ideas?

Whilst on this subject, what does the surpression unit actually do?

Pete7, what year is your boat? Was looking at your wiring photos earlier and the actual surpression unit looks bigger than mine and is green rather than rusty! The wiring format looks different too. Did the builders vary parts such as these or is it a replacement?

Cheers
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Old 22 September 2004, 20:01   #54
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Des, haven't a clue what the supression unit does and had real fun wiring mine back up correctly. Mine is greeen because I painted it by the way. It does have a fuse but only one and about 30 amps from memory. Boat is 1981 but who knows what the RN or halmatic have done during the various refits these boats have had.

Might be worth finding your local car electrician and getting him to have a look, can't be rocket science its only a charging circuit,

pete
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Old 23 September 2004, 07:32   #55
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Seb
I think the suppression unit is to stop radio interference, the RN always go over the top with this type of thing and I suspect that you could do without it and not notice the difference. Diesels are not noisy from a radio interference point of view when compared to a petrol engine which has HT leads, distributor etc that make lots of RF noise.

CAV are part of Lucas who have a marine division.

Try http://www.fuses.co.uk/acatalog/GEPOWER74.html for the fuses.
Des
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Old 23 September 2004, 07:56   #56
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[QUOTE=Pete7] Ian, if you get stuck for a manual for the stern drive shout and I will photocopy mine for you.

Pete (to the rescue again)
Many thanks, i would like to take you up on the offer of the outdrive information, is there part no for the inner bearings ?????
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Old 23 September 2004, 08:01   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
Ian
If it is the UJ's it’s a leg off job

One quick check is to take out one of the Allan headed screws in the side plate (just above the water line on a calm day)and see what comes out if it is grey oil either your boot has gone or the bottom prop. seal, either way boat out quick and drain and flush the leg before more damage occurs. Des
Des
Sorry, but my outdrive is totaly submersed, so there is no way i can get the plug out to have a look, my trailer is now on the drive, new axels being fitted today, so i will drag the boat out next week.
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Old 23 September 2004, 08:10   #58
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Hi Neville
I realy belive it is only the bearings in the inner caseing have gone, there isn't any water comming through the bearings, so i think the bellows are ok, i have repaired many Volvo " U J 's " so these should not be a problem.
It's just i have never had any experience of these outdrives and have very little information on them.
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Old 23 September 2004, 08:29   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Hodson
Ian I bet this is the cause of the rumble in your leg ( transom bearings.)
Useful part No. for bearings & seals
30020037R (2) Seal
NC53220 (1)
6009-SKF (2)
6011-63SKF (1)

Phil H.
Phil
Sorry to be a pain, but after speaking to the bearing supplier, they are OK with : 30020037r
6009
6011 - 63
but NC 53220 they cannot find any referance to, is this a special/ main dealer only part ?????????.
many thanks
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Old 23 September 2004, 08:51   #60
Seb
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Pete

Bet it was a nightmare rewiring the unit - luckily mine 'appears' to be ok! We'll see when i get an engine though!

Was just curious about the differnce in your wiring units, maybe an earlier or later model, who knows?!

Des

Luckily its not the surpression unit that ive actually damaged which, although you say may not be necessary on the boat, id prefer to keep as its suppost to be there! It looks expensive too!

Was merely wondering what its function was....

Anyway, the fuse box i did damage is a manufacturer add on to the unit i think so will try lucas. Doesnt look to pricey!

Cheers
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