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Old 17 September 2004, 05:40   #21
Seb
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Country: UK - Wales
Make: Humber
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Looks very good des.....maybe itll help encourage me to push through winter and get mine up and running!

Where did you mount a fishfinder and gps? I was trying to work out a nav layout for the console the other day and simply couldnt find enough space!! Only option seemed to mount the gps in a crew position but, as you say, its good to have all controls in one place of command.

Is the engine box alluminium or just part of it? looks harder wearing than the timber and less maintenance involved!

Also, the kill chord wiring runs out of my console but there is no actual switch and lanyard on it - will anyone do or does it have to match the spec of the engine shut down? No engine yet!!

Cheers
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Old 17 September 2004, 05:42   #22
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: 2XS
Make: Halmatic Pacific 24
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Engine: 135hp Honda X2
Join Date: Jan 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
The originals are Silentbloc ME12339 (tel 01283 510510)

Des
Hi Des
Thankyou very much for the part no and contact no, only one problem, these people make the mounts and the minimum order is 50, but they gave me another no ( Robush 01728 748336 ) they have not had any in stock since 1995, but they are trying to find an alternative, they are suposed to be phoneing me back today, will keep you informed.
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Old 17 September 2004, 08:41   #23
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Country: UK - England
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Des

I noticed in one of the photos that your engine air intakes are pointing forward. Mine point aft, which is the original configuration and what do you feel the relative pro's and con's are?

Andy
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Old 17 September 2004, 08:44   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb
Looks very good des.....maybe itll help encourage me to push through winter and get mine up and running!

Where did you mount a fishfinder and gps? I was trying to work out a nav layout for the console the other day and simply couldnt find enough space!! Only option seemed to mount the gps in a crew position but, as you say, its good to have all controls in one place of command.

Is the engine box alluminium or just part of it? looks harder wearing than the timber and less maintenance involved!

Also, the kill chord wiring runs out of my console but there is no actual switch and lanyard on it - will anyone do or does it have to match the spec of the engine shut down? No engine yet!!

Cheers
Seb
I posted another pic at almost the same time as you posted this, take a look. The sides and top are Al chequer plate. I am going to change the top because it is heavy. I intend to cut it in half and hinge out forwards and backwards which should make it easier to use.

The kill cord switch is switching through a relay. If you look at the kill switch on the 2.3 Honda outboard you get an idea of what you need. In fact there is on reason I can see why this would not work and if anything it might be better than the original. Des
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Old 17 September 2004, 08:50   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Cox
Des

I noticed in one of the photos that your engine air intakes are pointing forward. Mine point aft, which is the original configuration and what do you feel the relative pro's and con's are?

Andy
Andy
They are designed to point forwards because they suck into an area which is quite protected by the console and helm. If they pointed backwards any wave coming in over the rear of the boat would have uninterrupted access to the cowls Having said that they are baffled so can take some water.
On most P22 there is a window in the engine cover which is supposed to be over the turbo so you can see if it is on fire, where is your window
Des
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Old 17 September 2004, 09:12   #26
Seb
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I assume that the kill switch wire which comes out of the console is connected up correctly still and then runs into the engine bay where is stops as theres no engine to connect to!

However, what i was really referring to was the actual button that the lanyard attaches to. Ive seen standard buttons in chandlers which look like they will simply connect to my wiring but i was wondering if this will do or if there is a specific button for the job.

Some say magneto, some say coil ignitions but this means nothing to me!!

How does the other end conmect to the engine and actually function?

Re. the console pic, must have been posted at exactly the same time as my question!

Have you got a compass on there and if so, can you see it between the gap?

Also, out of interest, what does the small plaque below the wheel say? Know what the 2 larger ones do.

Engine lid on hinges sounds a good plan!

Cheers
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Old 17 September 2004, 09:34   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb
I assume that the kill switch wire which comes out of the console is connected up correctly still and then runs into the engine bay where is stops as theres no engine to connect to!

However, what i was really referring to was the actual button that the lanyard attaches to. Ive seen standard buttons in chandlers which look like they will simply connect to my wiring but i was wondering if this will do or if there is a specific button for the job.

Some say magneto, some say coil ignitions but this means nothing to me!!

How does the other end conmect to the engine and actually function?

Re. the console pic, must have been posted at exactly the same time as my question!

Have you got a compass on there and if so, can you see it between the gap?

Also, out of interest, what does the small plaque below the wheel say? Know what the 2 larger ones do.

Engine lid on hinges sounds a good plan!

Cheers
I think the switches you are looking at are ‘switch to earth’ switches that earth out the coil, stopping the spark. What you need is just a switch and I think the Honda one I mentioned before will do. It is not taking any current because of the relay so doesn’t have to be heavy duty or anything. The functionality of the Honda switch is just right and comes with a kill cord.

I use the GPS compass and also have a handheld as back up. I find the hand held much better for taking a fix on a point that might be at an angle to the side or behind you.

The small red plaque at the top says ‘ do not exceed 1500 rpm with a prop guard fitted. Not sure of the reason behind this can only presume that it brakes something if you do.

Des
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Old 17 September 2004, 09:39   #28
Seb
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Thanks, will get onto Honda for some MORE bits!!

Looked at the wagner helm pumps earlier and i dont think they couldnt have fitted a more expensive unit if they tried! Do you know where to get the steering wheels for the pump or did yours all come with the boat?

Thanks
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Old 17 September 2004, 09:46   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb
Thanks, will get onto Honda for some MORE bits!!

Looked at the wagner helm pumps earlier and i dont think they couldnt have fitted a more expensive unit if they tried! Do you know where to get the steering wheels for the pump or did yours all come with the boat?

Thanks
Yes
They are expensive and difficult to bleed but good when you get them right. Do them up tight and seal all the threads with thread goo.
The wheel is originally from Volvo, boat jumble £15. Des
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Old 17 September 2004, 09:51   #30
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Hi Des

I think I might turn the lid around the other way The porthole is forward over the fuel pump area so is clearly ass about face! What you say about big waves sneaking up from behind makes a lot of sense to, as there would clearly be some shelter from the console/helmsman.

I do like the cheq. plate and the idea of hinging the lid at both ends but what will you do with the grab handle?

Andy
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