Oily tubes

BogMonster · 04 October 2006, 15:56

I am delighted with the outcome of the Rib Revive and elbow grease combination on my very mucky tubes, before and after photos attached, but I have one little problem which is some soiling around the waterline at the stern. Somebody I was talking to on the weekend told me it was almost certainly some heavy fuel oil from a spill a few years ago, but the Rib Revive doesn't really want to touch it even with leaving it to soak for 10-15 min and then quite hard scrubbing with a pot scourer. It's possible that this is actually stained right into the material, on the other hand it might come off with a LOT of scrubbing but I'm a bit reluctant to use too much enthusiasm on the back end of the toobs because of the weaknesses I have already had problems with and anyway really sustained scrubbing with a rough scourer is going to wear away the top layer of the hypalon if it takes that much.

Would it be ok to try cleaning this off with petrol - I guess hypalon is probably petrol resistant seeing as RIBs mostly have petrol engines? If I did try petrol or some other solvent (maybe gunwash thinners), would that then cause problems with proper glue adhesion when I come to do the full repair/reinforcement job fitting wear patches etc. as I am intending to do in the near future? Or would the hypalon solvent (I got some from Polymarine with the glue) take off all residues from petrol etc?

It is so near to looking clean now I'd like to finish it off properly if I could but I don't want to risk affecting the final repair job, structural integrity is much more important than looks! I guess whatever this muck is, it needs to come off somehow to get the wear patches properly stuck on.

Any thoughts welcome

Ta

Stephen

Jimmy_Beam · 04 October 2006, 16:10

You could try a few different solvents that wont cause the hypalon any problems.

MEK, Toulene, Rubbing Alcohol, MEK would be the best, and it is probably what you have with your repair kit.

Jimmy

Poly · 04 October 2006, 16:37

If I remember correctly JWalker swears by gunwash for cleaning tubes.

BogMonster · 04 October 2006, 18:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polwart

If I remember correctly JWalker swears by gunwash for cleaning tubes.

Got a 10 gallon can of gunwash at work

Just didn't want to slosh anything on that might go "fssshhhhhh" and right through.

The Hypalon solvent I have is the Polymarine P510 that matches their 2 pack glue that I got at the same time, but whether it would be a solvent to heavy oil I don't know - probably unlikely? Can try a little bit I suppose, don't want to slosh too much around as it cost a #kin fortune by the time I got it here about £10 a litre! so I didn't order much more than I needed for the glue.

Deviating slightly, what things SHOULD you keep well away from Hypalon? Battery acid would probably be bad, anything else to avoid.....? Apart from sharp things, obviously

Poly · 04 October 2006, 19:00

detailed list:

http://www.isolatorgloves.com/Chemic...%20Hypalon.doc

this is actually glove compatability - so will include both "permeation" and actual damage to the material.

BogMonster · 04 October 2006, 20:13

Oops - "D - Severe Effect" best not use petrol then....

Thanks, that's a very useful list, will file away for future reference

codprawn · 04 October 2006, 20:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by BogMonster

Oops - "D - Severe Effect" best not use petrol then....

Thanks, that's a very useful list, will file away for future reference

MEK is listed just the same - as is Toluene....

BogMonster · 04 October 2006, 21:48

Ah .... didn't look at those! Either of those soften the surface though don't they, in preparation for gluing, I don't want to do that at this stage... just to clean it. I'll try a little bit in a place where I can put a patch over it if it goes funny.

Ezgoing · 08 October 2006, 20:56

Try bostik thinners?

PeterR · 08 October 2006, 21:11

I was once told not to use anything with silocone in it as you will not be able to stick any adhesive for any repairs later if needed,Hope that helps fpr the future

Stephen-RIB · 08 October 2006, 21:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by no fear

I was once told not to use anything with silocone in it as you will not be able to stick any adhesive for any repairs later if needed,Hope that helps fpr the future

Nah, Silicone is fine. If you are doing a proffesional job you would scuff the area in need of gluing off anyway, leaving no silicone.

For oily tubes I would use Ribshine, for really stubbon bits on hypalon then it is toluene and for pvc it is MEK. But after this I would wash them well and then use some PROtection to keep them weather and element protected.

MikeCC · 09 October 2006, 17:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polwart

detailed list:
http://www.isolatorgloves.com/Chemic...%20Hypalon.doc
this is actually glove compatability - so will include both "permeation" and actual damage to the material.

Marvellous document!

Unfortunately it's not too good for assessing picnic damage as salad dressings, mustard and chooclate syrup are all n/a. However resistance to beer, whiskey and wines is excellent.

jyasaki · 09 October 2006, 17:30

MEK and Toluene (and acetone, to some extent) will dissolve the hypalon material (which is why the stuff is used in adhesives, to promote adhesive penetration into the material.)

But, for a quick wipe, it does work. I have used acetone as a cleaner on my old Achilles SIB(removing road tar and various marine oils and scums), and it worked quite well. Wet a rag with acetone, and wipe/scrub, allow to air dry before re-doing the same spot. Be damn sure you're not smoking while doing it, though.

jky

Stoo · 13 October 2006, 15:21

After years of trying various products and lots of "elbow grease", I had a stroke of brilliance this season. I used some fibreglass cleaner which is mildly abrasive, but the difference was that I used a buffing pad on a cordless drill to replace the grunt work. I cleaned my Hurricane from stem to stern in only a couple of hours... and it was dirty! I have always been reluctant to use any sort of solvents on the tubes in case it affects the hypalon adversely.

Th only downside was that the cleaner contained a wax which left the tubes slippery. I washed them down with a little dish-washing liquid and it removed that finish easily. I believe there are wax-free fibreglass cleaners that migh be better to use.

With the cordless drill, you can do this anywhere you like, whenever you're inspired to do a little "housework"...